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New CLB didn't work...Now what do I do?

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Old 08-24-2008, 01:30 PM   #21
anniv88
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Originally Posted by bluvette79 View Post
did you try to instal the clb before or after the fuel problem? if you tried to install the clb after the problem surfaced it will not correct it. as i understand it the clb needs to be installed before the problem presents itself. good luck either way



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Old 08-24-2008, 01:51 PM   #22
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since you have a service contract, i would have them troubleshoot the bcm and relays. once they get it straightened out, the clb will take over and keep the ghost away. sit back, have a beverage and let us know the outcome you paid for the service contract, you might as well use it
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Old 08-24-2008, 03:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rare-72 View Post
So by bad bypass relay are you saying the K harness and the CLB are both bad? I know that it does not cycle connected in any of the three configurations.

The dealer is saying that after the new BCM is installed the CLB should work. They also say the actuator may be stuck but I would not need to replace it since I have a CLB. Does this sound correct?
The Harness K as installed by the recall, keeps the actuator in the circuit, so you can still hear it cycle even if the column cannot lock. However, there are forum members that have disconnected the actuator from the Harness K relay, and the system still worked fine.
Of course, the aftermarket version, CLB, does not even have the wires to connect the actuator.
I am saying that it is possible that the Harness K relay failed, and your CLB relay is not working either.
You might try getting the dealer to plug in a good Harness K kit before they do anything else, or get the supplier of the CLB to send you a replacement.
IF you trust the dealer, you could tell them to go ahead and replace the BCM with the understanding that if that does not fix the problem, you will not have to pay for it.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:50 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mrm1149 View Post
If your k harness had a black relay that was the first round of harnesses. It was more reliable than the later white one......neither of which were really worth crap. With the clb, the actuator is not even powered if you have the clb in properly........
I have the black relay. There is only one way to plug in the CLB so I know that is correct too. I think it may be the BCM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JC in XTC5 View Post
I'll take step back. It seems you're saying with neither the Harness K nor CLB installed, meaning the connector from the BCM is connected to the Lock Actuator directly, results in no cycling of the Lock Actuator when the key is inserted and turned to ON, nor removed. This to me means that the BCM is no longer sending the correct LOCK/UNLOCK signal to the Lock Acuator (nor Harness K nor CLB).

This signal is sent from the BCM via IPC fuse 23 to a Column Lock Relay near the BCM. If the fuse is good then the next step is to verify if the Column Lock Relay is firing - either it is bad or the BCM is not sending the signal which would ultimately mean the BCM is bad.

The Column Lock Relay is the leftmost relay above the BCM in the footwell. You'll see three relays attached along the top of the cavity above the BCM, and again it the leftmost one.

- The connector to the CL Relay has 6 pins but only 4 wires. You'll see Orange and White wires on one side of the connector and another Orange wire with a Dark Green wire on the other side of the connector with the 2 middle connectors unused. The Orange Wire next to the White should always be hot +12V from fuse 23.

-The Dark Green wire should be normally open but then grounded when the BCM fires it to cycle the CL actuator. If you put an Ohm meter to across that pin and ground and verify it goes from open to short when you either turn the key to ON or remove the key that will confirm that the BCM is trying to fire the relay. If this doesn't occur then the BCM is bad.

- If the BCM does try to fire the relay, then the output of the relay should be checked. Put an Ohm meter across the White wire and the other Orange wire (next to the Dk Green). It should normally be open but when the BCM fires the relay these two wires should be shorted together (contact of the relay). If that's not happening then the relay is shot and only that needs to be replaced.

So the way I read this, either fuse 23 is blown (which you've said is not the case), the BCM is not firing the relay (bad BCM) or the BCM is firing the relay but the relay is not firing (the relay is bad). Hope this helps. If you have a service manual the schematic is on page2-54 (2000 Helm Manual in Steering Wheel and Column section).

