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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by 99StormTrooper
Yes you do lol, I didn't even realize that I never asked if what I have is even the correct FOB but thats what I am wondering.
haha. Im sure it could work if it has the same cold solder issue. Step one, get a new battery step 2 touch your iron to all of the contacts, step three, put it back together and resync.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #142  
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Sticky worthy ?????
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #143  
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Well I changed the battery the first day, second I'm an electronics tech and put it under the magnifier and used my volt meter and everything seem secure and got a good signal so I don't know what the problem is and might just buy a new one with a trunk button anyways.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by 99StormTrooper
Well I changed the battery the first day, second I'm an electronics tech and put it under the magnifier and used my volt meter and everything seem secure and got a good signal so I don't know what the problem is and might just buy a new one with a trunk button anyways.
Trust me, just touch an iron to all the contacts. There is a very good chance it will come right back. It's a cold solder issue.
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #145  
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Well I took the iron to it and it still doesn't work ohhh well I will just order a new one.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #146  
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Unless your are soldering expert, with a capitol E, forget it. No way to do this at the small level it has to be accomplished. Save your money on soldering irons and stuuff. Go buy a new one or live without it.

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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #147  
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Is anyone out there resoldering/repairing these for a fee?
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:19 AM
  #148  
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I think we're (JW Motoring) still offering the service... If not, shoot me a PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 10:38 PM
  #149  
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THANK YOU !!! Just found this thread, did it, and after two weeks of no fob and being on the page to order a new fob I am now working!!! Thank you so darn much!!!
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 09:21 AM
  #150  
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Gonna have to give this a shot. My fob stopped working last weekend and I changed the battery out but it still doesn't work. Thanks for all the info.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 11:32 AM
  #151  
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I have same FOB problem for my 2000 corvette just purchased this year. No apparent problems inside FOB however it will lose sync after 48hrs of inactivity. Everything fine after resync. FOB has new battery. Dealer has provided info as follows from service manual.

Each transmitter has a unique vehicle access code that changes every 5 seconds. After programming the transmitter, the receiver will update this code every 5 seconds to match the code programmed in the transmitter. The transmitter may get out of sync if any of the following occurs:
- transmitter battery is disconnected
- vehicle battery is disconnected
- transmitter and vehicle are separated for 2 weeks or more
- receiver is disconnected

This suggests that there is ongoing syncronization going on between transmitter and vehicle (point 3) which seems strange to me. Both units are incrementing the code every 5 seconds yet they are getting out of sync. I was going to order a new FOB but maybe the problem is with the receiver (weak signal?). I only have one FOB therefore cannot rule out which unit is to blame. Previous owner gave up and used key only.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 11:36 PM
  #152  
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Subscribed!
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 03:53 PM
  #153  
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I did this over year ago when mine stopped working. After the solder it worked great. It just stopped working again today. I just resold soldered it again and it works perfectly.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 10:47 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by 00Corvette
Would the glue actually work the same or is it way better to solder it?

Thanks so much!

Just curious because a super glue tip is perfect for that tight spot...

Donnie
It would be way better to solder it. Since I just got my vette and the key fob battery is dead, I'm gonna take a look at this before I grab a new battery.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by chips*dad
Actually, I think the passenger side door not opening on first activation is pretty standard fare for fobs. It may be a safety feature (for all I know), but I noticed that with my 2000 Vette, the wife's 07 Azera and my 06 F-150, the passenger side only unlocks if I hit the fob at least twice.
Go into the DIC and i think you can change it from unlocking just the drivers door to unlocking both at least mine does.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 11:32 PM
  #156  
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So p1&&3d at myself!!!! Took my fob apart that wouldn't work, cleaned throughout, put in New battery for good measure, and soldered top four connections on the left hand side, went out side and reset and guess what? It worked! But it was slow, and I had to press extremely hard, so I thought well I'll fix the remaining of the 16 connections, I was doing well till a glob of solder fell in between two of the contacts and i couldn't remove their new connection. Well carp, reassembled the fob, went outside and nothing! Oh well I guess nothing ventured nothing gained. Still steamed though
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #157  
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I am glad my fob works well, that soldering looks like a higher skill set than my own

What I was wondering was the possibility of dipping the circuit board in epoxy to prevent future connection failures, and avoid loose circuit connections

I know this "epoxy circuit board " is used in military spec stuff, but have no working knowledge of any way to do this, or if would destroy everything or even if is it a good idea

Any ideas?
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 01:28 AM
  #158  
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When I bought my Vette last spring the original owner gave me both original remotes, but said one wasn't working. I didn't worry too much about it because the other was good and I'm the only one that drives it. Saw this post and figured I'd take a peak inside. the solder joint exactly like in this picture on mine was loose. Resoldered it and resync with car and it works perfect now!!

It was this same joint....



Thanks!!!!


Tyler
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by C599
Must be Xmas time. I figured out the issue with the famous key fob problem of it loosing sync with the cars. Turns out it's a problem with one of the chips coming detached from the circuit board.

When you open the key fob with the board facing you, look near the top right hand corner. There's a rectangle shaped chip, check the prongs. I checked mines both times when each of my remotes wouldn't keep sync with the car, each time it was loose.

I resolder it or you can even use permanent glue between the chip & board to hold it firm if you're not comfortable with soldering. Make sure the prongs have a good connection. Sorry that I haven't taken any pics, but it's pretty much straight forward.

Yeah, I know my atar is big, but I put it in at normal size & it keeps blowing up to the huge size. Yeah, I've resized it, lower resolution. I'll play with it some more later when time permits.
I haven't had time to be on in quiet a while. Will this problem cause the car to ack like it is starting then not. My 2004 runs for a quick second then shuts off. Does it with both keys, dealer told me it could be the computer has lost the key signal. I don't want to take it to the dealer. Can anyone help?
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by Rexbo04
I haven't had time to be on in quiet a while. Will this problem cause the car to ack like it is starting then not. My 2004 runs for a quick second then shuts off. Does it with both keys, dealer told me it could be the computer has lost the key signal. I don't want to take it to the dealer. Can anyone help?
This post is for the fob not the key.

pull your dtc codes.

Clean the chip on your key.

Change your sparkplugs or fuel pump?
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