is driver side front speed sensor, right?

i haven't got the car up in the air yet to check it out, but I'm assuming its going to be pretty obvious which connection is the sensor right?

 

DTC C1226 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation

Code C1226 indicates that the right front wheel speed sensor is either sending a bad signal or no signal. Start by checking the connections. The wheel speed sensors are integrated into the wheel bearing/hub assembly pictured below. The wire coming out of the back is the connection for the wheel speed sensors. Verify that the connector are not broken, damaged, or corroded in any way. Pay particular attention to the female end.
The wire coming out of the wheel speed sensor connects to and 18" jumper harness, then to the main harness. It is very common for people to have a weak female pin in one of those connections. If all of that checks out good, swap the jumper harness from side to side. For example if the left front is bad, swap it over to the right front. And install the good one from the right front to the left side. Then clear the trouble code. If the trouble code is now on the right side, you know the wire harness is the problem. If the code is still on the left side after swapping the jumper harnesses, you know the problem is inside the wheel speed sensors.
If all the wires check out good, it's time to take a trip to Auto Zone for a new set of bearings. You can buy replacement AC Delco bearing from your dealer if you want to, or get the exact same bearing in a different box for half the price (~$150) from Auto Zone, you decide. The bearings should be replaced in axel sets, so if your left front is bad, you have to replace the right front too. While you’re at it, this is a good time to upgrade the lug studs and add spindle ducts.

 

Glenn, my 2000 book indicates C1226 is RF (passenger) wheel.
C1225 is LF.
It indicates the computer has seen a wheel speed variation of 9 MPH for a couple of seconds.
You can do a basic check of the wheel speed sensor (WSS) with a multi-meter. Unplug the connector near the brake caliper, and check to see if the sensor has 850-1350 ohms across the two terminals.
Then select the AC milli-volt scale, spin the wheel by hand, and see if the output is above 100 mv.
If those tests pass, and the wiring looks fine, maybe try unplugging the battery to reset the computer, and see if the problem stays away.
It will still be in memory, but will not light the ABS/tC light unless it fails again.
If it still comes back, start tracing wiring back to the computer and cross your fingers.

DG

 

gotcha, ill come back with some results