LOL.
I fix the machines that make microchips.

 

Just like to say another satisfied Corvette owner with a working FOB again thanks to the solution in this forum!!!!!

I was having issues of phantom lock/locking after using the FOB to lock or unlock the door. The passive system was OFF since I bought the car so this was not the issue. Also, the trunk release on the FOB was only working from right next to the gas filler door.

Took the soldering iron with a tiny bit of solder to the 2 big chips on the circuit board and all their contact points and now the FOB works without having to crush the buttons and the trunk releases from across the garage when pressed.
Thank You Corvette Forum & the OP
:roc k:

 

Thanks guys! I was having this issue, and was about to try a new Fob or bcm, but I just re-solderer the board and its working perfect! My connections looked ok but I just did it anyways and im glad I did.

 

Just opened mine up and what do ya know, the two points are broke on one side Anybody got a iron?


Picked up a iron at Radio Shack, 8$ Kit with everything. The FOB works now! Thanks, yall saved me about $130!

 

Two fobs, both inop won't hold memory or work at all. Soldered both in the 6 places shown, both fobs work like new. Thank you for the info.

 

I've had same issues everyone has talked about. I found what looks like a small capacter located at the top left was loose. I resoldered the joint but the piece rattles now. Does anyone know what this piece is or what you can replace it with? The part in this photo has a blue mark on it. I'll post pictures of mine if no one chimes in. Thanks.

 

That's the "Rattle Can" and is supposed to do exactly as you have described. From what I've gathered it's what allows the Passive feature to operate by activating the FOB anytime movement sets it off...

Tim

 

read this post, went to walmart to get a solder gun (never done solder, ever). Quickly realized that I have a drinking problem while trying to hold my shaking hand straight on the tiniest piece of crap known to man. Gave it a test run and I'llllll be. It works. Thanks.

 

Good job Alky...

Tim

 

Wow I was so excited when I found this thread. I have been without the use of a fob for about 2 years, it started with distance then the window valet stop working. that's when I figured pull the window valet. re-sync the fobs and I should be good . I also replaced the batt. after working for a day it lost the Memory. I re trained it and it worked for less time. I bought a new/used fob from a forum member and had the same results.
So far I have had no luck. during the course of the years I have tried different things and at the point of FRUSTRATION. Then On Monday I ran into this, on Tuesday I went to my cousins tech shop. I took with me two fobs and one new battery. with a magnifying stand and a fine point soldering pen he and I inspected all 6 points nothing was broken or disconnected . we re-solder the six points anyway. at the end of work I came home couldn't wait to try it. it didn't work SH*T WTF. that's how I felt. and right now wondering what will be my next step. I wont be able to work on this until the weekend but I hope with a more calmer head and less excitement, I can retrain it and teach it to work.

would anyone know if a defective TPMS would keep the RFA from learning the fob? or keep it from working?
Thanks for Sharing I am most proud to be a member of this forum. You guys are really Great.

 

Hello Im back again. over the weekend I wanted to see if I could get the fob to work. I re trained the TPMS then I moved on to the Fod training seson I was able to learn the first fob the 2nd one would not learn at all. I turn the key off and tried the 1st fob and it worked. while I was standing by the car. then I walked away for about 5minutes tried the fob again and it did not work. I cant get this thing to hold a memory. I did all of the cleaning and soldering that is explained in this thread. and I still cant get it to work. all of my TPMS are now working fine. any ideas?

 

It seems alot of people are only testing and resoldering the joints shown in the OPS original pics. Those just happened to have been the ones that were loose on HIS car, you may have different joints somewhere else on the FOB board. Probe each and every joint and reflow any that you suspect may be bad or just reflow each and every joint on the board!

Tim

 

I fail to mention, that I did touch up all of the other points. now I'm just wondering could it be in the car it's self? because I'm only able to temp train one fob.Then again I question myself why would it be in the car's equipment. maybe I should just break down and buy a new Fob and start over.

 

Did this myself and it fixed the FOB. I was going to mention the dirt I found between the button contacts and PCB, but it looks like that's already been covered.

 

Another satisfied customer... Hit the points the OP showed us to hit, and got nothing, pulled it appart again, hit all the points on the board, and it synced up just fine.

Thanks a million!

 

Add me to the list of satisfied customers

My car/fob has been losing it's sync overnight for years, I don't know why I never searched for a fix before now.

 

My Keyfob came with my 99 Vette it never worked and looks nothing like your FOBs I see in the posts here is mine. The back of the FOB reads GM:15008008 FCC ID: MYT3X6898B

 

no one?

 

Gotta ask a question to get an answer. lol

 

Yes you do lol, I didn't even realize that I never asked if what I have is even the correct FOB but thats what I am wondering.