Once the LOCK/UNLOCK signal is being sent out towards the Column Lock Actuator, then the BCM will work fine.
Fuse 23 checked good, but I replaced it any way. No change. I gave up and the dealer has it. The claim the BCM is the culprit, but I am going to mention the relay to them as well. I am waiting for the new BCM to arrive. I'll post the results as soon as I know.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:06 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0 View Post
The Harness K as installed by the recall, keeps the actuator in the circuit, so you can still hear it cycle even if the column cannot lock. However, there are forum members that have disconnected the actuator from the Harness K relay, and the system still worked fine.
Of course, the aftermarket version, CLB, does not even have the wires to connect the actuator.
I am saying that it is possible that the Harness K relay failed, and your CLB relay is not working either.
You might try getting the dealer to plug in a good Harness K kit before they do anything else, or get the supplier of the CLB to send you a replacement.
IF you trust the dealer, you could tell them to go ahead and replace the BCM with the understanding that if that does not fix the problem, you will not have to pay for it.
When the problem started, I no longer heard the actuator cycle. So I figured it was the K harness and installed the CLB. When that didn't work, I removed both and plugged it together like it came from the factory. After that did not work, I tried every combination of checking fuses, replacing fuses that checked good, and trying to reset the system.

The dealer service here is very good. They said if the BCM did not work it would not be charged to the bill. However they seem pretty sure it is the culprit. I'll just have to wait for the outcome.

I want to drive our Vette!
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:17 PM   #27
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I am gunna say the BCM is probably bad. It doesn't happen very often but it does happen. Since you do have the CLB then even if the actuator is bad you do not need it. Since you have hooked it up like it was from the factory and then used the K harness and now even used the CLB I will bet the BCM took a dump. I mean it's not likely that the k harness, CLB or the stock actuator is all bad
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:41 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mvvette97 View Post
I am gunna say the BCM is probably bad. It doesn't happen very often but it does happen. Since you do have the CLB then even if the actuator is bad you do not need it. Since you have hooked it up like it was from the factory and then used the K harness and now even used the CLB I will bet the BCM took a dump. I mean it's not likely that the k harness, CLB or the stock actuator is all bad
The odds of all three things being bad are highly unlikely. If the BCM comes in tomorrow I should know if it was the issue all along.
In any case, I have learned more than I wanted to know about the column lock issuess on our cars.
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:05 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by rare-72 View Post
The odds of all three things being bad are highly unlikely. If the BCM comes in tomorrow I should know if it was the issue all along.
In any case, I have learned more than I wanted to know about the column lock issuess on our cars.

My thought is that during the installation of the CLB you disconnect the wiring under the steering column. When you do that you basically lock the column. You then connect the CLB and plug the adapter into the cigarette lighter which unlocks the column. Mine was very obvious when it released the column. The steering wheel turned a few inches as soon as I plugged the adapter into the cigarette lighter. That release is how you know the CLB works and that you installed it correctly.

So strange that this feature works well on every other car in the world.

David in AZ
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:30 AM   #30
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unlocking the actuator is accomplished by plugging in dc power to the actuator plug before the clb is plugged in. once that is done, the clb is used to send an unlock signal to the bcm when the key is turned. the actuator no longer receives power to cycle. thats the way mine works, anyhow.

if you have an extended warranty, how come you have to pay for a bcm?

i agree, you have been drug over the coals on this one. hope issue is resolved soon.
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluvette79 View Post
did you try to instal the clb before or after the fuel problem? if you tried to install the clb after the problem surfaced it will not correct it. as i understand it the clb needs to be installed before the problem presents itself. good luck either way
There's misinformation flying around on this thread which leads to a lot of guessing. Please state facts or don't post.

I think what bluvette79 is trying to say is the CLB will NOT solve your problem once the steering column has failed in the locked position (can't turn your wheel). The fuel cutoff is an after affect of your column lock failure and will go away once you get it resolved.

If your lock plate has been removed, OR your steering column has failed in the unlocked position OR your column lock actuator is operational and you've used the cigar lighter plug supplied with the CLB to retract (unlock) your steering column, THEN your CLB OR your K Harness should work. This of course assumes the following conditions:
1) there are no blown fuses (fuse 23) that supplies 12V to your BCM to lock/unlock your system
2) your aux relay (M6 & M12 cars) located above the BCM is working (or correctly bypassed)
3) your BCM is operational (I've yet to actually see a failed BCM...very rare and unlikely)
4) your wiring is correct and working between your BCM and your CLB. Check to make sure the black wire has a good ground, the white (or orange if stock) and purple wires are not open or shorted and the green wire should indicate +12V (locked) with CLB disconnected (there's a pullup resistor in the BCM).

