2000 c5 vert. 70k miles.

Yesterday, I was stopped at an intersection and when I put it into 1st it started to grind. I had to push the stick with force up into 1st and then felt a click of some sorts (the play in the stick was normal, I basically pushed hard when the stick came to an endfeel) took off fine. Then shifted into second third...six no prob. Then each time i was at a light or a stop and started off again into first i got the same thing then it started with second. So now I have to basically shift into first and second and "jam it" i guess you could say so it won't grind. When I do this to the stick no problem no grinding whether I take off hard and go through the gears or as soft as can be. The rest of the gear shifts are easy no effort or "jam/ slam" into the notch. The clutch feels fine and catches good. The other thing when I shut the car down and put it into 1st (on slight hill without the ebrake engaged yet) the car pops out of first as if it was never engaged. Again if I slam it into 1st then no prob....

Could the be a problem with the shifter and its linkages...?
Has this happend to anyone else?
Am I looking at an expensive fix..ie new tranny or clutch?

Please help??
Thank You
Dino

 

My guess is linkage but you better get it checked out VERY SOON!

 

Try doing a shifter alignment first.

 

Here are the instructions for the shifter alignment if you need them.

http://rpmtransmissions.com/files/c5...adjustment.pdf

If that doesn't help, give us a call and I will be happy to talk to you about this.

Thanks,
T.J.

 

Cold weather causes hard shifts. If you haven't changed your transmission fluid, you should (I recommend every 50,000 miles). Since yours is a 2000, you should use Amsoil ATD synthetic fluid (you have paper blocker rings, Mobil 1 ATF is NOT compatable). Shifting is much easier with synthetic fluid, especially at low temperatures. Good luck.

 

I agree with OldVetter. A simple tranny fluid change may help your problem. I just changed my 06 CTS-V to the same fluid he recommended above:
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (product code ATD1G - you'll need one gallon)

I've been using the AMSOIL ATF with good success in both my 02 Z06 track car and my 06 CTS-V for years, but after spending a lot of time researching the differences between these two AMSOIL Dexron III suitable fluids, I've come to believe the Torque Drive ATD is better for our manual trannies since it has a slightly higher viscosity and is totally shear stable has it has no viscosity improvers (whereas the ATF has some, but not much). A clutch bleed would be the first thing I'd consider.

That said, you could have a clutch problem as well. Throw out bearing seal leaks are common in these cars and if air gets in your clutch lines you might not be getting complete clutch disengagement which might be why you have problems in 1st.

Other issues could be bad synchros or a bent 1-2 shift fork (again very common). These two require much more work to identify and fix that the easy answers above.

 

I have a 97 6-speed and am wondering if I can use the royal purple for the tranny? If not where can I get the amsoil? What is envolved in draining and refilling the tranny?

 

I agree

 

I believe RP is okay.

To drain and refill transmission, jack up car, make sure it is level. First loosen fill plug (if you can't loosen this, you don't want to drain it) and check fluid level (should be level to bottom of hole) just for information (see if you are low on fluid). Then looosen drain plug on bottom, it will come out strong. Replace drain plug and fill using transfer pump until it runs out, then tighthen fill plug.

Plugs are on driver's side.

 

AMSOIL DEALER!?!?! Look in post reply# 6

Subdriver can fix you up with the correct ATF.

 

My 99 6 speed pops back out of reverse once in a while. I'm going to try the alignment procedure first, but then do I use this same automatic fluid or should I use the manual (or synchromesh) fulid???

I've heard that a few 99s have Borg Warner transmissions in them instead of Tremec ... how do we tell the difference? And what fluid would I use if mine is BW?

 

PM replied to you. Lots of people suggest other fluids should it have a BW transmission. Again, '99's were not supposed to get them, mine did. Mine was a August '98 build. But, for anyone with one, please, do not use Mobil 1 ATF or else you will be buying a new one like I had to do. Someone here in the forum took a picture of a BW trans. There is a stamp on the top of it, either in the metal or ID plate... the ID starts with a BW if its a Borg Warner transmission.

 

Personally, I wouldn't use the RP as I feel that it shears down too quickly, but clearly I'm biased. I also don't know if the RP is compatible with the paper blocker rings, whereas there is a lot of info on the forum that indicates that the AMSOIL Torque Drive ATF (product code ATD) is compatible with them.

AMSOIL can be ordered via the info in my sig, or the link to the left. Any sales using reference number 1206638 benefit my dealership and the forum. If you have any questions about ordering, or the Preferred Customer Program, which saves about 25%, please drop me a PM.

For the DIYer, this comes in handy:
AMSOIL Hand Pump (product code G2039)
(Note: I recommend taking the plastic tip off the fill hose as it isn't needed and might come off in the tranny)

The Tremec 6 sp manual requires a Dexron III fluid. Most manual synchromesh fluids, including AMSOIL's, are not labeled to be suitable for Dexron III applications. The AMSOIL Torque Drive ATF (product code ATD) I linked above is suitable for Dexron III applications.

Changing the tranny fluid is easy. I did my CTS-V daily driver this weekend (same Tremec 6 sp).
- Put car on jacks, or Rhino Ramps and ensure it is level
- Open fill plug (drivers side about halfway forward and halfway up)
(you want to do this first to ensure you can get it off before you drain the fluid and find you can't fill it back up)
- Open drain plug (passenger side lower rear corner)
- Drain fluid then replace drain plug (I use teflon tape on my plugs)
- Pump in new fluid until fluid it at the bottom of the fill plug (using a pump like the one linked above) (this is why the car must be level since you could over or under fill if it isn't)
- Close fill plug (again I use teflon tape)
- Lower car and test, check for leaks

Note that on some model years, the fill plug might have the temp probe connection for the tranny temp sensor (my 02 Z06 does). Interestingly, on my 06 CTS-V, the temp probe is on the drain plug.

 

dgrant3830 & Subdriver: thanks to you both for the excellent information. Guys like you are what makes this forum GREAT!

 

To all that replied to my post < THANKS SO MUCH >
I tried the alignment and what did I find:::: the two shifter bolts were finger loose. Took it all apart and put it back together the way the instructions you all sent and WHAMO fixed the problem.

MUCH THANKS TO ALL!!!
DINO X

 

Dino,
Glad to see the simple check fixed your problems.

TRVOguy,
Hope your alignment yesterday went as well.

 

TY for this thread. Sub, just ordered some ATD referencing you.

 

Thanks , we occasionally have the similiar problem (only with 1st gear starting off) with our 2000 and had already changed to tranny oil, to no avail. Guess I know what I'm doing after it warms up a bit... Thanks again...

 

Question for you Subdriver.
I am getting ready to change all the fluids in my 2000 6 speed. I decided to go with your recommendation Amsoil ATD for the transmission. What type of Amsoil would you recommend for the rear end.
Thanks Frank