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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 02:26 AM
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Default Head/Cam Build...

Ok guys, need the forums help on this one. Finally saved up for the head/cam build and have spoken with my tuner for a streetable build for my 1998 A4.

So far I have the P&P LS6 heads and a 224R cam. The heads are built with Comp 918's so springs are covered. I know I need the center-bolt valve covers as I curently have the perimeter bolt covers. What else am I going to need? I'm looking for a COMPREHENSIVE list with all I need.

Car already has:

LG Streets
Ti Cat-back
Underdrive pulley
K&N intake
ZO6 suspension (shocks, sways, etc)
Tune
Currently at ~ 330rwhp

So far I have figured on the following:

LS6 ported oil pump
Full gasket kit
LS6 intake
Lifters (Caddy race lifters?)
Pushrods (length?)
LS2 timing chain
ARP damper bolt
ARP head bolts
Re-tune
Hoping for ~ 400rwhp

Anything else? What am I missing? Not looking to break the bank or dig too deeply into the reserve I've factored into the job but don't want to start cuting corners or nickel-n-diming at this stage. Definitely don't want to run into any surprises will the motor is apart. Help me out guys...thanks in advance!

Last edited by Bounty; Jul 9, 2008 at 02:53 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 06:00 AM
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What compression and head gaskets?

For starters

Adjustable pushrod to measure for pushrods
Yella Terra rockers (optional but better valve train geometry if set up correctly)
Adjustable timing set and degree kit to set up cam
Redline Assembly Lube
Cam retainer plate (may be required depending on wear of original, noting original is no longer available)
Extra oil pump o-rings
Water pump (depending on miles on original)
New coolant tubes on heads (to fit the LS6, you need the newer front coolant cross-over and two rear block-offs)
2004 Valley Cover (simplifies PCV system and eliminates PCV valve)
2004 valve covers (set up for new valley cover)
ARP Assembly Lube
A good procedure
Tool to install front pulley (make one)
ARP cam bolts
Fresh loctite
Fresh high temp sensor safe RTV
Thread chasers (not taps)
New coolant and distilled water
Fresh oil & filter


Don't remove pulley or install per ls1howto.com

Last edited by vettenuts; Jul 9, 2008 at 07:34 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:59 AM
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^^ Listen to him
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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I find this one interesting as I have the same car with the same mods (sans the underdrive pulley) and am at 335 rwhp. I'm looking forward to reading everyone's take on the OP's goal being met - 400 rwhp.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
What compression and head gaskets?

For starters

Adjustable pushrod to measure for pushrods
Yella Terra rockers (optional but better valve train geometry if set up correctly)
Adjustable timing set and degree kit to set up cam
Redline Assembly Lube
Cam retainer plate (may be required depending on wear of original, noting original is no longer available)
Extra oil pump o-rings
Water pump (depending on miles on original)
New coolant tubes on heads (to fit the LS6, you need the newer front coolant cross-over and two rear block-offs)
2004 Valley Cover (simplifies PCV system and eliminates PCV valve)
2004 valve covers (set up for new valley cover)
ARP Assembly Lube
A good procedure
Tool to install front pulley (make one)
ARP cam bolts
Fresh loctite
Fresh high temp sensor safe RTV
Thread chasers (not taps)
New coolant and distilled water
Fresh oil & filter


Don't remove pulley or install per ls1howto.com
Thanks for the awesome reply....exactly what I asked for! I should, however, been a bit more clear. I will not be doing the work. My tuner will be handling the install. I was more curious towards what additional parts I need to buy so I can drop it all off at once.

Working from your list I need to add:

Water pump
ARP cam bolts
Cam retainer plate
2004 valve covers & valley plate
Coolant tubes
Redline Water Wetter

As for the lifters, what kind should I get, where can I get them, and what should I ask for? Anything else I'm missing? All assembly lubes and gaskets and shop materials will be covered by the tuner.

As for the heads themselves they are the Texas Speed P&P LS6 heads found here: http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=649&catid=20 . I'm not milling them or playing with head gaskets to adjust compression. I plan to bolt them on as-is and go....
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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Remember to only use only non scratching tools on deck surface . I used a can of Permatex gasket remover, PN 80646, to remove the head gasket material and the carbon on of the tops of the pistons. Worked great. I used a sharp plastic kitchen tool to scrape everything off. Then nonabrasive scotchbrite for a final cleaning. Try to keep everything as clean as possible. When you are away from the engine, tape paper towels over all the openings to stop any loose debris from falling in.


Keep posting any questions because there are plenty of knowledgeable people here that have done this numerous times.

Mike V

Last edited by MikeV; Jul 9, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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I would use ARP Head studs. They worked FANTASTIC for me!! I would also pin the crank while your in that area.

BC
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Bounty
Thanks for the awesome reply....exactly what I asked for! I should, however, been a bit more clear. I will not be doing the work. My tuner will be handling the install. I was more curious towards what additional parts I need to buy so I can drop it all off at once.

Working from your list I need to add:

Water pump
ARP cam bolts
Cam retainer plate
2004 valve covers & valley plate
Coolant tubes
Redline Water Wetter

As for the lifters, what kind should I get, where can I get them, and what should I ask for? Anything else I'm missing? All assembly lubes and gaskets and shop materials will be covered by the tuner.

As for the heads themselves they are the Texas Speed P&P LS6 heads found here: http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=649&catid=20 . I'm not milling them or playing with head gaskets to adjust compression. I plan to bolt them on as-is and go....

