When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The odds are that you can beat that Mustang just the way that two cars presently set.If beating this guy really is your only goal,then don't waste money on mods,just slap on some Nitto's (good street/strip tire)especially with a stock application,and the race will be yours.Now if getting your car to run 12.50 is the actual goal,then a converter and gears should do the trick.That will give you a good starting base and all additional mods will benefit from it.
Last edited by 98vettedave; Jan 28, 2009 at 04:39 PM.
He lives in Kalifornia cant go to headers...dont waste time on mods get the Pcm tuned plugs wires intake is all drive the car and be happy it aint a mustang
Only shorties...I don't think any long tubes are because they relocate the cats. SLP may be CARB certified, but most people over look them because they are complete and utter PITA to install. There is an option in the SLP headers to keep the cats I believe.
I agree w/ chevy ss, I ran 13.7 stock and added c.a.i a&a exhaust mod + hand held tune.
running consistant 12.6 times now. got about $700 in that. still running stock converter &2.73 gear and pulling 1.90 60 ft times on nitto 555'S
I agree w/ chevy ss, I ran 13.7 stock and added c.a.i a&a exhaust mod + hand held tune.
running consistant 12.6 times now. got about $700 in that. still running stock converter &2.73 gear and pulling 1.90 60 ft times on nitto 555'S
Since I own the same Mustang (an 07) with an intake an tune, I can tell you he is full of it. No where near 12.5. Even with drag radials high 12s at the best and for that he'd have to be very good. I've actually been on the strip against a Shelby GT500, I went mid 13s and he did high 12s. Make him a bet, you will win it easy.
i agree. I am a bow tie and blue oval guy (have a hopped up 96). My stang puts 300hp (mustang dyno)to the wheels which is at LEAST 30 more than he is putting down. I run 315 nitto drags on it and cant get better than mid 13's out of it. With a professional driver it should do high 12's but that would involve some amazing driving.
He sounds like he is doing rice addition. He probably added up the advertised hp and thinks he is pushing 400hp. He is probably making around 325 hp at the flywheel........
I believe I seen a couple of Nitrous kits on the parts for sale section. That and a set of Nitto's is all you need. Absolutly zero effect on driveablility and as long as you don't get carried with the jet sizes, it won't hurt reliability either.
My best run is a 12.9 A4 3.15 gears, corsa indy exhaust, corsa x pipe, breathless vortex coldair intake, and 295 18" good years eagle f1 supercar tire.
So if i can hit that with out headers, tune, gears or a stall think of what you can do.
First thing to replace is run flat tires no question about it. But there goes half of your "funds" the other half i would buy american racing headers and a tune.
Your 3000 is already gone
Next is Gears and Stall if you are really that serious about drag racing other wise who gives a flip about how fast anyone is compared to your vette.
you drive a corvette it is a "super car" Mustangs are just mustangs
Girls will want to drive in a corvette any day over a mustang
I would NOT start with converter, headers and/or gears. You might not need them to get to 12.5 seconds. And those are bigger items that WILL affect drivability.
I'd begin with CAI (cold air intake) and catback and tune. Also, I'd run non-runflat tires, which will be quicker, quieter and smoother than the RF's (assuming you still have them). Here's a comparo of RF to non-RF: http://www.corvette-express.com/news.php
You can check your rear gearing by looking at the RPO (Regular Production Option) sticker in your glovebox door. The sticker will have a bunch of 3-character codes (hopefully, you've already got 3.15 gears). You can go to a site like this one to decode all those: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/.../2004rpos.html
For rear gears in auto trans C5 (any year), I believe these are the two RPO code possibilities:
GU2 Axle, Rear, 2.73 Ratio
G90 Axle, Rear, 3.15 Ratio
I asked a couple guys at work what they would do, so I could compare ideas. I work at a Ford dealership (haha, I know but it pays the bills) a few of my co-workers drive Corvettes as well. They think that just some decent tires (I currently have the run-flats) and 100 shot of nitrous would do the trick. One of the guys showed me this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fAccessories
He has it installed on his car, and it hauls. Nitrous seems like a good idea, being that I wouldn't need the HP all the time. I'm taking everything into consideration. Very good ideas thusfar, keep them coming!
Only reason I don't want to run nitrous, is because I can already predict what his excuse would be....lol
I was thinking if I should get a cut-out over the cat-back. Being that the cat back starts after the "H" pipe, wouldn't it be better just to weld the cutouts onto the "H" pipe? Just a thought.
Last edited by C5Joe559; Jan 28, 2009 at 08:34 PM.
