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So if I get the kit from A&A, I wouldn't need to get an ARP bolt since it comes with a new GM bolt, right?
Mike G.
"Once the hole is drilled, the pin is inserted and the provided OE harmonic balancer bolt is inserted and tightened. Includes steel drilling fixture......"
Also shown in the picture.....from the link I posted......
The pin kit from A&A is for pinning from the front and the drilled hole
goes 1/2 on the crank and 1/2 on the pulley. Not the best IMHO but many many have used this method. I have heard that Andy will also lend out the kit but I have not called A & A yet.
There is also a drill kit from ATI that runs around $137.00
and it drills on the side of the crank snout. This is a better method but it requires the pulley to have a keyway machined. Some balancers come with a key way but the asp does not.
I am in the process of changing my pulley. I spun my asp 25% u/d and need to replace it so yes definitely pin it. I am also going to the ARP bolt because quite frankly the torque to yield required on the GM bolt is difficult to achieve. I think this is what caused my problem and in the many threads I have read most are unable to torque to the full amount of turn required and give up on it. The ARP bolt torques to 190 ft lbs and is replaceable. Definitely the way to go for another $30.00 or so.
Since we are both going to do it and we live close by, what do you say we split the cost of the ATI Fixture?
When I called ARP, they told me 190 lb-ft with their lube. As for the ATI kit, nice kit and either an ATI or Powerbond damper will work without machining as the keyway already exists in the hub.
Thanks for the correction. I edited my previous post
savage1
I was just curious as to whether you got a different number when you called as there is no directions when you buy the bolt. It wouldn't be the first time ARP has given out different numbers.
Next question, when I did a search I noticed some people talking about getting some tool from a guy on some LS1 website or make a similar one. Is this necessary? Is there any other way to install it without using the tool? Where can I get installation instuctions?
Next question, when I did a search I noticed some people talking about getting some tool from a guy on some LS1 website or make a similar one. Is this necessary? Is there any other way to install it without using the tool? Where can I get installation instuctions?
Thanks,
Mike G.
The pulley install tool is simply a threaded stud. You thread the stud all the way into the crank and use the nut (and washer) to drive the pulley onto the shaft. When the pulley is seated, unthread the stud and install your new bolt. No worries about stripping. I used this thing to install the pulley on my Z28. Of course heating the pulley helps as well.
I was just curious as to whether you got a different number when you called as there is no directions when you buy the bolt. It wouldn't be the first time ARP has given out different numbers.
I did not get the info from ARP, it came from another forum member.