my harmonic balancer went out a couple of days ago and i got a replacement. anybody got any tips on hows the easiest way to replace it? cause from the look of it i really have no cleareance space. i think i have to remove the rack and pinon just to get enough space . if anybodys done this job before i would appreciate and tips to help me out

 

I recommend following the service manual procedure.

 

A lot of people have has a hard time getting the bolt out. The manual shows a tool to help but a few people have had good luck with a high torque impact to get the bolt out.

 

The rack has to come out and I have always been able to get the bolts out with a breaker bar (1/2").

 

There is a good procedure on LS1tech.com for cam and heads install. You can use the applicable steps for steering rack removal and pulling the balancer. You don't need to pull the radiator. Also search on this forum, as many posts discuss. Don't try and use the old balancer bolt to press the new balancer on as you can damage the crankshaft threads. A simple tool can be made using threaded rod and nuts and washers. You will be able to find specs on the forum, only difficulty is locating metric threaded rod to make it. You should be able to break the old bolt loose with a large breaker bar, 24mm socket and a pipe extension. You will need a new balancer bolt, as the old one is not reuseable. Overall, not a difficult job. Good luck.

 

Link to good procedure. http://www.ls1howto.com/

 

I have done this a bunch of times and I have a few tips to help you accomplish the procedure.

I have used a couple of different ways to HOLD the damper while removing or installing the bolt. The best way is to purchase a heavy duty strap wrench. It seems to work the best.

Purchase a LONG breaker bar, your going to need it!

Autozone rents the 0-250 ft/lb torque wrench that your going to need if you use the ARP bolt.

I used an ARP Damper bolt instead of the stock GM bolt and I purchased an aftermarket damper. I used a POWERBOND Damper and it works great! Excellent quality for the price.





Heat the damper hub before you use a 3 Jaw Puller to remove it. I used a wagner heat gun and / or a propane torch. Most people feel safer using a heat gun. You only need to get the hub up to about 150-200 degrees to help it come off easier. It makes damper removal a LOT easier.

REPLACE THE TIMING COVER DAMPER SEAL! Use a new GM seal. While your there, I strongly recommend replacing the stock timing chain with a LS2 chain. Its a direct fit and a LOT more dependable. The new LS2 chain is installed. Im holding the old chain.



When you reinstall the damper, again, heat the hub and make sure that you rent, borrow or purchase a tool thats made to reinstall the damper. If you use the old bolt to start to press on the damper, you run a chance of damaging the crank snout threads. They will strip out. Vettenuts has a really good designed tool that he made. I copied his tool and it works excellent. I cut the head off the old stock bolt and welded on some all thread to the back of the stock bolt.

MAKE SURE that you use a NEW BOLT or an ARP bolt when you reinstall the damper and use correct torquing sequence for which ever bolt that you choose.

If you have questions, please let us know.

Bill

 

I will be replacing my HB next week so I also have a few questions that may help out anyone doing this job.

I know its a while your at it thing,,,,,,,but should the timing chain be replaced on a motor w/76k on it?

I purchased an SLP HB lower pulley. The instructions
Requires a New Serpentine Belt Dayco P/N 5060780. I would rather use Gatorback. Anyone know which GB is the same as the Dayco?
I have two belts last #' are 798 & 795.

Last should I get a front end alignment after I replace the steering unit?

Thanks