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I highlighted on the above diagram what is known, and what is not. The mystery pin I circled needs to be known to measure the resistance through the motor.
All we are doing is trying to isolate the EBCM from the PUMP. Without a tech 2, you can't command on the pump, which in turn...does two things:
1) Makes sure the control circuit is working in the EBCM
2) Makes sure the pump is functioning.
i worked for bellsouth 31 years ,,when we say a solid ground ,its like taking your two leads of your volt meter and touching them together ,,,thats what i get on them
Wasn't targeting you. Just venting some frustration with the OP for starting multiple threads that tend to disjoint the discussion.
Bill
so bill can you add to this,,,,it seems like nobody knows where the voltage comes from powering the pump,,please read back and tell me what you think i can test furthure to prove my trouble
so bill can you add to this,,,,it seems like nobody knows where the voltage comes from powering the pump,,please read back and tell me what you think i can test furthure to prove my trouble
There should be a pig tail with two wires coming from the BPMV. If you measure across those two wires you should read a low resistance for the motor itself. The schematic shows the power for the pump motor coming from the System Relay inside the EBCM. There will be no voltage on this pin unless the EBCM is powered up and the EBCM self test indicates the system relay can close. This is Step 3 in the diagnostic I posted the other day http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-controll.html Post number 3. Since you do not have a Tech 2 and cannot command the system relay to close you will not be able to test this circuit unless you can figure out how to wire some small gauge test wires into the connector where the pigtail connector plugs into the EBCM so you can power up the unit in the car and read a voltage on the line. The diagnostic step indicates a test light but a DVM should be able to indicate whether or not there is some sort of voltage present. IF YOU TRY THIS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A WAY OF KEEPING THESE TWO WIRES FROM SHORTING TO THE FRAME OR YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER EBCM.
there is a plug right underneath the other large plug and it has two black wires,if this is the pump motor winding im looking at i see 18k olms and do i understand you?you want me to plug it back in stick the wire with a test light and ground the other side and have someone start the car and i should see voltage steady or for just a few seconds?thanks tony
i think i found a problem,,,if that two wire plug right inder the big conector is the pump motor winding,,i read 100 olms one side to ground on the terminal ,,,,does this mean my winding is bad grounded to the case?
i think i found a problem,,,if that two wire plug right inder the big conector is the pump motor winding,,i read 100 olms one side to ground on the terminal ,,,,does this mean my winding is bad grounded to the case?
From the diagnostic for C1214 Step 3:
3
Disconnect the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV at the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Does the DMM display the specified value? Over Limit
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4
Since you are reading 100 ohms that would indicate the BPMV should have been replaced at the same time you did the EBCM repair. A high resistance short to ground in the motor circuit would increase current through the system relay and possibly burn the relay contacts or cause an open circuit within the EBCM between the relay and the BPMV.
Since you are reading 100 ohms that would indicate the BPMV should have been replaced at the same time you did the EBCM repair. A high resistance short to ground in the motor circuit would increase current through the system relay and possibly burn the relay contacts or cause an open circuit within the EBCM between the relay and the BPMV.
Bill
so are you saying that two wire connector is the one?
do you have a picture of the pigtail?is tihs two wire connector the one for the motor ? Disconnect the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.the two wire connector im talking about is on the ebcm not the bpmv,,there is a three wire connector on the bpmv do you think the wire harness on the right here is the one? http://www.bustedcar.com/EBCM_001.jpg look at this???? they say three wires http://www.bustedcar.com/our_pictures1.htm if this is talking about the three wire connector on the bpmv then its good ,no grounds reaDisconnect the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV at the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
d
Last edited by tonycorvettes; Dec 3, 2008 at 08:45 PM.
? also it looks like that 2 wire connector on the ebcm goes out and back in the other side to the pump?i dont know,,,anybody ever had one of these in there hands?
Since you are reading 100 ohms that would indicate the BPMV should have been replaced at the same time you did the EBCM repair. A high resistance short to ground in the motor circuit would increase current through the system relay and possibly burn the relay contacts or cause an open circuit within the EBCM between the relay and the BPMV.
i was looking at the internal connector seeing these grounds,maybe they belong there,looking the other way on the wire pigtail that looks like it goes to the other side where the pump is,that direstion is clean
You can just do a to the top post. I do not have any pictures of the unit and my car isn't where I can get to it for several days. If the two wire harness is the only one coming out of the BPMV it should by elimination be the one that goes to the motor. The schematic only shows two wires coming out of the BPMV.
the two wires ,i have been talking about are the pump motor,,,,i opened the connector up and put 12v bat and grd on them and the pump runs ,,,,,,,,now when i look the other direction from the connector from the ebcm i have the wife start the car and i see 12v on one side but i dont see a grd on the other just some battery ,,,what do you think about that? does your information show i should get a ground from where ?maybe its the ebcm i just got back from absfixers thats bad,go figure?
Last edited by tonycorvettes; Dec 3, 2008 at 11:44 PM.
the two wires ,i have been talking about are the pump motor,,,,i opened the connector up and put 12v bat and grd on them and the pump runs ,,,,,,,,now when i look the other direction from the connector from the ebcm i have the wife start the car and i see 12v on one side but i dont see a grd on the other just some battery ,,,what do you think about that? does your information show i should get a ground from where ?maybe its the ebcm i just got back from absfixers thats bad,go figure?
Applying 12V to the motor and having it run doesn't necessarily mean it is good. The resistance from the pump circuits to the BPMV has to be infinite. You said you had 100 ohms from the circuit to the case before. That is too low. Looking at the EBCM where the pigtail attaches you should see 12V coming from the system relay when the car is on at the one connector pin on the EBCM. However, the other pin will be floating. If you look at the schematic that was linked before you will see there is a switch between that point and the ground wire that goes to G103 (the black wire with the eyelet you were looking at before). The EBCM throws that switch when the ABS system goes active during a braking, TC or AH mode. The pump does not run all the time. Only when it is required. You need a Tech 2 or equivalent scanner to command that switch closed.
I will be traveling the next 4 days and will be back Monday.
ok,i told you wrong on the reading of step 3 bill,sorry,,,3
Disconnect the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Measure the resistance between each pump motor control circuit and the housing of the BPMV at the pump motor harness pigtail connector of the BPMV.
Does the DMM display the specified value?
Over Limit
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4
i get no resistNCE reading at all ,LIKE AN OPEN,reading the two wires to the motor to the housing,i would think thats what i should get,,and i put 12 volts on the motor,it runs great,,so what step 4 and 5 whats next ,what do you think bill or mike or anyone else thanks tony