Replacing the EBTCM will not fix 1217:

DTC C1217
Circuit Description
The system relay is energized when the ignition is ON. The system relay supplies voltage to the solenoid valves and the pump motor. This voltage is referred to as the system voltage.

The electronic brake control module (EBCM) controls each solenoid valve by grounding the solenoid.

The EBCM controls the pump motor by grounding the control circuit. The pump serves 2 purposes:

Transfers brake fluid from the brake calipers to the master cylinder reservoir during pressure decrease events.
Transfers brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to the brake calipers during pressure increase events.
Conditions for Running the DTC
The pump motor has been commanded OFF for 1 second.
The system voltage is greater than 9 volts.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
One of the following conditions exists for 0.2 seconds:

The voltage across the pump motor is greater than 10.2 volts.
The pump motor low side voltage is less than 2.7 volts.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
If equipped, the following actions occur:

The EBCM disables the ABS/TCS/VSES for the duration of the ignition cycle.
The DRP does not function optimally.
The ABS indicator turns ON.
The Traction Control and Active Handling indicator turns ON.
The DIC displays the following messages:
Service ABS
Service Traction System
Service Active Handling
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
The condition for the DTC is no longer present and the DTC is cleared with a scan tool.
The EBCM automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles.
Diagnostic Aids
This DTC determines if there is a short in the pump motor control circuit.
The pump motor is integral to the BPMV. The pump motor is not serviceable.
Test Description
The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

Tests the pump motor circuits of the BPMV for a short to the housing of the BPMV. The wiring from the BPMV to the EBCM should not be repaired.

Step
Action
Values
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: ABS Schematics

Connector End View Reference: ABS Connector End Views

1
Did you perform the ABS Diagnostic System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

2
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the EBCM harness connector
Connect the J 39700 universal pinout box using the J 39700-300 cable adapter to the EBCM harness connector only.
Test both ground circuits of the EBCM including the EBCM ground for a high resistance or an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 3

3
Disconnect the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV at the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Does the resistance measure less than the specified value?
5 ohms
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 5

4
Inspect for poor connections at the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 6

5
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the EBCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 7

6
Replace the BPMV. Refer to Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 8
--

7
Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 8
--

8
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
With the scan tool, perform the Automated Test.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 2
System OK

BC

 

Don't have a scan tool and you are talking waaaay over my head. I have a guy that did the Oil Sender relocate for me, probablly has a scan tool. Think he can take care of this for me without buying one of those $1000 parts?
Thanks for your help,
Mike

 

SKATSUF, Do exactly what Bill Curlee recommends. He is a genius with this stuff! His post showed me how to remove my EBCM, which I sent out to have repaired. Really easy! all you need to do is remove 6 torx screws and unplugging two electrical connections. When I did mine 2 years ago it was $249 to get it fixed with a lifetime warranty. Prices have since come down. The repair the failed parts and also upgrade the other parts!

If I recall when I did mine they test it before they do repairs and if it's not what's causing your problem you pay a small bench charge and get it shipped back to you.

You can do it yourself!

 

After reading the absfixer info on their site, I'm curious now. First of all they do NOT show the '97-'2000 Vettes (they list '01-'04) and secondly, they make reference to a "Surge Suppression Upgrade" (add $50) as part of their rebuild service.

I'm wondering if they are actually replacing the relays with the same type, etc that came out which will fix the problem - til next time - or are they actually using a better relay (higher current ratings on the contacts). If so, then what is the "Surge Suppression Upgrade" all about? Is the "Surge Suppression Upgrade" actually the "upgrade"?
Is it the installation of diodes across the relay contacts or coil to prevent damage from voltage/current spikes? If so, it sounds worth the extra $50 I would think.

I think I'll call and ask about that aspect as well as the '01-'04 Vette listing. Their web site date for Vette info shows to not have been updated since July 2007. I'd like to know if they can handle the '97-'00 Vettes as well.

 

Spoke to Brandon and he cleared up a couple questions I had.

Firstly, the '97-'00 Vettes have a different EBCM than the later versions (internally) and the issues that come up on those units can SOMETIMES be taken care of by him and sometimes NOT. The problem involves the internal connection(s) at certain locations in/on the circuit board and it just depends on the condition or nature of these that determine whether he can successfully repair the unit. Although I haven't done any pricing on the earlier units, Brandon says that they are less expensive to replace, so I guess that's a little good news for guys that have them.

Secondly, on the "Surge Suppression" upgrade, Brandon did indicate that when the pump motor kicks on, there are sometimes what can be damaging voltage spikes or a brief current surge (common to DC motors), and his upgrade eliminates these spikes. Definitely sounds worth the extra $50 to me. He also said that the relays are usually not the actual problem, but rather are circuit board component related.

He really seems to know his stuff and is a "go to" guy on this.

HTH

 

Drove the car this morning and ran the codes once I got to work. A little different story than sitting in the garage running the codes after clearing and before driving. This is what I got:
28-TCS
C1217 H
C1255 H
58- SDM
B022 H C
BO-RAF
U1096 H
U1064 H
U1016 H

Went thru all the gounds last night and no corrostion at all, everything looked good to me. Disconnected the EBCM and cleaned with low pressure air.
Whata you guys think?



JAFE

 

Found during search:

"2GVETTE

No need to give the stealer bogus repair cash. Just send it our way!!!

DTC 1217 diffenation is sort of vauge on what is going on inside the EBTCM but there are things that you can test with a volt meter and ohm meter that will prove the system or componet good or bad. Most of it is basic electrical troubleshooting.

There are THREE fuses that you need to check!

Under Hood Fuse center:

Fuse: #52 ABS (40 amp)
Fuse: # 5 ABS/TRNS (10 Amp)

IP Fuse block:

Fuse #8 STP/HAZ ( 20 Amp)

Once you have checked and tested those fuses, Check the grounds.


Get that far and let us know how everything plays out!"

Bill

THE ABOVE FIXED MY PROBLEM...at least for now

Fuse #52 blown. I know it probablly didn't fix the problem, but at least I don't have to look at those lights anymore.
Found the above post from a while back, went home at lunch and sure enough...#52.

Thanks Bill

 

I just had to do this, took mine out yesterday and am sending it out tomorrow.

Only I missed the part about covering the holes where the unit was. I'm going to do it now, but is it the end of the world that I drove it a couple times? I don't think anything got into the holes. Talking about the 12 copper/brass (whatever they are) plugs.

 

I drove mine a month without the EBCM and never covered the holes.

 

yea after seeing some of the more detailed pics of the brake line block part, they're not even holes, and they're covered. They're some sort of electro magnetic rods or something. They're prolly fine. I'm sure I will have my ABSFixer repaired EBCM back this week so its no biggy.

 

I'm hoping the one in my '04 z keeps on truckin', BUT, if the need arises to replace it...my job at a gm/ford parts warehouse should come in handy!