Has anyone here been running the RPS carbon twin clutch in either regular weight or the lite version?

I am considering one and wanted to hear some feedback.

Happy Veterans to all Veterans!!!!!!!!

Don

 

Hi Don,

The RPS Twin Carbon is from the sixth clutches I had mounted in my car the best...



Christian

 

Don,

I was heavily involved in the design of this clutch and in fact used my car as the test vehicle for all the prototype real world testing (a period of almost 18 months from the first to final production). Suffice to say the time invested was worth every minute.

I have had close to a dozen clutches in my C5 over the years as power levels and combinations changed....this is by far the best clutch I have ever driven that will hold big power.

The goal of this clutch was a true performance street clutch with none of the various downsides some of the other clutches on the market exhibit....namely chatter (my personal biggest offender), balance issues (vibration in the shifter/driveline), on/off engagement (not a smooth release), noise/rattle when the clutch is depressed (common with multi-disc set-ups), groaning noise on engagement (not common but some do), and excessive pedal pressure (self explanatory).

I also value a lightweight low inertia set-up for more zing in the engine and more power to the rear wheels....the RPS is one if the slickest shifting clutches I have owned....only one or two others did as good a job in that department, but unfortunately also came with some of the downsides highlighted above.

I joked numerous times to Rob (the owner) that we were attempting to build the "holy grail" of clutches....honestly I think we achieved that goal and while few people own them due mainly do the cost prohibitive materials and subsequent higher price (carbon is expensive and costly to machine as well), the people that do have all raved about them.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions....I know this clutch inside and out.

Regarding which one is best for you, the lighter weight version will free up a few more ponies to the back tire, and be a little easier to pull off a fast shift at higher RPM. The less expensive version is probably the best "value" while the lightweight version (the one I run personally) is for guys looking for every edge to improve their ride and are willing to pay extra to get it. Either clutch will leave you smiling



Tony

 

Tony,

Thanks for your input. I just received my RPS twin but before I have it installed I have a few questions.

Do I need to use a "pedal stop"?
Should I use a stock or adjustable master?
How should it be broken in?
Any place I can find detailed install instructions?

Thanks,

-RR

 

The RPS twin doesn't require much different break in than any other new clutch....the more stop and go driving you can do before hammering it the better. One thing about carbon is it wears very slowly (a good thing except for the break in process) so if your pushing the combo close to its max torque capability (700-750 RWTQ), you had better take more time with the break in before going WOT.

The right question concerning the clutch master is to run stock or an aftermarket larger bore version like McLoed makes and another company that slips my mind right now. If you like cleaner disengagement (faster disengagement essentially) and a pedal that grabs closer to the top of the pedal travel a larger bore master is a good move (thats what I'm running) but note you will also have slightly more pedal effort with that situation (still mild enough for a DD). If you prefer the clutch to grab closer to the floor and want as light a pedal as possible the stock hydraulics would get the nod.

Pedal stop.....with the large bore master you could (and should) run a pedal stop IMO so you don't over-center the diaphragm at WOT shifts....plus I like the fact I can shorten my pedal travel for faster shifts at WOT due to the fact I normally judge my next gear change by the quick bottoming of the clutch pedal against the stop. With stock hydraulics you basically need the entire stock pedal travel to get a clean enough disengagement for driving the car hard....no pedal stop would be required. My suggestion is to install a remote bleeder when you do the clutch swap and try it with the stock hydraulics first and see if you like it. If you feel you wouldn't mind a little more pedal pressure and want a quicker, higher disengagement point, go with a large bore master at a later date. Its an easy swap and bleed process if you already have the remote bleeder installed.

Check the RPS website for specific instructions....its a pretty basic install and self explanatory when you disassemble everything prior to the install. Rob provides new flywheel bolts as well...its a complete kit. Just make sure you buy the remote bleeder when your in there, it will make your life much easier later when its time to bleed the system.

Regards,
Tony

PS....Any of you guys interested in an RPS product, feel free to shoot me a PM or a phone call. I might be able to save you a few bucks on a new unit as well.

 

Can this clutch be installed through the inspection cover or does the bellhousing have to come off as well?

 

Hi Bob,

Thru the inspection cover comfortably.

The biggest PITA clutch's to install that way are the larger diameter single disc (and a couple of full diameter dual disc's) options offered by some other companies.

The smaller diameter stuff gets in there no problem...no need to remove the bellhousing.

Regards,
Tony

 

Thinking ahead

 

Laying the groundwork for future spending huh Bob?!

 

Thanks for all the detailed info Tony; it's a big help.

-RR

 

I have been using this clutch for 3000 miles. I love the drivability of this clutch. Absolutely no chatter and nice smooth engagement. I had a Mcleod master in the car, it is not the correct master for this clutch. I reinstalled the factory master (2003 Z06). I drove the car as normal for break in, I did not detect any difference in performance before or after break in. As far as I can remember there was no difference in installation of this clutch, from stock. I have tried several clutches, this one is a keeper. I am producing 780 ft/lbs RWTQ, 850+ RWHP.

The bell housing on my 03 Z06 does not need removal, to install the RPS, it will install with the inspection cover removed.

 

Based on the recommendation (and good pricing) I got from Mr. Mamo, I am going with the twin lite myself for my new build. I have no doubt it will cure my high rpm shifting woes and still maintain perfect in-town "stock like" drivebility.

 

RPS "twin carbon lite" will be the next clutch for my 02 C5Z...no compromises

Wassup Tony

 

Thanks for all the help and feedback from everybody. Tony special thanks to you. Tony was real helpful in making my decision.

The twin lite is ordered!

Don

 

OK, I gotta ask.... what is the list price on one of the setups?

Just went FI and will be in the market in the not too distant future

 

The standard street twin is $2295....

The "lite" version which has an additional carbon surface, lighter weight clutch discs, and a much lighter pressure plate with a machined aluminum casting versus steel retails for $2795. Its about 6 lbs. lighter than the standard street twin (32 lbs. versus 38 lbs.)

Both units come with a true carbon floater as well....the few other "carbon" clutches on the market have steel floaters which tend to warp under heat, are more prone to chatter, and dont have as high a coefficient of friction as carbon on carbon which produces the most ideal results.

-Tony

PS....Google RPS clutches for some additional pics and information....they have a pretty good website.

 

Tony,

I just sent you an email...

Christian

 

Thanks for the info, I found the website and they look to be worth the extra cash. I'll file this info for later......

 

Bringing a old thread to life ...

I've just installed a RPS twin lite clutch, new stock master and new stock slave but have problems.

I can't get the clutch to disengage, with the pedal fully to the floor trying to get in gear the car start moving. I can get it in to gear with a LOT of force.

Do I need to shim the stock slave to make it work or have i missed something in the install ??

 

My guess it is not bled properly. On a C5 you do not need to shim the slave. I installed the Tick adjustable master cylinder and did the drilling of the orfices in the lines to an 1/8". Did you do any of this? Your stock slave might not be up to the new clutch.. You did replace the slave and master right? Mine has 3500 miles on it and it is flawless. Don