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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #81  
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i have to try this possible fix for myself. i will post back if it works, great thread.....!
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #82  
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I guess I understand why soldering is required when the fob doesn't work. But what it the solution when there is no apparent soldering required, the fob works but needs to be retrained every time you come back to the car?
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Bobothree
I guess I understand why soldering is required when the fob doesn't work. But what it the solution when there is no apparent soldering required......
....and how are you making this determination....by looking at it? Not always easy to see fractured solder joint with the naked eye.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Bobothree
I guess I understand why soldering is required when the fob doesn't work. But what it the solution when there is no apparent soldering required, the fob works but needs to be retrained every time you come back to the car?

Check your DTCs and see what comes up. If there are a ton of old DTCs, clear them. The next time the FOB needs re=synced, read the DTCs and see whats there.

BC
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #85  
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with a magnifying glass. But would a hairline crack allow the fob to work once trained but not again when you next came back to the car unless you trained it again?
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Bobothree
with a magnifying glass. But would a hairline crack allow the fob to work once trained but not again when you next came back to the car unless you trained it again?
A magnifying glass? Nope...not going to get it done. I'm not sure why you would not try to touch up the solder joints, but if that's an issue for you, than just go buy a new FOB.

Good luck.
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 04:28 AM
  #87  
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Often times a cold solder joint looks fine, probe it and it'll pop right off the pad... Using your logic, which components would store "Training Memory" ?? Certainly not a resistor... More then likely the main chip no?

Probe each and every solder joint on the PCB and repair any that fail the probe test... That's the only reliable way to test for cold solder joints.As LUcky indicated these "home grown" repairs have been very successful. No one has the schematics for the FOB, the OP got down to business, rolled up his sleeves and solved this nagging problem for us.

FYI Lucky is EXTREMELY knowledgable and is well respected here as is Bill Curlee... If you come across with a knee jerk comment or obviously haven't even tried using the search function, he'll call you on it! They are like Good cop Bad cop!

Tim

Last edited by tstar; Jun 23, 2010 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by vettesplus
i have to try this possible fix for myself. i will post back if it works, great thread.....!
did not work for me...oh well, time to buy a new fob......
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 02:25 PM
  #89  
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Default Fob

I want to thank all the members who have taken the time to not only do the research but go out of their way to help other members. My FOB went down, I don't think it liked being tossed on the ground with a heavy band of keys. I resigned myself to the fact that I would have to buy a new one. I did the research on here and found so many helpful threads that I decided to try and fix it myself. Went to Norther Tool and spent less than $12 for soldering iron, solder and a magnifying stand with clips to hold it in place. Cleaned and re soldered the areas that were suggested and it works like a charm.

Thanks to all that posted
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 02:43 AM
  #90  
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Came across this today as both of mine are currently down. One went through the wash so there may be no hope...BUT ya, same thing where I had to retrain it everyday after new battery.

Is there someone that would do it for for some money if I sent them? I have no experience with solder irons whatsoever
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #91  
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What year is your Vette? I could do it for you but I have a 2000. I would do it and test it against my car but that depends on your year.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #92  
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Bought a fob off ebay for 12 bucks. Sync to car and everything works great!

AL
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by alankb
Bought a fob off ebay for 12 bucks. Sync to car and everything works great!

AL
Cheater...

No seriously, nice find.
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #94  
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He had many, not just one of a kind.
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by spoolin7
if anyone's not comfortable soldering, i'll repair the solder joints for free if you want to send them to me. i'm certified to do inspect and repair on stuff like this
Is this offer still on the table, never solder before in my life, and not comfortable at all.

Thanks
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 09:46 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by tstar
OK guys someone took me up on my offer to repair one so I could play with it. Here's the photographic journey, I applogize in advance I'm not a great photographer and do not have a Macro lense.

Disassembled

Here's one problem, the Top Two Carbon buttons on the faceplate were very dirty as were the corresponding contacts on the board

Oh yeah, I took the Passive Switch out and scrubbed it. It was filthy as they all get

OK crappy pics time. I probed each and every joint on the board and only two had cold solder joints, the Top and Bottom legs on the far right




On the operating table!


All fixed



So I recommend tearing the fob down completely and cleaning the Carbon buttons and contacts for the faceplate, checking the contacts for the battery for allignement and cleaniness and probing for cold/broken solder joints. There was evidence of some moisture behind the faceplate so that may explain the diry carbon buttons/contacts.

We'll have to see how long it lasts, I've asked the owner to step in to keep us up to date.
Looking at my fob boards neither one of mine have that little sliver tube with the blue paint on the top left hand side.I have a 2000 vette, can this be the problem why my fobs do not work, or depending on the fob.
Many information will be helpful thanks.
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 02:59 AM
  #97  
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No, that is the "rattle can" that provides the passive feature found only on the 97 - 99 Fobs.

Shoot me a PM if you still need someone to look at soldering/repairing your circuit board.

Tim
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #98  
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The soldering trick worked for me!!! Mine would work and then after 5 minutes would have to be re-synced. After 10 minutes of taking it apart and soldering as the picture showed...back in business.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #99  
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I love this site! My 99 frc fob had 2 points that needed re-soldering. Looks like it never really got a good solder connection to begin with.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #100  
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I looked at the thread and then at my fob. I do belive that those connections could be the problem. I will try to fix it this weekend. I don't need it so much now but I hate to throw stuff away. A spare can't hurt anything.
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