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Legendary Problem Solved....

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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #41  
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My thanks are directed to all who participated in the resolution......Now if I could find out if the CLB will "reactivate" my fuel pump???
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:50 AM
  #42  
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Thanks guys, I've fixed it, I didn't believe anything could change because when I opened the fob it all seemed rock solid, but I've pushed it a little and now everything works.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #43  
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Could this also be why my passenger door does not UN-lock with the fob?
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by OBSESHON Mark
Could this also be why my passenger door does not UN-lock with the fob?
Actually, I think the passenger side door not opening on first activation is pretty standard fare for fobs. It may be a safety feature (for all I know), but I noticed that with my 2000 Vette, the wife's 07 Azera and my 06 F-150, the passenger side only unlocks if I hit the fob at least twice.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #45  
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back from the dead i know.. but amazing thread. thanks for saving me money op
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 01:29 AM
  #46  
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Im inspecting mine right now, also looks to be intact at all spots but Im gonna give er some solder anyhow.
Ill let know how it goes.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #47  
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My 98's fob suddenly stopped working, i figured the battery must have died so went and got a new one (a 2450) and stuck that in. No change. Holding Lock/Unlock did not get it going. The 'FOB Learn' thing using the last Options page, and holding the Lk+UnLK did not work either.

Saw this thread and, before going to the trouble of soldering anything, just 1) cleaned the battery terminals on the board and then 2) noticed that, possibly when inserting the new battery, i had dislodged the battery terminal slightly, in the fob half that holds that battery.

Did the 'learn' thing again, and all is good. The 'learn' took longer than I expected, had to hold the Lk + UnLk for at tleast 30 seconds, before it prompted for the second fob. At tat point i just turned the key off.

So maybe that will save a few folks doing more than they may need (clean terminals on board in one half of fob, make sure the prongs are in position too, in other half)

- Cheers
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #48  
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As an EE, I'm actually mad at myself for not checking this earlier. Sure enough- mine are loose on the top right chip...

I love this forum.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 06:16 PM
  #49  
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I'll have to check mine when I get time.

Good work and thanks for sharing
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #50  
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Turns out mine is losing its programming, the fix I posted wasn't enough. Also, something is rattling?

So.. Onwards with the excellent soldering solution suggested, after all.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:31 AM
  #51  
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OK guys someone took me up on my offer to repair one so I could play with it. Here's the photographic journey, I applogize in advance I'm not a great photographer and do not have a Macro lense.

Disassembled

Here's one problem, the Top Two Carbon buttons on the faceplate were very dirty as were the corresponding contacts on the board

Oh yeah, I took the Passive Switch out and scrubbed it. It was filthy as they all get

OK crappy pics time. I probed each and every joint on the board and only two had cold solder joints, the Top and Bottom legs on the far right




On the operating table!


All fixed



So I recommend tearing the fob down completely and cleaning the Carbon buttons and contacts for the faceplate, checking the contacts for the battery for allignement and cleaniness and probing for cold/broken solder joints. There was evidence of some moisture behind the faceplate so that may explain the diry carbon buttons/contacts.

We'll have to see how long it lasts, I've asked the owner to step in to keep us up to date.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #52  
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I'm the proud owner of the filthy key fob...but I will plead innocent as I just bought the car about 2 weeks ago!

In any event, I want to publicly thank TStar for his gracious offer to fix the fob. Great camaraderie on this site!!!

I'll let everyone know how the fix holds up over the coming weeks.

Thanks, John
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:51 AM
  #53  
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They all get dirty like that John. That Passive switch is a dirt magnet!

Tim
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #54  
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I have the cleaned fob back from tstar, and happy to report that it seems to be as good as new! Clean those contact points!
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 10:03 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by tstar
They all get dirty like that John. That Passive switch is a dirt magnet!

Tim
No kidding. I just recently took mine apart and cleaned it too.

Instead of throwing them away, I always keep a couple old toothbrushes for scrubbing/cleaning small stuff and I used one on the dirty empty case and plastic switch slide with a little soap and water. Rinsed it off and dried with a blow dryer before reassembly. A little alcohol on a Q-Tip for the dirty carbon contacts and good to go.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #56  
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Problem is Donnie, SG isn't conductive.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 04:16 PM
  #57  
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thanks for info.i will check mine out,been having issues with it too
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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 07:46 AM
  #58  
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FYI for you guys not comfortable with soldering at this level, JW Motoring is thinking about adding this as a service... if you think it's a worthwhile service to offer PM Jhonathan_W and let him know!

Tim
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #59  
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I sent a pm to the above mentioned member.

Is there anyone else out there that would be willing to do the soldering for me. I am located in TN and would mail or bring it to you if your close. Any help is much appreciated.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:51 AM
  #60  
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PM sent...
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