EBCM Cost to replace
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 333
Likes: 18
From: WPB Fl
EBCM Cost to replace
Have an o2 Z06 with 9000 miles on it. Just came back from a 2300 mile road trip and the Service ABS/Traction Control/Active Handling warning lights have come on the dash display. Have been told I need a new EBCM to fix this. What is a reasonable amount to pay for parts and labor? Can the car be driven around town for local errands.? It is not my daily driver. Thanks for the input.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Simpsonville SC
exactly
Great company, very inexpensive. Did this with my '02, drove full time without problems while he had the component. (quick turnaround) Just be careful driving, got to drive old school without all the features you are used to until you pop that module back in. 
Great company, very inexpensive. Did this with my '02, drove full time without problems while he had the component. (quick turnaround) Just be careful driving, got to drive old school without all the features you are used to until you pop that module back in.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
Likes: 9,801
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Who told you that you need to replace the EBCM? Have you run the on board diagnostics to see what codes show up? Don't just jump into replacing/rebuilding the EBCM until you know for sure.
As for driving with the problem you can certainly do that. The base brake system still works just fine so there is no hurry in fixing the problem.
Bill
As for driving with the problem you can certainly do that. The base brake system still works just fine so there is no hurry in fixing the problem.
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 333
Likes: 18
From: WPB Fl
ebcm
Who told you that you need to replace the EBCM? Have you run the on board diagnostics to see what codes show up? Don't just jump into replacing/rebuilding the EBCM until you know for sure.
As for driving with the problem you can certainly do that. The base brake system still works just fine so there is no hurry in fixing the problem.
Bill
As for driving with the problem you can certainly do that. The base brake system still works just fine so there is no hurry in fixing the problem.
Bill
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Team Owner
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From: East Meadow NY
St. Jude Donor '12
Chris
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
There are TWO totally different things that you need to consider here. Do you want a NEW GM module for 600-800 bucks that will do the SAME thing some time down the road OR,,,,,,have yours fixed by ABS Fixer for $150. and it will have a LIFE TIME Warranty.
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it! Its a plug and play module. 
Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it!
Its a plug and play module. Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
There are TWO totally different things that you need to consider here. Do you want a NEW GM module for 600-800 bucks that will do the SAME thing some time down the road OR,,,,,,have yours fixed by ABS Fixer for $150. and it will have a LIFE TIME Warranty.
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it! Its a plug and play module.
Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it!
Its a plug and play module. Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
Given that absfixer is offering a lifetime warranty, do you happen to know if they are installing upgraded relays to replace the OEM units that apparently are the source of the original problem?
Robert
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 333
Likes: 18
From: WPB Fl
There are TWO totally different things that you need to consider here. Do you want a NEW GM module for 600-800 bucks that will do the SAME thing some time down the road OR,,,,,,have yours fixed by ABS Fixer for $150. and it will have a LIFE TIME Warranty.
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it! Its a plug and play module.
Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
You can un plug TWO connectors and remove SIX torx but screws and remove your own module. It is that easy. Theres NO brake fluid interface to worry about. All you do is remove the screws, seperate the module wrap it up in a box and send it out. You can even drive the car while its out if you properly secure the wires and cover the well where the module was removed. It looks like this:
Once the module returns, reinstall it and drive the car like you stole it!
Its a plug and play module. Save your self some cash and do it your self.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You see the main connector right?? See the thing that says DELPHI right under it? Thats the connection for the BPMV pump motor. Those are the two plugs/
BC
BC
Advanced
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Rutherfordton NC
Think I'm going for the rebuild.
Sent this as a private message to "trussme" but thought I would throw it out there for any advice.
Read your thread dated 12/07. Went thru all troubleshooting information ECBM doesn't seem to be corroded. I have noticed that when I reset DIC and crank the car with my foot on the brake I don't get the DIC message "service ABS/ Service Traction system". I think I would opt to have a rebuild of the EBCM, but does the fact that my error message doesn't come-up with my foot on the brake point to EBCM or BPMV?
This happened when I made a quick U-Turn on a road trip this weekend. The message has come-up on occation when cranking the car, but I do the "turn off for 10 seconds" thing and the message goes away.
