SOS! Please help! 2001 c5 with P1518 problem!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 181
Likes: 19
From: Rowlett Texas
SOS! Please help! 2001 c5 with P1518 problem!
If Bill Curlee or anyone else has had this problem please give me your advice. This first occured a couple of months ago, my wife and I were on a garage tour with the LSCC when suddenly the car died going down the road setting check engine light got the engine restarted it went to low power mode, stopped for a coke upon restart problem went away, a
few weeks later went to Eureka Springs and battery went dead at gas stop, installed new battery everything worked fine but the problem has occured twice since then.
I have just pulled coded codes this is what I found:
P1518H
28 TCS-C1278H
60 IPC-U1016H
80 Radio-U1016H
AO LDCM-B2282H B2286H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 RDCM-B2283H B2287H B2285H " " " "
BO RFA- U1016H
Any help with this problem is will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Richard
few weeks later went to Eureka Springs and battery went dead at gas stop, installed new battery everything worked fine but the problem has occured twice since then.
I have just pulled coded codes this is what I found:
P1518H
28 TCS-C1278H
60 IPC-U1016H
80 Radio-U1016H
AO LDCM-B2282H B2286H B2284H U1255H U1064H U1016H U1096H
A1 RDCM-B2283H B2287H B2285H " " " "
BO RFA- U1016H
Any help with this problem is will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Richard
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
P1518 PCM to TAC Module Serial Data Circuit.
I'm not sure about this at all. It would cause the problem I'm guessing. You need Bill for this.
I would write them all down as you've done, then clear them all and see what comes back.
Battery at full power.. did you measure it with a meter? Battery connections tight?
I'm not sure about this at all. It would cause the problem I'm guessing. You need Bill for this.
I would write them all down as you've done, then clear them all and see what comes back.
Battery at full power.. did you measure it with a meter? Battery connections tight?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,472
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
First of all, they are all history codes. A p1518 is normal (given the problem you've been having), and is thrown in a low battery voltage condition. I would start by physically inspecting the battery cables for corrosion and tightness. If they are tight, remove them from the battery and inspect closely for corrosion.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
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From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Many of those codes are power relatedI'd be looking at the battery. Make sure its not leaked and have an on load test. if it's the original its due replacement anyway. Check the battery leads are clean and tight when you put the battery back in.
Changing the battery is straight forward.
Disconnect the negative cable first
Disconnect the positive cable
Remove the battery hold down retainer bolt (13mm IIRC)
Lift out the battery
Clean the terminals before reconnecting
Reattach the positive cable and torque to 15 N-m (11 lb ft)
Reattach the negative cable and torque to 16 N-m (12 lb ft)
Reinsert the battery hold down retainer bolt and torque to 18 N-m (13 lb ft)
Don’t forget that if you have a stock radio, turn the security feature off before you disconnect or the radio will lock up.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 181
Likes: 19
From: Rowlett Texas
Thanks for the replies I will check the battery connections, but I think the problem is somewhere else because it happened again twice after new battery was installed. Can this thread be forwarded to Bill Curlee?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 251
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
codes
I have a 2002 coupe and had some of the same problems , i cleaned the battery cables like just like the post before me said. I also cleaned the ground wires under the dash on the drivers and passenger side , in the kick panels. I also clened the grounds under the hood on top of the frame rails.After cleaning the grounds the problems have not come back. Dont know if this will fix your problem but you might give it a try , it only take about 20 minutes to do.good luck
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I don't think he was being anything but desperate. I'm trying to fight a computer virus at the moment and I'm also DESPERATE! 
Power is a good place to start. Since you had a new battery installed and your having the same symptoms I would look at a problem with the serial data buss. The most COMMON area on C5's that cause issues like this is SERIAL DATA buss issues. The door wiring harnesses are the prime areas. Pop out BOTH door accordion tubes, fish the connectors out of the door frame and inspect the harnesses for bare wires. If you find any,,,bare wires,,,repair them... Then separate the connectors and inspect them for corrosion or damaged pins.
BC
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 181
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From: Rowlett Texas
Thanks Bill, well this "knucklehead" went out to check the battery connections I noticed some white powder on the washers under the battery holdown bolt so I decided to pull the battery out, I then noticed white powder on the frame rail in the center of the battery tray, so I pulled out the tray,"crap" there's acid powder all on the frame and harness, what a stupid place to locate a battery right over the ECM and its main wiring harness, I flushed the area with baking soda and water using a large syringe, I will check it out more tomorrow nite I don't know if the new battery is leaking(84 mo. Exide) or if the old battery did this. Bill I hope you get your "virus" fixed I think I'd rather have your problem, I'll keep you all posted.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Hey Bill, I'm the go-to guy out here when it comes to computers... usually when their dying or dead is when they come to me to fix. Can't complain too much as I just fixed someone's laptop that their kid dumped apple juice into it and fried the memory, altered the keyboard commands a bit and gummed up the DVD/RW drive....lol. If you need help there, best thing is to send it too me. No charge for you.
To the OP, please follow Bill's advice
To the OP, please follow Bill's advice
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you have an acid spill, it best to fight it FULL FORCE and all at once. Remove the battery, battery tray, PCM, TAC Module.
FLUSH the wiring harness and frame SEVERAL times with baking soda/water mix until the solution stops reacting.
PAINT THE FRAME Wire brush and sand the frame. Use a rust converter to kill the rust and prime and paint with a satin black paint from a well known paint manufacture ( like KRYLON or PPG )
CHECK ALL THE HARNESSES AND PLUGS. Pull the harnesses apart at the connectors and examine the wires and connections. Pull the PCM out of its aluminum frame. Check the PCM outer aluminum case for serious corrosion.
REPLACE THE VACUUM LINES. The vacuum is or will be compromised. If I were you,,,I would run another one to the back of the manifold and to the reservoir in the fender well.
Check the battery terminal crimp connections under the red and black plastic covers for corrosion. The leaking acid attacks there lots of times. Have seen lots of heavily corroded terminal crimps.
Hope this helps.
Bill
FLUSH the wiring harness and frame SEVERAL times with baking soda/water mix until the solution stops reacting.
PAINT THE FRAME Wire brush and sand the frame. Use a rust converter to kill the rust and prime and paint with a satin black paint from a well known paint manufacture ( like KRYLON or PPG )
CHECK ALL THE HARNESSES AND PLUGS. Pull the harnesses apart at the connectors and examine the wires and connections. Pull the PCM out of its aluminum frame. Check the PCM outer aluminum case for serious corrosion.
REPLACE THE VACUUM LINES. The vacuum is or will be compromised. If I were you,,,I would run another one to the back of the manifold and to the reservoir in the fender well.
Check the battery terminal crimp connections under the red and black plastic covers for corrosion. The leaking acid attacks there lots of times. Have seen lots of heavily corroded terminal crimps.
Hope this helps.
Bill
