I'm still trying to get my windows and locks to work. I've done everything that this site has suggested, including replacing the driver's door module. Here is the list of codes for my car. What are they?

A6 SCM no comm
40 BCM B0605H
BO-RFA U1255H
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
60IPC B0521H
AO LDCM no comm
28 TCS C1236H
C1255H
38RDT C1790H
58SDM U1096H
99HVAC U1160HC
A1RDCM no comm

These codes probably have never been cleared since new,so some of them may be a non issue. I do know that LDCM and RDCM refer to the door modules.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

You need one of the Bills to step in. Curlee or Dearborn or BlackZ06. These guys are the shiznit fo shizzle!

this may help you re-establish communications

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...communications

 

Let's take this one step at a time ......

The three "critical" issues are that the Left and Right Door Control Modules (LDCM and RDCM) snd your Seat Control Module (SCM) are reporting NO COMM. This means the computers are either dead ... or cannot communicate on the communication network. For three to all fail at once is unlikely.

Let's make sure the computers have power ... check the following fuses in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block ....

Fuse 30 (10 Amp)
Fuse 31 (25 Amp)
Fuse 33 (10 Amp)
Fuse 34 (25 Amp)
Fuse 4 (10 Amp)
Circuit Breaker 35 (20 Amp)

Once you have checked those let's look for the most likely problem .... when you open a door, notice that there is a rubber "accordian" tube that carries wiring from the body of the car into the doors. The ends of the rubber tube can be worked free at each end. You need to CAREFULLY inspect all the wires in those tubes. What you are looking for is the colored insulation on one or more wires having been chafed or worn off so the bare metal wire is exposed. Look especially closely where the wires actually enter the door and enter the body work, that is a common place for them to chafe.

Also, at some point, go ahead and DELETE all of the codes in all of the computers. Since we don't know how old they are, let's see what comes back, if any.

Let us know what you find inspecting the wires.

 

All the fuses were OK. The wiring in the door accordian seal had no bare or disconnected wires.
What would you suggest next?

 

Most are historical, clear and see what returns.

 

Ok, I cleared all codes from the DIC. All returned (or did not cancel), except two. Codes 60IPC- B0521H and 40BCM- B0605 cleared.

 

Have you checked all the ground locations to make sure the wires are tight?

Check the wiring under the battery to make sure your battery has not leaked acid and eaten some wires up.

The No Comm issues are a problem that need to be addressed as they may eliminate some of the other issues.

BO-RFA U1255H = Class 2 Data Link Malfunction. Basically this is set when the parameters are not read w/in 5 secs. Serial communications has been lost with a module.
U1096 = loss of comms with IPC (instr panel cluster)
U1064 = loss of comms with BCM (body control module)
U1016 = loss of comms with PCM (powertrain contr mod)

So, you need to get the big NO COMM stuff figured out first as they others may go away.

28 TCS C1236 - the EBCM monitors the voltage level available for system operation. A low voltage condition prevents the system from operating properly.
28 TCS C1255 - id's a malfunction with the EBCM.

I have to ask this: How old is your battery? Go get a new one and let's see if it fixes it. If not then take it back. Poor man's way of troubleshooting but it is sometimes effective.

??? what has changed with the car recently? Did this start after an install of some sort?

 

Also
99 HVAC U1160 = loss of comms with DDM (Driver Door Module).

38 RDT C1790 - can't find that in my book (2001).
RTD = Real Time Dampening.

 

I've checked the ground cluster on the left "A" pillar. They were OK. I do notice a slight hesitation in starting. The car has sat for several weeks while I tried to correct the window problem. I do have a trickle charge hooked up. Tomorrow I will check the battery for leaks and voltage. The 38RDT - C1790H is only cleared by 100 consecutive ignition cycles according to the service manual. My switch does work OK and I have never received the "Service Ride Control" message. I can feel the shocks changing as they should. I want to thank you for your help. I hope we can resolve this problem.

 

Did we ever figure this out? I just changed my blower motor control module and now im getting a cluster of other BS codes...No comm to the SCM the RDCM and LDCM...this is BS and im getting tried of diagnosing one code and fixing it, just to have 3 more even more major codes pop up...very frustrating...

 

There are TWO small thin wiring connectors to the LEFT of the Body Control Module. They are the STARR Connectors for the Serial Buss that all the modules communicate through. Examine each connector. There is a shorting buss connector on top of each connector that plugs into the main connector body. Disconnect the top of the connector and examine the male and female pins. They should be clean. Reinstall the shorting connector into the connector and try to clear the codes again. Make sure the caps are seated firmly into the connector.

If the connector shorting isnt properly connected, it can cause a NO COMMs issue.


BC

 

Hey Bill,

Thanks for the help...i started tearoing the car apart and testing everything i could possibly think of. I found it highly suspicious that all three modules had no comm (when they worked fine previously) and it just so happens all three modules were on the same star connector. I pulled the bus connector at the end of each and even switched them thinking it might be the problem but no dice. then i checked te continuity from the star connector to each of the modules...all three were good...this left one thing for me to check...the fourth wire in the star connector. i pulled the schematics and realized that both stars have the same wire (purple) and that they "splice" together somewhere between the star connectors and the IP...sure enough the purple wire going to one of the star connectors worked, but the other didnt. Somewhere between the splice and the start connector, the wire lost continuity...

All is well now and the car is back together...just another saturday, chillin with the vette...