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New CLB didn't work...Now what do I do?

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Old 08-17-2008, 07:56 PM   #1
rare-72
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Default New CLB didn't work...Now what do I do?

For those of you that have had the same issue, I could use your help.
I thought the K harness had failed. I installed a new Adaptive Performance CLB after hearing that had worked for a number of forum members. Following all the directions installing the CLB, the car still dies and displays the "Remove Key" and "Service Column Lock" messages. I have pulled fuses 25 and 29 as recommended by Adaptive Performance, and fuse 23 because it was mentioned on the info in the forum. I've also cleaned both sets of ignition keys with alcohol and let them dry. Is it time to give up and call the dealer for a tow.
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:20 PM   #2
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Did you remove the K harness?

Peter
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:53 PM   #3
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Did you remove the K harness?

Peter
Peter,

I removed the K harness and even used the power plug adapter to disengage the steering column even though the column has never locked since I have had the car. Do I need to leave the K harness attached along with the CLB plugged in?
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:43 PM   #4
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Well from what I've read you remove the K harness and reconnect the wiring where it was spliced in and that puts it back so it's the original wiring. Then, a column lock bypass should work.

I just stuck one in my car. The lock still worked but I figured I might as well before it sticks on me. I got a list of service work from a GM dealership and my car doesn't show and column lock recalls ever being done on it so no K harness.

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Old 08-17-2008, 11:08 PM   #5
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On my car the K harness plugged in between the two ends of the factory harness. Nothing was spliced in. The CLB plugs into the end going into the dash. The end coming from the column was left disconnected. Did I install this wrong?
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:00 AM   #6
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Because of the male-female relationship of the connectors, it should be pretty much impossible to install the CLB incorrectly. I have heard of 2 or 3 instances of a CLB failing but not more than that. (at least posted back on the Forum)

I would pull fuses 9, 13, 22, 23 and 25 and inspect them carefully to make sure that they are all good. Use an ohm meter if you have one. I recall a few instances of people installing a CLB and not having it work correctly and when the fuses having to do with the BCM were inspected carefully one of more were bad. The fuses in question are in the fusebox located in the passenger footwell.

Just read another post that says fuse 22 really doesn't have anything to do with the BCM. Rathere it is an unused switched source of 12 volts that others have used to power aftermarket add ons.

Last edited by 8VETTE7; 08-18-2008 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Spelling check. Fuse 22 info
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:36 AM   #7
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Thanks for the tip on the fuses! Wouldn't that be nice if that is all it is.



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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 View Post
Because of the male-female relationship of the connectors, it should be pretty much impossible to install the CLB incorrectly. I have heard of 2 or 3 instances of a CLB failing but not more than that. (at least posted back on the Forum)

I would pull fuses 9, 13, 22, 23 and 25 and inspect them carefully to make sure that they are all good. Use an ohm meter if you have one. I recall a few instances of people installing a CLB and not having it work correctly and when the fuses having to do with the BCM were inspected carefully one of more were bad. The fuses in question are in the fusebox located in the passenger footwell.

Just read another post that says fuse 22 really doesn't have anything to do with the BCM. Rathere it is an unused switched source of 12 volts that others have used to power aftermarket add ons.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:02 AM   #8
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Well the fuses checked ok. So after checking everything three times I gave up and called the dealer to come get it.

According to them the problems is with the Body Control Module, and none of the things I tried could overcome that. They also told me the CLB would have worked if the BCM did not have a problem. Is this correct?

So far I have been very satisfied with the service department at out dealership. They have done all repairs correctly the first time, and we always get the car back spotless.

Now all I hope is that my that my Service Contract will cover the BCM. It mentions it covers computers/electronics/sensors/modules/and any high tech factory electronics. So far it has covered just about everything.

Darn, those new Vettes at GM employee price sure looks tempting. I just like the C5 body better, and its paid for too.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:07 AM   #9
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One way to tell if the CLB relay (and Harness K relay) is bad, is to just connect the column lock actuator back to the BCM in the stock configuration.
If your actuator works, then the fuel cut off problem should be solved, and you can at least drive the car.

I would try that before I had the car towed.

If the BCM works with the actuator connected, then I would say it is very possible that the CLB relay is also defective.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:33 AM   #10
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One way to tell if the CLB relay (and Harness K relay) is bad, is to just connect the column lock actuator back to the BCM in the stock configuration.
If your actuator works, then the fuel cut off problem should be solved, and you can at least drive the car.

I would try that before I had the car towed.

If the BCM works with the actuator connected, then I would say it is very possible that the CLB relay is also defective.
Thanks, I tried that already, and I still got the fuel shutoff at 2 mph. That is why I think the actuator is bad or stuck.
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:54 PM   #11
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did you try to instal the clb before or after the fuel problem? if you tried to install the clb after the problem surfaced it will not correct it. as i understand it the clb needs to be installed before the problem presents itself. good luck either way
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:19 PM   #12
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Thanks, I tried that already, and I still got the fuel shutoff at 2 mph. That is why I think the actuator is bad or stuck.
If you tried reconnecting the actuator, could you not hear it cycle when you turned the key on or off?

