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Am close to pulling the trigger on a stall and cam. I am interested in keeping the car very streetable and would like to sacrifice as little as possible in gas mileage. The cam I am looking at is a 224 230 580/590 114 lsa with a stall 2800 or 3000. Any thoughts on the brand stall and size would be appreciated. Pro Torque, Viligante, Yank, etc. Am I going to need a tranny cooler? Thanks!!!
From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
I'd go Yank 3200, only because that's what I have.
Seriously though, that's probably a good choice with that cam, since it's going to start making power in the 3k RPM range.
I've been running my 3200 without a cooler and even in all this 90's+ heat it's yet to get above the coolant temp. I haven't pushed it that hard either, and a cooler is definately on my short list of mods to add in the future.
Am close to pulling the trigger on a stall and cam. I am interested in keeping the car very streetable and would like to sacrifice as little as possible in gas mileage. The cam I am looking at is a 224 230 580/590 114 lsa with a stall 2800 or 3000. Any thoughts on the brand stall and size would be appreciated. Pro Torque, Viligante, Yank, etc. Am I going to need a tranny cooler? Thanks!!!
I have a YANK 3200 in mine with 639 RWHP and it is good! See Sig for more info
I could actually live with a YANK 2800!
So for your set-up I'd suggest nothing bigger than a 3200 but my recomendation is a 2800 stall because it will still give you room to grow
I added a Yank 2800 when I put 3:42 gears in. This is the only setup that I have experience with but, I'm quite happy with it. It definitely can snap your head. I lost 2 - 3 mpg afterwards, but like I said, I changed the gears too. I am also looking at installing a H/C setup. My tuner told me that when adding H/C to an auto it is better to have a stall converter. He said ideally in the range of 2800 - 3200. Unfortunately, I don't recall why. :o
I am also searching for the relationship between the RPM of the stall to the desired shift RPM's (up and down) when tuning the transmission. If there is a relationship?
Am close to pulling the trigger on a stall and cam. I am interested in keeping the car very streetable and would like to sacrifice as little as possible in gas mileage. The cam I am looking at is a 224 230 580/590 114 lsa with a stall 2800 or 3000. Any thoughts on the brand stall and size would be appreciated. Pro Torque, Viligante, Yank, etc. Am I going to need a tranny cooler? Thanks!!!
Not enough info, what axle ratio do you have?
What are your future mod plans?
Yes you will need a cooler and a trans tune.
Not all converters are created equal when it comes to stall/torque ratio.
Yank SS3200 or Vig 2800 (stalls 400rpm higher then advertised) are both great converters. I would definitely get a tranny cooler. You'll knock off at least .3 off your 1/4 times.
I think Yank is probably the best converter out there. I believe Yank has a 3 year warranty on thier converters which, I believe, is the best in the industry. Since they know that folks are putting big power behind (or is that in front? ) of these converters that warranty speaks volumes about the quality of thier product.
I'd go Yank 3200, only because that's what I have.
Seriously though, that's probably a good choice with that cam, since it's going to start making power in the 3k RPM range.
I've been running my 3200 without a cooler and even in all this 90's+ heat it's yet to get above the coolant temp. I haven't pushed it that hard either, and a cooler is definately on my short list of mods to add in the future.
I would definitely put the cooler in sooner than later....transmissions do not like heat. I went with the B&M 14400 BTU cooler. It was cheap and easy to install. My vortex air intake system is blocking half of it and I still rarely get above 170 with regular driving. I did drive the car briefly without it and it hit 200 in less than a mile.
Not enough info, what axle ratio do you have?
What are your future mod plans?
Yes you will need a cooler and a trans tune.
Not all converters are created equal when it comes to stall/torque ratio.
2001 Navy Metallic Coupe, 3.15 A4, Stainless Works Headers,Three Inch Mid Pipes, BPP Vortex Intake, Carbon Fiber Power Duct, Smooth Coupler, PP Throttle Body with Coolant Bypass, Tuned, Lowered, Z06 Sway Bars, Bilstein Sports.
Sorry I neglected this. Thanks for pointing it out.
I recently added 3.42 gears, a 2600 stall Vigilante, and a mild cam. It cut 0.6 seconds off the 1/8 mile!!! (which is ALOT) It will snap your head off. However, I lost 3 mpg. My goal was to maintain street drivability (daily driver), but now I do NOT consider any stall converter higher than stock good for street below 35 mph - the converter allows WAYYY too much slippage for my tastes (Precision Industries claims that the performance I've described to them over the phone is normal). The majority of my driving is in heavy traffic and I almost had my installer pull the converter back out the day after it was installed. Yes I grin from ear to ear at the dragstrip, but as a daily driver??? I'm not grinning. If you've never driven a car with a higher stall speed torque converter, I HIGHLY recommend you find someone with one and try driving around the local neighborhood to experience it for yourself before spending the money.
However, I lost 3 mpg. My goal was to maintain street drivability (daily driver), but now I do NOT consider any stall converter higher than stock good for street below 35 mph - the converter allows WAYYY too much slippage for my tastes (Precision Industries claims that the performance I've described to them over the phone is normal). The majority of my driving is in heavy traffic and I almost had my installer pull the converter back out the day after it was installed. Yes I grin from ear to ear at the dragstrip, but as a daily driver??? I'm not grinning. If you've never driven a car with a higher stall speed torque converter, I HIGHLY recommend you find someone with one and try driving around the local neighborhood to experience it for yourself before spending the money.
for your specific though, I can see the concern over MPG. But on the highway with the converter locked... there should be no MPG change with any higher stall TC.
Thanks to everyone responding to this thread. You have all helped me focus a bit more in how to approach this project and provided some good comparisons. Your responses are very much appreciated.
for your specific though, I can see the concern over MPG. But on the highway with the converter locked... there should be no MPG change with any higher stall TC.
After reading Mike's information I've gone with the same converter, all mod parts are being purchased at this time (H & C project) and should be installed in the next 3-6 weeks.
for your specific though, I can see the concern over MPG. But on the highway with the converter locked... there should be no MPG change with any higher stall TC.
In the thread link above Mike mentions he was able to power brake to 1900/2000, an improvement of 500 to 600 rpms over the stock stall of 1400 rpm. Is it correct to equate these figures to a stall of 1400 stall and 1900/2000. As a comparison would a Yank 2800 or a 3000 allow for power braking to 2800 or 3000 rpm?
Mike, If you read this, how many tenths did you improve your 1/4 mile time with the new stall?