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I wanted to get the part number for the wire pictured below. It is the piece that connects to the front hub assembly.
I've got the 1225 code and the female ends, just like Bill Curlee says, are bent and not making good contact. I'm not very good with cutting and splicing things so I wanted to find out what the cost is for the entire wire to be replaced.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by fasst ln
i wanted to get the part number for the wire pictured below. It is the piece that connects to the front hub assembly.
I've got the 1225 code and the female ends, just like bill curlee says, are bent and not making good contact. I'm not very good with cutting and splicing things so i wanted to find out what the cost is for the entire wire to be replaced.
What are the options for cutting and splicing a new female end onto the wire. Can I take the wire into a part store and they can most likely find a replacement plastic female end piece?....or is this GM specific and only GM has the correct piece?
Thanks,
Last edited by FASST LN; Oct 26, 2008 at 02:46 PM.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by FASST LN
Holy cow! $54 for that!?
It is a friggin' wire for goodness sakes!
What are the options for cutting and splicing a new female end onto the wire. Can I take the wire into a part store and they can most likely find a replacement plastic female end piece?....or is this GM specific and only GM has the correct piece?
Thanks,
It is a "dealer type item" (meaning GM) ONLY, and is more than just a "wire". It is a shielded wire harness assembly that can have a direct impact on how well (or how poorly) your ABS will work.
DO NOT buy from GMPartsDirect. Too expensive.
Contact forum vendor Fichtner Chev tomorrow at 1-800-234-5284 (ask for Bob in parts) or contact Gene Culley at GMPartHouse (also forum vendor). Their pricing will be much better.
I found out (by trial and error) that you can get a small jewlers screw driver and insert it into the FEMALE PIN and pry the "TONGUE" up so that it makes firm contact with the male pin. I have reciently done this on three C5 with excellent results. If the jumper harness is bad, its an easy swap in replacement. If the female connection on the K member is bad, you either need to try to pry up on the female pin tongue or cut and splice the connector with this:
The ONLY way to really know if the female connector is making proper contact with the male contact is fitting in a male pin and see how much grip there is on the male pin.
This is what I use. It a male terminal pin out of an emergency flasher switch ( took an old one apart) :
If there is a FIRM grip on the male pin, you will have a good connection. Some auto parts stores and the dealer sell replacement pins. See if you can find one of the same thickness and width.
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