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Thanks for the reply, that kinda' what I thought, but it was a start. I'll take your sugestions in order. I did pull the DTC codes and one came up P0101, Mass airflow circuit. Everything I looked up, that code will not prevent starting. Now I suspect the fuel pump. I believe it is the original one from new. The car was only 1 year old when I bought it.
Thanks for the reply, that kinda' what I thought, but it was a start. I'll take your sugestions in order. I did pull the DTC codes and one came up P0101, Mass airflow circuit. Everything I looked up, that code will not prevent starting. Now I suspect the fuel pump. I believe it is the original one from new. The car was only 1 year old when I bought it.
Usually if there is a problem with the resistor in the key itself you will see the theft deterrent message
Would it be possible to use a 400 degree oven to reflow the cold solder joints all at once? I know I repaired my ps3 motherboard that way.
I feel confident a temperature that high for a long enough period to heat the solder joints would cause electronic components to fail. Not a good idea.
Usually if there is a problem with the resistor in the key itself you will see the theft deterrent message
Thanks, I went back over everything I have to date and trying to prioritize what to work first. Both keys have the same effect. As I said before, the car will fire of and try to run for a milli-second. (either key). I do have the "service Colume Lock" and "remove key, wait 10 seconds". I read the FAQ sticky post about the service colume lock and it seems the right set of conditons could have power shut off to the fuel system, making mr think it is the fuel pump. I used both my code reader and the diagnostics of my Predator tuner. The car did have te recall, (with the factory tune loaded), and sitting in the garage, with the key out, the steering wheel is not locked. It sounds like I need to work the colume lock first. I do not want to take this to the dealer. I think maybe print some of this stuff off and work through it a step at a time. Thanks to all the knowledgable people on this forum. this thing is not going to beat me and I will share my findings.
Just did the re-soldering yesterday on my FOB that's been dead for over a year. Amazing ... like magic! The six points in the photo above on my FOB looked fine and nothing was loose ... but now my FOB is working like new. I have access to a Lab at work where there's a lighted magnifying glass and fine tip soldering iron. Like someone said, I just melted a small spec of solder on the tip of the iron and then held it on one of the suspect connectors for about 2-3 seconds. Repeat for each connector in the picture above. Thanks for the photo, helped to know precisely what connector to deal with.
Last edited by somefunthunder; Jul 12, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
I just wanted to drop a quick note to say thank you for all the great information. With your help, I replaced the relays in the driver door control module and fixed both key fobs!
PROBLEM SOLVED. I soldered the 4 points even though they were not broken. PROBLEM RESOLVED. It don't make sense. Don't know why but my only answer is possibly the solder is bad on the board.
Now, at first when I did the re-training. Nada. Then when I walked away from the car it locked on it's on. So, the remote was detected. I mashed the alarm button and the alarm went off. So, I went back to my volt meter and checked the circ board and other joints. I remember reading all of the other Remote posts. Decided to put it back together and wait 'til the morning. In the morning, I did the following:
I just bought a 97 and the FOB didn't work. Checked the battery and the connections and cleaned it. I followed the Reset instructions from the link and all is good. Now I need to get an owners manual so I can figure out the rest of the cool things on the car. Thanks for the good post.
Out of business on my FOB keeping sync. Can anyone confirm the soldering instructions?? Specifically, I'm assuming that I need to add solder to the 6 points shown in the picture near the beginning of the thread. I don't just don't touch the soldering gun to the existing solder on the FOB.
If you really think your going to touch a "solder gun" to the tiny components on the circuit board and not smoke everything, think again. You need a fine point soldering pen. Put a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the pen and then touch the pen to the solder joints just long enough to flow the solder on the board. If you use a solder gun you will likely lift the copper traces from the board and destroy the FOB. Your going to need a magnifying glass as well to be able to see exactly what you are touching the solder pen to.
I think the cold has finally gotten to your noggin Bill, no one is going to buy a full blown Pace kit to repair a FOB and your video isn't working Huckleberry!
I have a similiar variable solder/desolder/hot air gun ESD safe station with all the goodies like heated tweezers and vaccume attachments to pick up components ect. like that .pdf file but seriously a decent low wattage pen with a sharp point, lit magnifying glass for us older guys will get the job done with some patience...
Hi, Mark
When I look at the red dot points on your photo under magnification on my remote, they LOOK okay. Do you think they might still be bad.......like "cold-soldered" joints?? I have a '98 C5 with GM remote No. 10253839. It worked when I got it, then just quit. Battery is new. Your thoughts much appreciated! One of the symptoms first exhibited was that I had to push the buttons extra hard to make them respond..........then they stopped working, altogether.
Geoff
P.S. I'm fairly new using the Forum , so hope I am doing this right!
Originally Posted by Fasthotrod
That would make sense... I just took mine apart and studied the circuit. It appears that one of the battery (+) legs goes up to the two legs on that chip, through the chip, then down to two pins on the main chip.
Maybe that is a memory feature of some kind? I think the FOB's have a rolling code, so maybe this is what keeps track of the codes as it rolls over?!?!
I just took my FOB down to the lab and hit those points with some solder. If it works, I'll report back.
I had a fob that wouldn't sync up at all and I had nothing to lose so I did this fix and it works like new again! When I pulled my fob apart there was no indication through a magnifier that any point was loose but I did what was suggested and just hit the said 6 points with a solder iron and it fixed it.
just tacked mine I'm hoping that's gona fix it. have 2 fobs here that don't work. im worried that this car had a security system in it at some point that someone took out.
Hello. I have also this problem with key fobs loosing connection with the RFA on my 1999 vette. I bought a brand new key fob including an new battery and was hoping it would work for a long time, but it only lasted one week, today it needed to resync. Is it possible that it will help solder a a brand new key fob ? Maybe they come bad soldered from GM ?
The Forum's stock just went up---the souldering fix worked on my 1998 fob that had not functioned for years---it works now--2/23/2015--CRG As of 11/12/2016---still working---CRG
Last edited by chasrg; Nov 13, 2016 at 01:26 AM.
Reason: To correct a date and add an update