What the heck was this, trying to discuss something and you come back with a wise a$$ remark.

 

WOW I just got off duty sat down with a pint glass of wine and tried to read this thread. Lotsa thought and time were expended here. Will this mount help with wheel hop? See http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2130004

 

It might help some, but the dte brace is also needed. Most guys crack there differential when they get wheel hop and don't break the axles.

Are sure you got wheel hop ? or was it just the axle letting go ?

 

The video that they did shows the drive train moving up and down and not really side to side.

I'm sure there some side to side wiggle room due to the stock rubber mounts, but it's gotta be minimal or else there is something else bigger going on like a broken motor mount.

I wonder if anyone has cracked a torque tube from drive line stress ?

I know a lot of guys have cracked the differential and the rear tranny housing.

I've also seen a few rears just shredded by torque stress from some high powered machines.

I personally bought the brace to help with wheel hop. I also have a DTE brace and completely built drive line that I installed when I converted from an automatic to six speed.

 

Correct. The shimming is done to make sure that the poly pads are firmly contacting the cross member.

 

Any fitment issues with both the DTE and the Pfadt brace in place?

 

Yes the car had been doing it a lot and I didn't realize how bad it was. My shifter would move up and down a lot and my cats would hit my tunnel brace.

 

The ONLY force that the Torque Tube transmits back to the front engine mounts is the force depicted in this diagram:





The Torque Tube does not transmit the Powertrain roll back anywhere!



Pfadt's differential brace greatly reduces the Powertrain roll about its roll axis.

 

I think you need to read up on Newtons Third Law.

You are correct that acceleration does contribute as well but it's not the main reason. I didn't say it directly but the more load you can put on the engine - or more appropriately the more power you can transfer to the ground - the more the drivetrain tries to pick up the front of the car. That picture Pumba posted of the engine trying to pick the front of th car up is 100% correct when under power. However, the ones he posted of the engine trying to rock over to the right side are wrong.

I actually have a bushing and am considering building myself a mount like the PFADT one without the wings. It would look like a PFADT engine mount. I expect it to work very well.

Peter

 

Haven't got a chance to install the Pfadt mount yet as the car is still up at the paint shop.

I don't see how it would interfere excet for the counter-weight on the drivers side.

 

Sounds like your motor mounts or rear tranny mount is loose or broken.

I've nailed my car a few times and never had that problem. Also I would check the exhaust mounts at the bellhousing and at the rear of the torque tube.

 

I see that GM has redesigned the rear mount in the C6. They now use two mounts as far apart as they can get them. I ordered the Pfadt mount so I will see if it helps.

 

Exhaust is good rear mount was good. I have bellanger tri y headers. I also put in a 3/8" tunnel brace. The cats were hitting 3 of the tunnel plate bolts. Theres not a lot of clearance in there anymore. Thanks for the replies

 

Interested to hear you results once installed.

 

I have the same size tunnel plate, LPE headers and stock "H" pipe and I don't hit.

 

What? This thread is still going?
Then I guess I better post again in case the "torque on the engine mounts" camp has any remaining un-vented animosity.


If the Pfadt mount is supposed to provide an advantage analogous to the wider C6 mount, note that Pfadt also considers the C6 mount worthy of improvement, because they sell an upgrade for that as well. It's claimed to help with "driveline shake", as with the C5 mount.

PFADT LINK


Edit:
According to an article on the new ZR-1 in an enthusiast publication, GM deals with wheel hop on this car by having the active suspension command close to 100% rebound damping on the rear shocks when the system detects "launch" conditions. This also makes the back end squat for slightly better weight transfer.
I guess it's hard for the wheels to hop when they can't go up and down.

 

So In August I Bought my first Vette a 2000 FRC now it has a H/C/I/E and when I had the new clutch installed I added a VBP Poly transaxle mount....I am miserable!!!! I hate it!!! I want something a bit more ridged than the stock one but I do not want to feel like I am driving a Harly Davidson powered *****. I have so much vibration in my cabin that it is almost no fun to drive....well almost.
I see your mount looks pretty nice. How will the vibration be? how easy is the install My car is running about 450 RWHP maybe 10 to 20 hp more. I don want any vibration but I want to have a mount that I can rest at ease will not break on me the first time I light into it.

 

Lots of vibration reported with Pfadt mount too.

More than likely your clutch or TT is transmitting the vibrations you feel due to being out of balance or bad couplers.

 

It's interesting to note that the FWD drivetrain in my glorious '95 Intrepid is actually quite analogous to our Vettes torque tube set-up. It's got a longitudinally mounted engine with the transaxle mounted solidly to the engine. I rebuilt the engine a couple of years ago, and when I got it back together, I drove it around the block a few times with no hood on it to make sure all was well. As I was driving, I could look down at the entire drivetrain system. When you accelerate the car, these systems have only one torque applied to them. Its torque as seen in the side view, not the front view. An extreme example is when a car lifts its fronts. In a torque tube C5, the engine/torque tube/trans/diff unit lift, and carry the rest of the car with it. When you jam it, the torque applied to the drivetrain tries to spin the engine UP arount the rear wheels, not to the left or right. A little freaky, and a lot unusual on front engine RWD cars. On our C5's, the engine is far from the rear wheel centerline, so the torque developed has a hard time delivering big displacement. Not so on my Intrepid. The engine/transaxle mass is distributed very close to the wheel centerline. Result: The nose of the engine pitches way up when I nail it. Not left. Not right.

In my humble opinion, the mount that this thread was originally about is a beautiful solution to a problem that never existed. Straight up.

 

Ran like butter prior. Now the pretty much solid transaxle mount from VBP has no forgivness. I will probably end up replacing it with the rubber stock mount.
Same clutch assembly as my friends 03 Z06 and his car is smooth.