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hey i just got the car dyno tuned yestarday by cartech amazing guys defenatly great customer service very pleased just looking to see if these are normal results
the car is a 99 frc
Long tube headers
x pipe
Halltech Stinger
and the tune
You have to remember that these are just numbers, dont get caught up into them. Every dyno will read different. How does the car feel and drive? If you are happy then thats all that really matters. In the past I was always worried about dyno numbers and this and that. Over the years ive learned that as long as my cars rips the streets thats all I care about. Your numbers arent terribly low to begin with either. Enjoy it .
What was the AFR? Is it an A4? What LT's are you running. I also assume that these were 3 runs during the tune process as the mods were already installed. The DA was probably pretty high yesterday as well. If run 1 was before tune and 2 and 3 after, I would have expected to see a bit more difference.
But I agree, how does it feel and in todays market, is the gas mileage any better? Low end response will not show up on the dyno run.
it feels faster but like more of a flat response like it pulls more evenly and they were all done during the tune process but the first run was already after he dialed in i guess a base tune
it feels faster but like more of a flat response like it pulls more evenly and they were all done during the tune process but the first run was already after he dialed in i guess a base tune
Is it an automatic or 6 speed. An automatic will normally dyno between 285 and 295 stock. You will have about 20 added HP's based on your hardware mods as the PCM will do some "self-adjusting" to correct for over fueling. The tune will bring the trims back to 0 and add a bit of timing (and pull a little less in certain circumstances) and lean out the WOT a bit to squeeze out and additional 15-20 more.
All is the same for an MN6 with the exception they dyno stock a bit higher like 295/305.
This was my 2004 mn6 with stock 3:42's after Vararam, Dynatech header/x-pipe/cat, Magnaflow install and dyno tune; AFR was 12.8-13.0. With decent air and drag radials, car would go 12.5XX at 113/114 mph.
OK, trust me, don't lose sleep over a dyno sheet. Why trust me? Cause I did it two weeks ago and it just isn't worth it. In the end, the more you drive the car, the more you will notice the added power, and of course, the more you will want to keep modding. Like 500 wise forumers (new word) said to me... Drive it and love it.
This' one of the reasons we dyno. Your TQ curve and #s look OK, but your HP curve is more telling. The HP peak fades too early, IMO, though the #s aren't really that bad. Maybe the engine is getting a little tired, or your valvesprings may be weak. A mild cam kit will really wake up that FRC.
This' one of the reasons we dyno. Your TQ curve and #s look OK, but your HP curve is more telling. The HP peak fades too early, IMO, though the #s aren't really that bad. Maybe the engine is getting a little tired, or your valvesprings may be weak. A mild cam kit will really wake up that FRC.
The car is need of some valve springs...
It was nice to meet you Alex. Your car had me missing my red 99 FRC, I should have never sold it
Alex, my car had almost the same exact thing happen at Cartek. I have ebay headers, no cats, catback, and cartek dyno tune. My car is a 99 Z51 6 speed, and it put down 331/339. My power dipped off around 5300rpm and then stayed there. They said it is probably the springs of valve float.
You have to remember that these are just numbers, dont get caught up into them. Every dyno will read different. How does the car feel and drive? If you are happy then thats all that really matters. In the past I was always worried about dyno numbers and this and that. Over the years ive learned that as long as my cars rips the streets thats all I care about. Your numbers arent terribly low to begin with either. Enjoy it .
You might want to remove your rose colored glasses there dude. The numbers are important....not for a pissing contest, but for a benchmark. You can have a car that feels fine, and seemingly runs good (to the untrained)....until you burn a hole in the piston. I'm glad there is a way of tracking gains(for dollars spent), and isolating/correcting problems before I go to the track.
Just out of curiosity max, why do you guys bounce off the rev limiter when you dyno a car? I thought my car was an accident when it happened.
This is a good way to check for valve float or other problems like fuel pressure drop. On the street you may not even notice it while rowing through the gears.