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Legendary Problem Solved....

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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #101  
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From: eustis FL Saved and blessed; what else matter?
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Did both of my Y2K fobs today and they work flawlessly. Thanks!
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #102  
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Repaired both fobs for my dad's '98, and they're still working today. I inspected them under a microscope, and I could certainly see hairline cracks between the 4-pin part and the board.

Thanks!
Brett
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #103  
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good info
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 10:59 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by IrishMac
No way in hell could I solder that. I don't have the steadiest of hands.
Have a drink first. It's always worked for me.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 06:41 PM
  #105  
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Legendary solve indeed!!!! I didn't even need to solder or do any work to the remote other than run the re-synch procedure.

I purchased my car with non-working remotes not knowing how easy/hard it would be to solve. I even spoke with a former mechanic who was very familiar with this issue and he said no one he knew had a solution.

As always, great info CorvetteForum!
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #106  
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From: eustis FL Saved and blessed; what else matter?
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I've got steady hands, a good soldering pencil, and a double magnification headset. I re-soldered mine, and it works for about a day and then loses it's memory.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 05:41 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by mtdoragary
I've got steady hands, a good soldering pencil, and a double magnification headset. I re-soldered mine, and it works for about a day and then loses it's memory.
There's probably still a broken or cold joint somewhere. I suspect that the suggested pins are the pins that are most often broken, but there may be others as well. When I did mine, I re-flowed all of the pins on the AMI chip. In addition, more leaded solder was added. These boards were probably originally made with lead-free solder, which is a tougher product to use well.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 06:39 AM
  #108  
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From: eustis FL Saved and blessed; what else matter?
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I re-soldered all the pins on the IC, but as per your suggestion will go back and re-solder ALL joints. I have a 2000 and for some reason it has the most expensive remotes on eBay!
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:24 PM
  #109  
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Default It works

I did this today (hit all the prongs with a little solder on both chips) and it worked

I wish I would have gotten off my rear and done this last year when I got the car.

Now I have a remote, YAY


Thank you CF for this help, keep the thread going for others help too.


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Old May 3, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #110  
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Retagged since I seem to be having the problem now.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
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Had to buy an additional FOB and now have 3 FOB's (1) was thought to be useless - Well....

I did the LEGENDARY fix and it works I just trained all 3 FOBS to the Vette and they work flawlessly

Now I have an extra '97-2000 Key FOB that works, PASSIVE feature works perfect too!!! - Hmmmm what to do with it?

If anyone is looking for an extra FOB let me know!

Thanks,Matt

Last edited by madmatt9471; May 12, 2011 at 01:02 PM. Reason: fix word
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Old May 12, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #112  
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I just ran one through the washer and drier. I may need an extra one . I'm going to try and dry it out first though.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #113  
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Default Key Fob

Yep, I dropped mine the other day and sure enough the 4 pin Chip came right off the board. re-soldereed and programmed and I'm back in business. This fourm and all its experts are the best. I've gone onto the Lexus, ford truck and Oldsmobile forums and found them to be not as good.

Steve
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #114  
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Default 1997-2000 key fob

Originally Posted by BrettE
I just ran one through the washer and drier. I may need an extra one . I'm going to try and dry it out first though.
Let me know I have the extra 1997-2000 here

Thanks,Matt 661-406-7516
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #115  
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Thanks for the offer man!

Mission success was achieved. When I took it apart it was pretty wet, and the battery was a little mucked up. It's working again after a lot of cleaning with alcohol soaked q-tips. If that didn't work, I was going to toss it in drying oven.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #116  
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Any time an electronic device gets submerged in water, re-submerge it in alcohol. The alcohol will displace all the water and will evaporate quickly with no residue. After the alcohol dip, leave it over night fully submerged in a small paper bag of rice.

I used to work in the cell phone industry and had 98% success rate with this.

Last edited by doje; May 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #117  
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And the key is to immediately if not sooner, remove the battery. All the corrosion happens because electrons are trying to flow everywhere.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by gpracer1
And the key is to immediately if not sooner, remove the battery. All the corrosion happens because electrons are trying to flow everywhere.
I had an electrical engineer tell me not to turn it on or off and to leave the battery as is. I never understood the thinking behind that. I tend to agree with you on this one.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 11:29 AM
  #119  
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I'm a EE. I'd say pull the battery. I really can't guess how you would benefit by leaving it in.

Brett
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Old May 13, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by BrettE
I'm a EE. I'd say pull the battery. I really can't guess how you would benefit by leaving it in.

Brett
Glad to hear I'm not crazy.
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