access to daytime running lights
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 163
Likes: 3
From: Sparta TN
access to daytime running lights
This my be a stupid question but ill ask it anyway. What is the easiest way to repair the bulb in the daytime running light?? How do u get access to get to the bulb?? Thanks for the help.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
Likes: 87
From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You'll get three suggestions
Go in through the brake ducts - not easy with a Z06 or if you have screens
Go in through the bottom by taking out the bottom panel
The one that works for me is:
Turn on the headlights and back off one position to kill the lights.
Unscrew the 3 small screws on the black plastic housing around the headlight. Gently pull the housing clear. Reach down around the headlight unit and release the bulb holder. It comes out by turning the bulb holder a ¼ turn counter clockwise but it has a plastic clip which you need to squeeze to release it. Here’s how the bulb fits into the lamp unit. The DRL bulb is the lower of the two.
Here’s the light socket. This one’s after market but it gives you the idea. You can see the clip you need to squeeze.
Change the bulb. It’s a push fit into the lamp holder. Push it home firmly but don’t handle the glass. Use latex gloves if you have them. Reseat the bulb holder and turn clockwise until it clicks back in place. Put the plastic headlight housing back in place making sure to locate the small plastic tab in the bracket on the headlamp cover. Replace the 3 screws and close the lights.
It’s a 10 minute job. Some guys have had the lights close if they’ve taken a while to do the fix. If you’re worried about that, disconnect the battery once the lights are up.
The bulb is a 4157NA
Some guys with big arms remove the hood adjusting screw for better access. Guys with even bigger arms have had to take off the headlight cover. Four torx screws (2 back, 1 each side). Take the back ones off first with the lamps down. Raise the lights and take the side ones out.
Go in through the brake ducts - not easy with a Z06 or if you have screens
Go in through the bottom by taking out the bottom panel
The one that works for me is:
Turn on the headlights and back off one position to kill the lights.
Unscrew the 3 small screws on the black plastic housing around the headlight. Gently pull the housing clear. Reach down around the headlight unit and release the bulb holder. It comes out by turning the bulb holder a ¼ turn counter clockwise but it has a plastic clip which you need to squeeze to release it. Here’s how the bulb fits into the lamp unit. The DRL bulb is the lower of the two.
Here’s the light socket. This one’s after market but it gives you the idea. You can see the clip you need to squeeze.
Change the bulb. It’s a push fit into the lamp holder. Push it home firmly but don’t handle the glass. Use latex gloves if you have them. Reseat the bulb holder and turn clockwise until it clicks back in place. Put the plastic headlight housing back in place making sure to locate the small plastic tab in the bracket on the headlamp cover. Replace the 3 screws and close the lights.
It’s a 10 minute job. Some guys have had the lights close if they’ve taken a while to do the fix. If you’re worried about that, disconnect the battery once the lights are up.
The bulb is a 4157NA
Some guys with big arms remove the hood adjusting screw for better access. Guys with even bigger arms have had to take off the headlight cover. Four torx screws (2 back, 1 each side). Take the back ones off first with the lamps down. Raise the lights and take the side ones out.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 38,655
Likes: 25
From: Bunnell FL
I use the above method of going down from the top.
One additional thing I do is gently place the bulb socket (there is a sort of flat area on it) in a set of channel lock pliers I slip down in front of the headlight. I use my left hand to hold the channel locks and then my right hand to remove the old bulb from the socket and insert the new one.
I have 107K miles on my Vette and I just replaced the two plastic bulb housings. The heat of the DRL/Turn Signal bulb eventually melts the housing. Here is a photo looking into the housing where the DRL bulb goes. You can see how the plastic is bubbled above where the bulb was and the "X" is actually a split that lets the water in.
I found that heavy rain and car washes were getting water to the hot bulb and causing it to blow out.
Someone here suggested turning on the parking lights for car washes which keeps the DRL bulbs off and cold. After driving for 5-10 minutes I was able to turn off the parking lights and when the DRL bulbs lit up they were fine.
If you are blowing bulb after bulb, your problem is most likely a hole in the housing. Some have fixed the hole with duct tape of high temperature silicone.
One additional thing I do is gently place the bulb socket (there is a sort of flat area on it) in a set of channel lock pliers I slip down in front of the headlight. I use my left hand to hold the channel locks and then my right hand to remove the old bulb from the socket and insert the new one.
I have 107K miles on my Vette and I just replaced the two plastic bulb housings. The heat of the DRL/Turn Signal bulb eventually melts the housing. Here is a photo looking into the housing where the DRL bulb goes. You can see how the plastic is bubbled above where the bulb was and the "X" is actually a split that lets the water in.
I found that heavy rain and car washes were getting water to the hot bulb and causing it to blow out.
Someone here suggested turning on the parking lights for car washes which keeps the DRL bulbs off and cold. After driving for 5-10 minutes I was able to turn off the parking lights and when the DRL bulbs lit up they were fine.
If you are blowing bulb after bulb, your problem is most likely a hole in the housing. Some have fixed the hole with duct tape of high temperature silicone.
