Car wont start...getting no spark
Scan tool reports the following DTC's....Looks like I found the culprit.
P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
On the other hand,,,if you atach one meter lead to ground and read the metal contacts on top of the fuse, you should see the same voltage on both contacts. If you see 12 VDC on one side, and zero on the other,,,the fuae is BAD!
Hope this explains it so you can troubleshoot.
Bill C
To expound upon Bill’s excellent explanation:
A fuse is simply a short piece of wire designed to melt when excessive current passes through it.
A “fusible link” described in repair manuals is actually an electrical wire of smaller diameter (and thus smaller electrical capacity) than the remainder of the wiring in the circuit in which it is designed to protect. A “fusible link” will melt before the rest of its wiring harness, thus acting as a fuse.
If you place the contacts of a voltmeter across a short piece of good electrical wire you will read zero volts, just as you would a good fuse, which is actually a short piece of wire.
P.S. Never use a short piece of wire to replace a fuse - you risk starting a fire.
Last edited by timemender; Sep 25, 2008 at 12:37 PM.