Just don't let the dealer sell you a new actuator.
If the CLB relay is working right, you do not need a working actuator to get the system to work.
I guess it is possible there is a BCM problem, but I would still bet you have a bad bypass relay.
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:21 PM   #13
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did you try to instal the clb before or after the fuel problem? if you tried to install the clb after the problem surfaced it will not correct it. as i understand it the clb needs to be installed before the problem presents itself. good luck either way
I had not heard this. If this is correct then I spent some money I didn't need to for the CLB. Anyone else comment on this?
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:32 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0 View Post
If you tried reconnecting the actuator, could you not hear it cycle when you turned the key on or off?

No, I connected it with out the CLB or K harness and I did not hear anything.

Just don't let the dealer sell you a new actuator.
If the CLB relay is working right, you do not need a working actuator to get the system to work.
I guess it is possible there is a BCM problem, but I would still bet you have a bad bypass relay.
So by bad bypass relay are you saying the K harness and the CLB are both bad? I know that it does not cycle connected in any of the three configurations.

The dealer is saying that after the new BCM is installed the CLB should work. They also say the actuator may be stuck but I would not need to replace it since I have a CLB. Does this sound correct?
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Old 08-23-2008, 04:48 PM   #15
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It is possible that your k- harness took a crap and the clb you bought is bad. I run the k-harness,my actuator took a dump about a month ago and car still starts and runs fine. As said earlier you do not need a working actuator for harness to work.
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Old 08-23-2008, 06:34 PM   #16
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It is possible that your k- harness took a crap and the clb you bought is bad. I run the k-harness,my actuator took a dump about a month ago and car still starts and runs fine. As said earlier you do not need a working actuator for harness to work.
Is there a way to test if my new CLB is bad?
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Old 08-23-2008, 06:58 PM   #17
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have you had a chance to read the sticky above on the whole clb issue? there are some really good discussion involving ciscod that are similar to your problem. i was trying to find the thread regarding installing the clb while the problem existed. i couldn't find it but the clb is not useless. once you get the system reset the clb will work if it isnt bad. the stuff on around page 5-10 or so of the sticky seems to be rather thorough with regards to the k harness mod (if it has a white relay), pulling fuses and the addition of another relay near the bcm that was also a mod. i am not smart enough to help with the details but the sticky sure seems to me to give you some more troubleshooting opportunities f yu haven't tried them already.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluvette79 View Post
have you had a chance to read the sticky above on the whole clb issue? there are some really good discussion involving ciscod that are similar to your problem. i was trying to find the thread regarding installing the clb while the problem existed. i couldn't find it but the clb is not useless. once you get the system reset the clb will work if it isnt bad. the stuff on around page 5-10 or so of the sticky seems to be rather thorough with regards to the k harness mod (if it has a white relay), pulling fuses and the addition of another relay near the bcm that was also a mod. i am not smart enough to help with the details but the sticky sure seems to me to give you some more troubleshooting opportunities f yu haven't tried them already.
I'll check it out. I don't think my K harness has a white relay. I've done the fuse thing with no change. I don't know about a relay near the BCM? Anyone have pics of this?

But, since the car has been sitting, I did install new drilled/slotted Power Stop rotors with ceramic pads, adjusted the parking brake, and replaced the shocks.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:47 PM   #19
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If your k harness had a black relay that was the first round of harnesses. It was more reliable than the later white one......neither of which were really worth crap. With the clb, the actuator is not even powered if you have the clb in properly........
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:22 PM   #20
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I'll take step back. It seems you're saying with neither the Harness K nor CLB installed, meaning the connector from the BCM is connected to the Lock Actuator directly, results in no cycling of the Lock Actuator when the key is inserted and turned to ON, nor removed. This to me means that the BCM is no longer sending the correct LOCK/UNLOCK signal to the Lock Acuator (nor Harness K nor CLB).

This signal is sent from the BCM via IPC fuse 23 to a Column Lock Relay near the BCM. If the fuse is good then the next step is to verify if the Column Lock Relay is firing - either it is bad or the BCM is not sending the signal which would ultimately mean the BCM is bad.

The Column Lock Relay is the leftmost relay above the BCM in the footwell. You'll see three relays attached along the top of the cavity above the BCM, and again it the leftmost one.

- The connector to the CL Relay has 6 pins but only 4 wires. You'll see Orange and White wires on one side of the connector and another Orange wire with a Dark Green wire on the other side of the connector with the 2 middle connectors unused. The Orange Wire next to the White should always be hot +12V from fuse 23.

-The Dark Green wire should be normally open but then grounded when the BCM fires it to cycle the CL actuator. If you put an Ohm meter to across that pin and ground and verify it goes from open to short when you either turn the key to ON or remove the key that will confirm that the BCM is trying to fire the relay. If this doesn't occur then the BCM is bad.

- If the BCM does try to fire the relay, then the output of the relay should be checked. Put an Ohm meter across the White wire and the other Orange wire (next to the Dk Green). It should normally be open but when the BCM fires the relay these two wires should be shorted together (contact of the relay). If that's not happening then the relay is shot and only that needs to be replaced.

So the way I read this, either fuse 23 is blown (which you've said is not the case), the BCM is not firing the relay (bad BCM) or the BCM is firing the relay but the relay is not firing (the relay is bad). Hope this helps. If you have a service manual the schematic is on page2-54 (2000 Helm Manual in Steering Wheel and Column section).

Once the LOCK/UNLOCK signal is being sent out towards the Column Lock Actuator, then the BCM will work fine.

Last edited by JC in XTC5; 08-24-2008 at 01:27 PM.
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