You will be fine with the LS1 replacement lifters. They are the same ones that come in the LS7 IIRC. I have these in my car and when it hits the dyno it should put down 650-700 RWHP so you will be fine
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bounty

Working from your list I need to add:

Water pump
ARP cam bolts
Cam retainer plate
2004 valve covers & valley plate
Coolant tubes
Redline Water Wetter
The water pump is a preventative maintenance item, if you have a lot of miles it will be off the car and a good time to install. Cam retainer plate is only needed if your original is worn. If you do get a new one, then the bolts also change along with the installation torque values. The original plate is no longer available. Coolant tubes you definitely need.

Last edited by vettenuts; Jul 9, 2008 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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Lot of guys go to the expense of doing a H/C install, and wonder why they only get 375 RWHP. A few details can make a big difference. Those TSP heads don't even list the combustion chamber size. You should make sure to know this stuff, 'cause you may need the info at a later time. LS engines like compression, and about 11-1 will run on 91 octane OK with tuning, and give you better mileage,too. Your cam is a standard size OTS grind that probably doesn't optimize your SCR. Of course, with a standard geared/convertered A/T, you are really limiting your possibilities, as well. Some of the above advice is overkill, but basically sound. You don't need fancy headbolts, GMs are fine, as are their MLS gaskets. Be careful with your stock header bolts. If you've previously installed headers, and then do the H/C, they may be a little worn, and damage your new heads. Personally, I wouldn't go to the expense of a H/C (especially if paying someone else to do the wrenching) for only about 50 HP.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
Lot of guys go to the expense of doing a H/C install, and wonder why they only get 375 RWHP. A few details can make a big difference. Those TSP heads don't even list the combustion chamber size. You should make sure to know this stuff, 'cause you may need the info at a later time. LS engines like compression, and about 11-1 will run on 91 octane OK with tuning, and give you better mileage,too. Your cam is a standard size OTS grind that probably doesn't optimize your SCR. Of course, with a standard geared/convertered A/T, you are really limiting your possibilities, as well. Some of the above advice is overkill, but basically sound. You don't need fancy headbolts, GMs are fine, as are their MLS gaskets. Be careful with your stock header bolts. If you've previously installed headers, and then do the H/C, they may be a little worn, and damage your new heads. Personally, I wouldn't go to the expense of a H/C (especially if paying someone else to do the wrenching) for only about 50 HP.
Zee, thanks for the objective view on the topic and the advice. I went with this combo on the tuners recommendation as a completely streetable combo for a stock or very low stall converter (which is a must for my driving preference). I am open to other head/cam combos with similar characteristics...any suggestions?

My end goal is about 400 rwhp so I'm not necessarily looking for all out performance but a nice, usable powerband for the street with a sleeper to mild lope. I am not necessarily averse to upping the CR through milling/gaskets and I went with new Stage 8 header bolts when the LG's were installed 6 months ago. We did plan to go with the ARP bolts over studs and the GMPP MLS gaskets. What other combinations should I at least take a look at before committing to this one?
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bounty
Zee, thanks for the objective view on the topic and the advice. I went with this combo on the tuners recommendation as a completely streetable combo for a stock or very low stall converter (which is a must for my driving preference). I am open to other head/cam combos with similar characteristics...any suggestions?

My end goal is about 400 rwhp so I'm not necessarily looking for all out performance but a nice, usable powerband for the street with a sleeper to mild lope. I am not necessarily averse to upping the CR through milling/gaskets and I went with new Stage 8 header bolts when the LG's were installed 6 months ago. We did plan to go with the ARP bolts over studs and the GMPP MLS gaskets. What other combinations should I at least take a look at before committing to this one?


So......, do you still have the stock gears/converter? If so, improving this area will probably be as productive as adding 40-50 HP. If you have something like 2.73s, especially. I'm not an automatic guy, but from everything I've read, the converter makes a huge difference.
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Old Jul 10, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
So......, do you still have the stock gears/converter? If so, improving this area will probably be as productive as adding 40-50 HP. If you have something like 2.73s, especially. I'm not an automatic guy, but from everything I've read, the converter makes a huge difference.
Yup, still handcuffed by the stock converter and 2.73's. Plans are for a very mild 2200 stall converter and 3.15's. Both are exceptionally mild, I know....but within my tolerances for a what is basically a daily driver (50 to 100 miles weekly).

Do you have a suggested head/cam combo for my needs I should look into?
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Bounty
Yup, still handcuffed by the stock converter and 2.73's. Plans are for a very mild 2200 stall converter and 3.15's. Both are exceptionally mild, I know....but within my tolerances for a what is basically a daily driver (50 to 100 miles weekly).

Do you have a suggested head/cam combo for my needs I should look into?
I would step up to 3.42s. Changing the gears will make such a big difference in an A4. I would probably do this first. Big bang for the buck. Then since you already have the air intake and exhaust done, the next step is a cam or heads/cam, or heads/Cam/FAST intake. You will get a lot of different suggestions here but based on your posts it sounds like you don't want to go too extreme. A 224/224 or 224/230 on a 114 LSA should be a good range for a street car. For the street/drivability it helps to keep the intake duration in the 220-228 range and will also keep you from losing too much power down low (another reason for the gear change). AFR heads will cost twice as much but will provide more power in the midrange plus if you ever plan to sell the car having AFR heads will help. You should bump the compression up based on the octane available so you don't get knock issues. Then comes the ported intake. The research I have done says this combo is a proven 450+ rwhp. Just one opinion...keep researching.
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