I have installed a bleeder line to the slave and have bleed it several times without any change. The master and slave is completely stock, no changes.
I have a Mcleod master on the shelf so I will give it a try - much easier than taking the driveline down again

Thanks

 

I am using a stock 03 Z06 master and slave. I found the McLeod to have too much throw. The pedal did not want to go to the floor with the Mcleod master, it felt like the clutch springs were depressed as far as they would travel. Also my clutch releases with very little clutch pedal travel, as a guess less than 3" of travel (not measured).

 

Something sounds wrong with the install....possibly the slave not bled properly as others have mentioned.

With stock hydraulics the clutch you have should shift fine and grab a couple of inches off the floor. At low/moderate shifting speeds it should engage/disengage without any fuss and pull off reasonably clean shifts.

If your into speed shifting however this clutch really responds well to aftermarket hydraulics with larger piston bores in the clutch master (Tick Performnace, McLoed, etc.).

The key to that set-up being really kick azzzz is an adjustable pedal stop to limit travel because now the clutch will engage close to the top of the pedal....you don't need or want to extend it all the way to the floor....too much pedal travel (with a larger bore master) is no good and can actually damage the unit in extreme cases.

IMO, the higher engagement point from the install of aftermarket hydraulics is welcomed because now you can just breathe on the pedal cruising round town and pull off a clean smooth shift. When you go WOT and want to grab that gear in a hurry you can bang that pedal stop and grab gears quite quickly if your proficient at your craft....LOL Another bonus of the stop is less pedal travel which also aids faster shift times. Ive been driving high performance manual trans cars all my life and can bang em pretty quickly with the right clutch set-up.....without going to the larger hydraulics I could not consistently speed-shift my Street lite RPS twin with any type of confidence I would hit the next gear. You simply don't have a big enough "window" and enough clean plate disengagement with stock hydraulics (an issue not just specific to this clutch).

Same clutch with the McLoed master in it and I was styling......besides the slight extra effort in the pedal which you get used to in a couple of days, the shifting effort and ability to get off a fast shift confidently and consistently improves dramatically. Dont get me wrong, it still takes proper footwork and grabbing that gear at the right time, but is for more forgiving to possibly messing up either in the fraction of a second window you have to synchronize all of it.

For me, the upgrade to the larger master made an already good clutch set-up great and really completed the entire package....

Go re-bleed that master or ditch it for an aftermarket unit even better.....thats my nickels worth of free advice

-Tony

PS....Feel free to PM me for pricing or questions on any RPS related issues/product. I helped develop some of these components and used my own car as a test bed for numerous RPS clutch designs. The owner is a personal friend of mine and the company is obviously local to me.

 

I agree with Tony 100%! I have the pedal stop in my car too too. Tony sold me on this clutch and it is great unit!

Don

 

Problem solved - thanks for all input

I changed the stock master to my old Mcleod master and the adjustable clutch pedal stop I had been using with my Quarter master clutch and now everything works ok

 

Sweeeet....

The larger bore clutch master is really the hot lick with this clutch anyway. Ive been bugging a good buddy of mine to do it for the better part of a year and he recently finally took the plunge and now he's bragging how quickly he can shift it now etc!

He's kicking himself though for not following my advice a long time ago....LOL

Dennis.....I know your out there!

 

Curious if you found an issue with the stock one once you got it off.

 

Can Tony, or anyone else, please comment on the new RPS Organic Street Twin clutch offered by RPS and how it compares to the $2295 unit. After reviewing the RPS website; I'm not certain which unit is being referred to here as the Street Twin is $1695 and the RPS LSX BC2 is #2495. Which one is Tony commenting on?

 

I've been specifically commenting on the carbon street lite (the more expensive version) but my guess is everything I had to say also applies to the less expensive organic twin as well.

In fact most manufacturers larger diameter twin disc designs need more plate departure than a single to insure the discs aren't "dragging" (you have fours sides to consider now versus two) which is ultimately what prevents you from making clean fast speed shifts.....the larger master helps to give you that extra space between the discs, floater, cover, and flywheel.

Note that if you don't drive your car extremely hard and are not attempting to pull off shifts in minuscule tenths of a second, all off this is a mute point and the extra expense of a larger clutch master may be something you could easily pass on.

I will quote a friend of mine who is very satisfied with his RPS purchase and runs the street twin behind a blown 800+ RWHP C5 who opted to stay with the stock hydraulics after a conversation him and I had......and I quote "When you have 800+ horsepower to the tires it really doesn't matter how fast the guy in the other lane is shifting next to you".

Amen to that Glenn

Best advice with any clutch is to try it with the stock hydraulics first and see if you like it. Most people run it that way with no complaints....

-Tony

 

That master is now installed in a stock C5 - works perfect

So ... I have no idea why it did not work with the RPS

 

I've got the twin lite installed but my clutch engagement is ~1/2 off the floor board. It shifts ok but reverse is not perfect and clutch doesn't completely disengage as I the car moves forward when holding the clutch in and reving to ~3500 rpm. Anyone else experience this? I guess I can try an adjustable MC but I really don't want a heavier pedal than I currently have.

 

Install a larger master or break the clutch in a bit longer which will also have it engaging a bit higher.

BUT....it really is a better deal with the larger master.....the increase in pedal effort is slight and in a few days you dont even realize its there. Still very manageable as a daily driver....It will shift much easier at WOT and wont require much clutch stroke at all for lightweight easy low RPM shifts. Its like a new clutch with the larger bore and additional disengagement. Trust me on this....Ive done it and know others who also have.

Tick Performance or McLoed for the master cyl.....

If any of you have any questions or concerns with this clutch feel free to call or PM me anytime.

-Tony

 

I second Tony's comments!


Go Gator's!!

Don

 

Has anyone suffered tuning issues after installation of the RPS Lite? Following install of the Lite of have some bad surging/bucking issues at 1500-1900 rpm. I've pulled some timing in this area which helped a bit but now the engine is really flat and stumbles in that rpm range.

 

Actually that isn't specific to an RPS clutch....any lightweight lower inertia unit will be a bit more challenging to tune as the lighter weight has less inertia to smooth the engine a bit if the tune isn't quite right.

Of course blip the go pedal and the benefits of a lighter weight design is obvious but nothing is a free lunch as they say. Any clutch that has significantly less mass than stock will require a closer to optimal tune....no two ways around it and of course its worse with more overlap (bigger cam) for obvious reasons.

-Tony