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Car wont start...getting no spark

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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 05:41 PM
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One more thing I notice...not sure if this will help...but when I turn the ignition on, I get this message "Reduced Engine Power"
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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Reduced Eng Power deals with the TAC Module, Throttle position Sensor and accelerator peddle sensor. What DTCs are you seeing?
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JSTAN
Lucky...here are the readings

17 - 11.8
18 - 4.7
19 - 11.9
22 - 4.6
24 - 11.8

Note - There was no fuse in the #17 slot.

All fuses including #16 were all good.
Just reviewing here: How could there be no fuse in the #17 position, isn't that for the TAC Module?
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Just reviewing here: How could there be no fuse in the #17 position, isn't that for the TAC Module?

Thats what I was wondering. I am going to get a fuse and see if that makes a difference, but that slot was empty when I removed the cover.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Just reviewing here: How could there be no fuse in the #17 position, isn't that for the TAC Module?

I put a fuse in the #17 slot and the problem still exists.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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From: Holliston MA
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Reduced Eng Power deals with the TAC Module, Throttle position Sensor and accelerator peddle sensor. What DTCs are you seeing?

Scan tool reports the following DTC's....Looks like I found the culprit.

P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2)

P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
There are TWO ways to check voltage in a circuit. One way is attaching the NEGATIVE Meter wire to ground and reading the contact/s with the positive wire. The other is to read the circuit IN LINE. If you read the two small metal terminals on top of the fuse (attach the pos terminal to one fuse contact and the negative terminal to the other fuse contact),,if the fuse is GOOD,,,you should see ZERO voltage. If the fuse is bad (open) the voltage that NORMALY FLOWS THRU the GOOD FUSE, cant flow through the bad fuse and instead flows through the meter indicating a BAD fuse. SO,,,if you see voltage across a fuse, the fuse is BAD. If you see zero voltage, the fuse is good!

On the other hand,,,if you atach one meter lead to ground and read the metal contacts on top of the fuse, you should see the same voltage on both contacts. If you see 12 VDC on one side, and zero on the other,,,the fuae is BAD!

Hope this explains it so you can troubleshoot.

Bill C

To expound upon Bill’s excellent explanation:

A fuse is simply a short piece of wire designed to melt when excessive current passes through it.

A “fusible link” described in repair manuals is actually an electrical wire of smaller diameter (and thus smaller electrical capacity) than the remainder of the wiring in the circuit in which it is designed to protect. A “fusible link” will melt before the rest of its wiring harness, thus acting as a fuse.

If you place the contacts of a voltmeter across a short piece of good electrical wire you will read zero volts, just as you would a good fuse, which is actually a short piece of wire.

P.S. Never use a short piece of wire to replace a fuse - you risk starting a fire.

Last edited by timemender; Sep 25, 2008 at 12:37 PM.
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