Oem torque to yield head bolts
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From: Wakefield Ma
Oem torque to yield head bolts
I have removed the heads off my 01 zo6 and the OEM head bolts are Torque to yield non reusable factory head bolts when i go to restart the ARP head bolts they do not thread in properly the factory bolts are designed to ( STRETCH ) the threads in the block . I have gone to a metric tap and die company and they do and have not seen that tap size ( 11 MM x 2 ) does anybody have any helpfull info ....
Thanks in advanced for all your help !!
Tom
Thanks in advanced for all your help !!
Tom
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Is this a case of debris in the thread holes? It's my understanding that "torque to yield" bolts are doing the actual stretching (in the shank area) and not the threads in the block. The particular metal alloy being used in the torque to yield being the difference between them and ARPs, which are reusable.
You may just have to pony up the $50.39 to Summit Racing for an 11mm x 2.0 ARP thread chaser they list in their catalog. Seems a little pricey to me, but 11mm x 2.0 is not a very common Metric size. They list it as a "set" and show three of them in their picture. Their part number is: ARP 912-0011.
HTH
You may just have to pony up the $50.39 to Summit Racing for an 11mm x 2.0 ARP thread chaser they list in their catalog. Seems a little pricey to me, but 11mm x 2.0 is not a very common Metric size. They list it as a "set" and show three of them in their picture. Their part number is: ARP 912-0011.
HTH
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From: Wakefield Ma
thanks
Is this a case of debris in the thread holes? It's my understanding that "torque to yield" bolts are doing the actual stretching (in the shank area) and not the threads in the block. The particular metal alloy being used in the torque to yield being the difference between them and ARPs, which are reusable.
You may just have to pony up the $50.39 to Summit Racing for an 11mm x 2.0 ARP thread chaser they list in their catalog. Seems a little pricey to me, but 11mm x 2.0 is not a very common Metric size. They list it as a "set" and show three of them in their picture. Their part number is: ARP 912-0011.
HTH
You may just have to pony up the $50.39 to Summit Racing for an 11mm x 2.0 ARP thread chaser they list in their catalog. Seems a little pricey to me, but 11mm x 2.0 is not a very common Metric size. They list it as a "set" and show three of them in their picture. Their part number is: ARP 912-0011.
HTH
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
verify you have the correct pn arp units
I've used them dozens of times w/out a prob, usually the studs tho
you could take a stock bolt and grind a channel in it to clean the oe gunk/sealant out of the threads
stick a shop vac in the wp inlet/outlet holes up front to suck out the coolant, saves time and keeps most of the coolant out of the bolt holes
studs are much nicer to work w/, but about 240 or so up front $$
I've used them dozens of times w/out a prob, usually the studs tho
you could take a stock bolt and grind a channel in it to clean the oe gunk/sealant out of the threads
stick a shop vac in the wp inlet/outlet holes up front to suck out the coolant, saves time and keeps most of the coolant out of the bolt holes
studs are much nicer to work w/, but about 240 or so up front $$
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I ground off two opposite sides of the used head bolts to use as thread cleaners. Also, I used studs and they went in pretty easily. They do have a hex built in so you can use an Allen to turn them in although they should go in very easily if you cleaned the threads adequately.
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From: Forney Texas
Correct bolts should be ARP#134-3609. Do make sure you get all the coolant out. You can actually make a thread chaser out of one of your old bolts by cutting a groove down both sides with a cutoff wheel and cleaning them up with a die. It won't work as well as a tap, but it will pick up alot of trash from your block threads. Make sure if you do it this way that you do it by hand. NO POWER TOOLS!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Forney Texas
I ground off two opposite sides of the used head bolts to use as thread cleaners. Also, I used studs and they went in pretty easily. They do have a hex built in so you can use an Allen to turn them in although they should go in very easily if you cleaned the threads adequately.
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
DO NOT use a tap. It will remove some of the metal in the threads in the head. If you don't make your own thread chaser out of an old bolt, purchase a Thread Cleaning Tap. It wont remove any metal from the threads.
I also used the ARP Head Studs. Man,,,there nice! Thats the way to go if you can afford it. I agree, MAKE SURE you have the correct head bolts.
Those ARP bolts should screw right in without a problem.
I used a air chuck with a long thin tube that fit down inside the head bolt hole. Then I blew out all the water and dirt. The hole MUST be dry!
I also used the ARP Head Studs. Man,,,there nice! Thats the way to go if you can afford it. I agree, MAKE SURE you have the correct head bolts.
Those ARP bolts should screw right in without a problem.I used a air chuck with a long thin tube that fit down inside the head bolt hole. Then I blew out all the water and dirt. The hole MUST be dry!
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From: Wakefield Ma
thanks
Thanks guys for all your help the heads are on and all is well so far with that problem now having issues with the fast 90 and the nsx nos fuel rails i do not think they fit without modifying the cowl anyone run into that problem ( see my new thread )
Thanks guys
Tom h
Thanks guys
Tom h
