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The first time I had my torque converter replaced, it cost me $850, quite a bit higher than the original estimate. Now that I'm having some lockup clutch problems, I thought I'd tear the thing out myself rather than pay a price like that again.
My biggest problem before lowering the rear suspension cradle is getting those dang lower ball-joints disconnected (as per the short instructions I got a hold of). How do I press these things apart? There's no room for a generic ball joint press to fit in there. Should I instead just remove the lower A-arm from the cradle? (I'd have to disconnect the leaf spring and sway bar connections, but these both look like cake compared to that taper-fit ball-joint).
Re: do it yourself lower ball joint removal? (y2kredauto)
You could block the upper a-arm so the suspension hangs on the upper a-arm, IF you do this correctly you can then loosen the LBJ nut 1-2 turns and hit the spindle with a BFH and it will pop the LBJ out of the spindle.Then support the lower arm and take off the nut.Then lower the lower a-arm slowly making sure the a-arm does not hang up on the sheetmetal .Don't beat the crap out of the a-arm. A light hit will usually dislodge the LBJ.If you need more info IM me. this is the easiest , quickest way to pop the BJ'S and I've done it this way for years. If it is really stuck you can buy a "fork" to split it apart. :cheers:
Re: do it yourself lower ball joint removal? (ZAP)
Thanks, ZAP.
I got to anxious to get the thing out before I heard from you, so I went ahead and disconnected the legs to the lower A-arm. They were definitely in the way when I lowered the cradle, but with the right moves, I got the whole thing out. I found out that my neighbor has a mechanic, and he came over and showed me the technique you described to separate the ball joint. He did use probably 20 whacks, though, and before I knew it, he had marred the outside of that spindle. I don't think this has caused any real damage, but that soft aluminum kind of scares me.