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I guess I understand why soldering is required when the fob doesn't work. But what it the solution when there is no apparent soldering required, the fob works but needs to be retrained every time you come back to the car?
I guess I understand why soldering is required when the fob doesn't work. But what it the solution when there is no apparent soldering required, the fob works but needs to be retrained every time you come back to the car?
Check your DTCs and see what comes up. If there are a ton of old DTCs, clear them. The next time the FOB needs re=synced, read the DTCs and see whats there.
with a magnifying glass. But would a hairline crack allow the fob to work once trained but not again when you next came back to the car unless you trained it again?
with a magnifying glass. But would a hairline crack allow the fob to work once trained but not again when you next came back to the car unless you trained it again?
A magnifying glass? Nope...not going to get it done. I'm not sure why you would not try to touch up the solder joints, but if that's an issue for you, than just go buy a new FOB.
Often times a cold solder joint looks fine, probe it and it'll pop right off the pad... Using your logic, which components would store "Training Memory" ?? Certainly not a resistor... More then likely the main chip no?
Probe each and every solder joint on the PCB and repair any that fail the probe test... That's the only reliable way to test for cold solder joints.As LUcky indicated these "home grown" repairs have been very successful. No one has the schematics for the FOB, the OP got down to business, rolled up his sleeves and solved this nagging problem for us.
FYI Lucky is EXTREMELY knowledgable and is well respected here as is Bill Curlee... If you come across with a knee jerk comment or obviously haven't even tried using the search function, he'll call you on it! They are like Good cop Bad cop!
I want to thank all the members who have taken the time to not only do the research but go out of their way to help other members. My FOB went down, I don't think it liked being tossed on the ground with a heavy band of keys. I resigned myself to the fact that I would have to buy a new one. I did the research on here and found so many helpful threads that I decided to try and fix it myself. Went to Norther Tool and spent less than $12 for soldering iron, solder and a magnifying stand with clips to hold it in place. Cleaned and re soldered the areas that were suggested and it works like a charm.
Came across this today as both of mine are currently down. One went through the wash so there may be no hope...BUT ya, same thing where I had to retrain it everyday after new battery.
Is there someone that would do it for for some money if I sent them? I have no experience with solder irons whatsoever
if anyone's not comfortable soldering, i'll repair the solder joints for free if you want to send them to me. i'm certified to do inspect and repair on stuff like this
Is this offer still on the table, never solder before in my life, and not comfortable at all.
OK guys someone took me up on my offer to repair one so I could play with it. Here's the photographic journey, I applogize in advance I'm not a great photographer and do not have a Macro lense.
Disassembled
Here's one problem, the Top Two Carbon buttons on the faceplate were very dirty as were the corresponding contacts on the board
Oh yeah, I took the Passive Switch out and scrubbed it. It was filthy as they all get
OK crappy pics time. I probed each and every joint on the board and only two had cold solder joints, the Top and Bottom legs on the far right
On the operating table!
All fixed
So I recommend tearing the fob down completely and cleaning the Carbon buttons and contacts for the faceplate, checking the contacts for the battery for allignement and cleaniness and probing for cold/broken solder joints. There was evidence of some moisture behind the faceplate so that may explain the diry carbon buttons/contacts.
We'll have to see how long it lasts, I've asked the owner to step in to keep us up to date.
Looking at my fob boards neither one of mine have that little sliver tube with the blue paint on the top left hand side.I have a 2000 vette, can this be the problem why my fobs do not work, or depending on the fob.
Many information will be helpful thanks.
The soldering trick worked for me!!! Mine would work and then after 5 minutes would have to be re-synced. After 10 minutes of taking it apart and soldering as the picture showed...back in business.
I looked at the thread and then at my fob. I do belive that those connections could be the problem. I will try to fix it this weekend. I don't need it so much now but I hate to throw stuff away. A spare can't hurt anything.