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Do an internet search using the words of what you're trying to determine.
Simply type the keywords into the browser window in place of the corvetteforum.com address.
In this case: "finding top dead center". You can add "finding top dead center of a C5" or "finding top dead center of an LSx motor" to further define your search parameters.
You'll come up with hundreds of pages of things to read...
Last edited by hotwheels57; Jan 27, 2009 at 11:33 AM.
Do an internet search using the words of what you're trying to determine.
Simply type the keywords into the browser window in place of the corvetteforum.com address.
In this case: "finding top dead center". You can add "finding top dead center of a C5" or "finding top dead center of an LSx motor" to further define your search parameters.
You'll come up with hundreds of pages of things to read...
Thank you for your contribution.
I have tried this method and came up with many numerous ways to get "close" to or "about" TDC. Thus, my question about markings on the crank pulley which would indicate TDC for certain.
Based on your response, I'll assume that you don't know either...
I have tried this method and came up with many numerous ways to get "close" to or "about" TDC. Thus, my question about markings on the crank pulley which would indicate TDC for certain.
Based on your response, I'll assume that you don't know either...
You're right, turning the motor and watching the valves will only get you close. The only way to know you are exactly at TDC is to use a dial indicator on the top of the piston.
Actually, I did know that a dial indicator/wheel is the most accurate manner to determine TDC.
Many owners remove the spark plug and place their finger over #1 and slowly turn the motor over manually. When your finger is pushed off by the pressure/piston coming up, you've found TDC.
There is also a thread in tool that stops the piston at TDC.
I was certain if you researched any of the hits that come from those keywords, you'd find the answer, too...
Actually, I did know that a dial indicator/wheel is the most accurate manner to determine TDC.
Many owners remove the spark plug and place their finger over #1 and slowly turn the motor over manually. When your finger is pushed off by the pressure/piston coming up, you've found TDC.
There is also a thread in tool that stops the piston at TDC.
I was certain if you researched any of the hits that come from those keywords, you'd find the answer, too...
The "thread in tool" is a piston stop. It's intended to be used with a dial indicator. Once you've used the dial indicator to find true TDC, you adjust the piston stop. That way, you can revisit TDC by just contacting the stop.
TDC for #1 is typically marked on the balancer. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the nole, crank till you fell the pressure build then turn till the timing mark lines up- Easy as 1, 2 3.
TDC for #1 is typically marked on the balancer. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the nole, crank till you fell the pressure build then turn till the timing mark lines up- Easy as 1, 2 3.
Where might one find this marking on an LS1 balancer?
Actually, I did know that a dial indicator/wheel is the most accurate manner to determine TDC.
Many owners remove the spark plug and place their finger over #1 and slowly turn the motor over manually. When your finger is pushed off by the pressure/piston coming up, you've found TDC.
There is also a thread in tool that stops the piston at TDC.
I was certain if you researched any of the hits that come from those keywords, you'd find the answer, too...
Then wouldn't it have been much quicker as well as helpful to just say that in the beginning in lieu of being a smart ***?
To assume that I hadn't searched...well, you spell it out ***-u-me.
If I owned a shop or did mechanical work for a living perhaps I would have an entire chest full of tools to choose from and I would have went that route last night at 1am...but I am not, and I do not.
Then wouldn't it have been much quicker as well as helpful to just say that in the beginning in lieu of being a smart ***?
To assume that I hadn't searched...well, you spell it out ***-u-me.
If I owned a shop or did mechanical work for a living perhaps I would have an entire chest full of tools to choose from and I would have went that route last night at 1am...but I am not, and I do not.
I didn't reply with what I thought was a smart *** suggestion.
Don't worry, it won't happen again that I offer you any suggestions...well maybe just one...
I'll have to check the manual, I haven't looked at my balancer since I got the car so I'm not sure the stock one has marks, I've seen some aftermarket ones with timing marks so I assumed the stock one did too.
I'll have to check the manual, I haven't looked at my balancer since I got the car so I'm not sure the stock one has marks, I've seen some aftermarket ones with timing marks so I assumed the stock one did too.
Okay....so that brings up the next question: If the aftermarket balancer you've seen has a timing mark on it, what does one align that mark to? I've never seen a degree tab for an LS1/LS6.
Then wouldn't it have been much quicker as well as helpful to just say that in the beginning in lieu of being a smart ***?
To assume that I hadn't searched...well, you spell it out ***-u-me.
If I owned a shop or did mechanical work for a living perhaps I would have an entire chest full of tools to choose from and I would have went that route last night at 1am...but I am not, and I do not.
I don't think Hotwheels57 was being a smart ***...
There are no marks on the stock damper and it is not located in any position relative to the crankshaft. I have an ATI that has degree marks which I pinned and it is very close but not dead nuts. However it is close enough for installing my rocker arms when I need to. The question I would have is how accurately do you need to determine TDC? Both valves on the base circle would require less accuracy than some other tasks might require. Only way to get true TDC is a degree wheel and a piston stop with the heads on.
the most accurate way to find TDC with heads on you need a piston stop can be made out of an old spark plug, break the center electrode&ground strap off jam a old bolt in & weld remove all plugs,screw in by hand the made tool if it won't go in all the way turn motor over by HAND 1/2 revolution screw tool in rest of way,now turn motor over by HAN D in one direction(( if there is no indicator (on block or timing case cover) you can make one out of a section of heavy wire(like coat hanger only heavier gauge) attach anywhere to block/timing case position loose end in close proximity .to outside diameter of harmonic balancer))till you can't turn over as piston has come in contact with piston stop where the pointer is pointing to on harmonic balancer mark the balancer, now turn the motor over in the opposite direction by HAND till it stops as piston has come in contact with piston stop now mark balancer again measure the distance between the two marks that is EXACT TOP DEAD CENTER.if using an aftermarket degreed balancer but no pointer on block/timing case,bend /adjust home made pointer till there is an equal number of degrees before and after top dead center ,example turn motor over cw pointer reads 15 degree btdc(before top dead center) turn over ccw pointer reads 5 degree atdc(after top dead center) bend pointer to 10 degree atdc recheck pointer should read 10 degree when turned over in both directions 10 degree btdc & 10 degree atdc if using damper that is not marked you can degree it fairly accurate measure outside diameter divide in half thats 180 degree divide in half again thats 90 degree half again 45 degree half again 22 1/2 and so on you can mark before and after tdc.KNOWING WHERE YOUR TDC IS IS USEFUL WHEN SETTING (ADJ.)VALVES DEGREEING CAM OR CHECKING CUSTOM IGN. TIMING SETTINGS 98% of late model vettes don't need this as most mods are tuned electronically through computer but modified when you have to absolutely know where everything is this may be necessary