Any advice is appriciated as I am a POOR Corvette owner. Yr. Model 2000, only mode is Oil Sender relocate.
Thanks Mike
Sent this as a private message to "trussme" but thought I would throw it out there for any advice.
Read your thread dated 12/07. Went thru all troubleshooting information ECBM doesn't seem to be corroded. I have noticed that when I reset DIC and crank the car with my foot on the brake I don't get the DIC message "service ABS/ Service Traction system". I think I would opt to have a rebuild of the EBCM, but does the fact that my error message doesn't come-up with my foot on the brake point to EBCM or BPMV?
This happened when I made a quick U-Turn on a road trip this weekend. The message has come-up on occation when cranking the car, but I do the "turn off for 10 seconds" thing and the message goes away.
Any advice is appriciated as I am a POOR Corvette owner. Yr. Model 2000, only mode is Oil Sender relocate.
Thanks Mike
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 27
From: Magnolia Greens NC
Procedure for removing EBCM
The procedure for replacing the EBCM is very simple. The only special tool you need is a T-20 Torx screwdriver.
I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was too long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. Torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV
1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - You will probably need to remove the air bridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - Remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) (Figure 9 EBCM (Left) and BPMV (Right)), then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View)). At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down EBCM. (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View))
The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out.
4 - The service manual calls for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restricts the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 Torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides (Figure 11 – Remove 6, T-20 Torx screws EBCM and BPMV).
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screwdriver to break the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes you see in (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View)) has a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
....now, send it to ABSFixer to be repaired
Call Brandon
877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER
or: www.absfixer.com
$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as you own it
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. Push the new EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - Reconnect the wire harness
10 - Put the intake back on
I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was too long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. Torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV
1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - You will probably need to remove the air bridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - Remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) (Figure 9 EBCM (Left) and BPMV (Right)), then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View)). At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down EBCM. (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View))
The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out.
4 - The service manual calls for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restricts the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 Torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides (Figure 11 – Remove 6, T-20 Torx screws EBCM and BPMV).
6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screwdriver to break the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes you see in (Figure 10 – EBCM Disconnected (Front View)) has a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
....now, send it to ABSFixer to be repaired
Call Brandon
877-648-7530 at ABS FIXER
or: www.absfixer.com
$150. plus UPS....warranted as long as you own it
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. Push the new EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - Reconnect the wire harness
10 - Put the intake back on
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Think I'm going for the rebuild.
Sent this as a private message to "trussme" but thought I would throw it out there for any advice.
Read your thread dated 12/07. Went thru all troubleshooting information ECBM doesn't seem to be corroded. I have noticed that when I reset DIC and crank the car with my foot on the brake I don't get the DIC message "service ABS/ Service Traction system". I think I would opt to have a rebuild of the EBCM, but does the fact that my error message doesn't come-up with my foot on the brake point to EBCM or BPMV?
This happened when I made a quick U-Turn on a road trip this weekend. The message has come-up on occation when cranking the car, but I do the "turn off for 10 seconds" thing and the message goes away.
Any advice is appriciated as I am a POOR Corvette owner. Yr. Model 2000, only mode is Oil Sender relocate.
Thanks Mike
Sent this as a private message to "trussme" but thought I would throw it out there for any advice.
Read your thread dated 12/07. Went thru all troubleshooting information ECBM doesn't seem to be corroded. I have noticed that when I reset DIC and crank the car with my foot on the brake I don't get the DIC message "service ABS/ Service Traction system". I think I would opt to have a rebuild of the EBCM, but does the fact that my error message doesn't come-up with my foot on the brake point to EBCM or BPMV?
This happened when I made a quick U-Turn on a road trip this weekend. The message has come-up on occation when cranking the car, but I do the "turn off for 10 seconds" thing and the message goes away.
Any advice is appriciated as I am a POOR Corvette owner. Yr. Model 2000, only mode is Oil Sender relocate.
Thanks Mike
WHAT DTCs do you have?????. If its NOT a 1214 DTC, sending it out probably wont fix the issue. Post the DTCs. You may have another issue that is easily corrected. There are 20 different things that will cause the "service ABS/ Service Traction system".
BC