I would NOT start with converter, headers and/or gears. You might not need them to get to 12.5 seconds. And those are bigger items that WILL affect drivability.
I'd begin with CAI (cold air intake) and catback and tune. Also, I'd run non-runflat tires, which will be quicker, quieter and smoother than the RF's (assuming you still have them). Here's a comparo of RF to non-RF: http://www.corvette-express.com/news.php
You can check your rear gearing by looking at the RPO (Regular Production Option) sticker in your glovebox door. The sticker will have a bunch of 3-character codes (hopefully, you've already got 3.15 gears). You can go to a site like this one to decode all those: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/.../2004rpos.html
For rear gears in auto trans C5 (any year), I believe these are the two RPO code possibilities:
GU2 Axle, Rear, 2.73 Ratio
G90 Axle, Rear, 3.15 Ratio
-
Originally Posted by Got uid0
You wont hit 12.5 with your recommendation
My A4 w/3.15's, CAI, tune and fantastic air only netted by a 12.89 and that was with 1.9X 60' times.
Headers, CAI, tune and a cat back will get you close to 12.5 but I doubt you need to be that fast.
I asked a couple guys at work what they would do, so I could compare ideas. I work at a Ford dealership (haha, I know but it pays the bills) a few of my co-workers drive Corvettes as well. They think that just some decent tires (I currently have the run-flats) and 100 shot of nitrous would do the trick. One of the guys showed me this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nitro...Q5fAccessories
He has it installed on his car, and it hauls. Nitrous seems like a good idea, being that I wouldn't need the HP all the time. I'm taking everything into consideration. Very good ideas thusfar, keep them coming!
Only reason I don't want to run nitrous, is because I can already predict what his excuse would be....lol
I was thinking if I should get a cut-out over the cat-back. Being that the cat back starts after the "H" pipe, wouldn't it be better just to weld the cutouts onto the "H" pipe? Just a thought.
Don't let the smooth taste full ya. $379 will not get nitrous in the car the right way. I have been looking at this kit as well. Another guy in the FI section (I think or Tech section). Had a similar kit and hit the rev limiter in 1st and 2nd gear causing the fuel to shut off but not the nitrous. I believe he bent the pushrods and who knows what els he did. You got to get the WINDOW SWITCH to be on the safe side along with other nitrous goodies to safely run on your car. Commit $600- $850 to this kit and will be set up. No doubt you would smoke the Rustang with this kit. I learned my nitrous lesson the easy way from others mistakes.
He has it on his 71 Camaro, but only had it on (he says) 1 week. He said he'd install it for me for $600, or just sell me the kit for $450. Here's my stupid question....would this kit work fine with a C5? It says Camaro/Firebird specific, but still obviously an LS1.
I'm already at 12.8s with just a Vararam and tuning on my automatic C5, so it's definitely possible to get 12.5s for $3000! I think that you could probably run low 12s or even high 11s with $3000 worth of work (especially if you went with drag radials, 3.73s and a higher stall converter in addition to the Vararam/tune)
I think your buddy is estimating his 1/4 mile ET at 12.5 I would expect his car to run closer to 13.50 in perfect conditions. Just get some sticky tires and I think you won't have a problem.
In 2001 I ran 12.61 @ 111 mph at Sacramento Dragway with our LS1.
Mods:
Halltech Stinger Induction
LS6 Intake manifold and 30# RC Injectors
Stock LS6 Titanium exhaust
X-pipe
No tuning was available back then, no headers.
Z06 rubber
I beat 20 different Corvettes that day (Corvetteforum.com event) inlcluding all Z06s except a couple of NOS cars and one Z06 that had our intake onboard (Tom Easterday, who ran 12.49 @ 115 mph)
__________________ "World Class Performance for your Corvette"
Intake Design and Engineering since 1999
Halltech Systems, LLC
423-915-6056
I'm already at 12.8s with just a Vararam and tuning on my automatic C5, so it's definitely possible to get 12.5s for $3000! I think that you could probably run low 12s or even high 11s with $3000 worth of work (especially if you went with drag radials, 3.73s and a higher stall converter in addition to the Vararam/tune)
Wow 12.8 with just an intake and tune? Who tuned it? When I bought the car, it came with an intake, don't know the brand, but it has 2 air filters.
Get a timeslip before you spend any $$$. I can "say" I turn 9.80's...but it ain't true.
Well I was planning on doing a few mods anyway, being tax season and all. This whole thread isn't just about beating a mustang, it's to help me decide what mods are best off to start with. Of course everyone says intake and exhaust, but I wanted more options.