engine removal
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Port Richey FL
Trans, diff and TT out the bottom, engine from the top not too difficult. Cajundude has a good write up. Just took the entire drive line out myself last weekend.
You will need
A very good heavy duty hydraulic lift, rent or buy
Excellent set of tools, 3/8 and 1/2 with multiple types of ratchets, extensions and breaker bars and be prepared to purchase a few more along the way
Air compressor and air ratchet
Several specialty tools to deal with the balancer on the front of the engine and the hydraulic quick disconnect
Four jack stands, six are better though
One low profile jack, one heavy duty three ton jack, a bottle jack, transmission jack and a regualr 19.99 jack
At least 8 (2 per jacking point) 1'x1' brick pavers + 2 extra per side to stand on while working in the engine bay
Two boxes of zip lock baggies and marker to label every single bolt you remove.
digital camera to take pics, you will forget where everything is located and how they go back together.
Copies of several different write-ups from the experts on here including Dope and Cajundude.
That should get you started. This is my third time going this route and I actually enjoyed the process this time around. Learned many tricks and short cuts.
PM me if you need any help
Best of luck if you decide to go this route. Sorry if my reply was more then you were looking for, just wanted to give you an idea what you are up against. But it is very satisfying to do it yourself.
the squidman
You will need
A very good heavy duty hydraulic lift, rent or buy
Excellent set of tools, 3/8 and 1/2 with multiple types of ratchets, extensions and breaker bars and be prepared to purchase a few more along the way
Air compressor and air ratchet
Several specialty tools to deal with the balancer on the front of the engine and the hydraulic quick disconnect
Four jack stands, six are better though
One low profile jack, one heavy duty three ton jack, a bottle jack, transmission jack and a regualr 19.99 jack
At least 8 (2 per jacking point) 1'x1' brick pavers + 2 extra per side to stand on while working in the engine bay
Two boxes of zip lock baggies and marker to label every single bolt you remove.
digital camera to take pics, you will forget where everything is located and how they go back together.
Copies of several different write-ups from the experts on here including Dope and Cajundude.
That should get you started. This is my third time going this route and I actually enjoyed the process this time around. Learned many tricks and short cuts.
PM me if you need any help
Best of luck if you decide to go this route. Sorry if my reply was more then you were looking for, just wanted to give you an idea what you are up against. But it is very satisfying to do it yourself.
the squidman
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,799
Likes: 1
From: Northern Virginia
St. Jude Donor '08
If you want to drop the drive train and engine at the same time the only way to do it is from the bottom. It's really not that bad to do.
When my brother and I dropped my drive train and pulled the engine, we did it in 2 steps. Drive train from the bottom and engine from the top. Worked pretty well.
When my brother and I dropped my drive train and pulled the engine, we did it in 2 steps. Drive train from the bottom and engine from the top. Worked pretty well.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Saint Cloud Florida
