480 at the wheels (mild tune) with an ECS Paxton S/C. I asked the same exact question before I got mine done. The pros said that it depends on how you drive it.

Well, you be the judge on how I drive - blew the rear within two weeks, and replaced it with a 3:42 ZO6 and put in a 3200 stall. Two more weeks and literally fried the trans - it hit 280 degrees. Now there's an RPM level 5 in there with a trans cooler with no issues. Lot's of smoke coming off the rear tires though, I am still trying to figure that out.

Bottom line IMO is to get a SC and drive the hell out of it, there's nothing like it - just be prepared for all the goodies in the drivetrain that are gonna go boom.

 

Like everyone has already said, it all depends on your intended use of the car.

Myself for example have a stock LS6 with A&A P1SC kit, Dynatech Headers with catted x-pipe, dewitts rad, lingenfelter left shaft, textralia OZ700 clutch etc.

The car lays down 590 rwhp/501rwtq on 91 with the 4.25" pulley. Take into account that this was with many hours of tuning by Phil at Skunkwerks and Rick at Synergy. I don't rag on my car just the occasional burst off of on ramps. I have no intention of taking it to the strip or doing massive rpm clutch dumps so for the time being the factory diff should hold up fine.

I do realize that with a FI car I'm just one bad tank of gas away from a blown engine which really wouldn't be that bad as a forged shortblock would go in and I could pulley down and make some serious numbers. I know that stuff breaks on modded cars and that's the tradeoff sometimes. HP vs reliability.

Point is, modding is addictive and once you dig into the engine, eventually the drivetrain will need upgrading as well.

500 rwhp is easily within reach but if it was my car, I would go FI and do basic drivetrain mods at the same time. Like Jnape said, if you want a N/A engine making those numbers with great drivability, be ready to spend some serious cash!

The choice is yours and I would suggest reading up as much as possible before deciding which route to take. Contact members that have set-ups that meet your power demands and ask as many questions as possible.

Good luck and I look foreward to seeing which set-up you choose!

 

Thanks for the help guys

 

i'm making 500.2 rwhp n/a with a forged 408.. i'm putting a blower on the car and i still have a stock trans and stock rear once it breaks i'll buy new... otherwise.. if its not broke don't fix it.

 

The car stock is balanced.

Not a flame, but I have seen on more then one occasion one thing break and take other things with it. Up to and including the entire driveline assembly/engine. $$$$$$$$$$

FYI

 

You say 500 HP but don't specify crank or rear wheel. I have a stock bottom end running 580 RWHP and a little over 700 at the crank. Have had the setup for over two years with no problems. When it was dynoed and tuned we stopped the HP search at the 580 mark until the tranny and drive train are beefed up. I think the stock bottom end will hold 600 RWHP with no problems as long as it is not abused.

 

Nice thread fundog! I am looking under your hood before I loan you my targa top at the dragstrip again!

 

I had the stockclutch and spec stage 2 would not hold had to go through 3 clutches 1 stock ,1 spec stage 2 plus, and the spec stage 3 plus the three plus holds just fine the trans was rebuilt by me it was fun and i got to say very easy and all new i cant see why people spend 2000 or 3000 dollars for a rebuild took me 2 hrs by my self in my gurage to do it. the next thing would be the eng and trans mounts solid up frount and a up graded rear the drivers side shaft is next and then a vett brakes and preformance full suspension with adco sway bars and SS brake lines and cardotec brake pads then the engine ls2 heads p&p texas speed cam torquer v 2 and a ls2 cam chain hp tunner obx ss steal headers and compleat exaust and 5 hrs on a dino and a set of 315 35 17 on CCW,s for grip net 476hp 430tq over 500 at the crank so a long story short 6000 later in parts and no labor charges net a bad road race vett.
PS if u drag race dont go with the light wait presure plate option if u road race it is grate but it takes a little getting ust to .

 

Stock bottom end is extremely strong but heavy.

same with the fly wheel, extremely strong but heavy

 

The 500hp limit is purely in the pocket book!
"Speed cost's money, how fast do you want to go?"

 

what numbers can a stock m6 trans hold up reliably ?

 

[QUOTE=Silverbullet00;1570272255]Nice thread fundog! I am looking under your hood before I loan you my targa top at the dragstrip again!

 

i have over 500 and i just rebuilt mine at 89000 miles just to keep it fresh for the track if it ever opens

 

The only thing that can be consider strong on a stock LS1 bottom end is the crank.The pistons and rods need to be forged if your planing on 500 hp Na/boost/or nitrous,otherwise it's only a matter of time until things go boom.

 

And Reliability costs every MORE money




if someone ever started a thread on how did their 500 hp motor blow up? Does anyone thing ppl would respond?

Now were not talking bench, bar or forum racing 500 hp motors, but 500 hp motors that spend most of their time above 3500 rpms

Lots of ppl have 500+ HP motors for show cars or 12-15 secs of fame 500+ HP motors.