The goal is to see the green wire grounded (unlocked) by your CLB or K Harness when you insert the ignition key.
John

Last edited by Cscokd; 08-29-2008 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 08-29-2008, 09:28 AM   #32
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thanks for the clarification cscokd can't wait to hear the actual cause
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:54 PM   #33
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I too am getting the steering lock service message. Apparently my 2000 a4 has been recalled as I can turn the wheel with the key OUT.
Now I get the message and the car starts but after 2 mph it stops.
Will installinbg a CLB cure the problem ??

I too am doing alot of reading and there seems to be alot of confusion .

Thanks Mike Foreman 503 698 8473
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:47 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by mnfmkf View Post
I too am getting the steering lock service message. Apparently my 2000 a4 has been recalled as I can turn the wheel with the key OUT.
Now I get the message and the car starts but after 2 mph it stops.
Will installinbg a CLB cure the problem ??

I too am doing alot of reading and there seems to be alot of confusion .

Thanks Mike Foreman 503 698 8473
yes it should. I disabled the fuel cutoff on mine also so there is no possible way to get stranded. I had a CLB fail a while back and if I wouldn't of had the cut off disabled I would of been stranded
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Old 08-29-2008, 11:51 PM   #35
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Have you tried:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1558667185

"opened the passenger side foot well under the carpet and removed the BCM, then located the recall mod relay (unplug it) and added a jumper wire between the white wire (that attached to relay pin #30) and the orange wire (that attached to relay pin #87).

(Making sure to identify the orange wire that connected to pin #87 because there are two orange wires that connect to the relay. You can see the numbers on the inside of the relay after you unplug it next to each pin)"
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:54 PM   #36
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How did you disable the fuel cutoff ? I have contacted a local tuner and he wasnt sure if this could be done. This sounds like the real cure to me .

Thanks Mike
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:54 PM   #37
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To the best of my knowledge only 2 tuning software products can do this. EFI Live and HP Tuners. You set the fuel shutoff to a large value (255 is max). If anyone knows of additional products please post the info.

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How did you disable the fuel cutoff ? I have contacted a local tuner and he wasnt sure if this could be done. This sounds like the real cure to me .

Thanks Mike
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Old 08-30-2008, 02:09 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 View Post
To the best of my knowledge only 2 tuning software products can do this. EFI Live and HP Tuners. You set the fuel shutoff to a large value (255 is max). If anyone knows of additional products please post the info.
I just started playing with EFI Live. I could not find the "fuel shutoff" value. I did find an "anti-theft" setting - but not sure what that accomplishes. You can change the anti-theft mode to "none" if you want.
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:51 PM   #39
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Using EFI Live go to SYSTEM-THEFT and change G1201 to none and G0801 to no. Doing this will stop the fuel cutoff BUT! if you don't get the bypass there is a chance you will see the service column lock message, only thing is now you can drive the car like normal. One thing you need to know is that if you tune the cutoff out then you MUST have the lock plate removed because if you don't then if for some reason the steering wheel locked the car won't die and at highway speeds that would be a major crash. REMOVE THE LOCK PLATE BEFORE YOU TUNE OUT THE FUEL CUTOFF!!!
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:56 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by bluvette79 View Post
unlocking the actuator is accomplished by plugging in dc power to the actuator plug before the clb is plugged in. once that is done, the clb is used to send an unlock signal to the bcm when the key is turned. the actuator no longer receives power to cycle. thats the way mine works, anyhow.

if you have an extended warranty, how come you have to pay for a bcm?

i agree, you have been drug over the coals on this one. hope issue is resolved soon.
The extended warranty is paying for the BCM. I just took a long time to get here. Now with the holiday, I won't have it back till Tuesday.
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