OK, so I cut the bushings on the front ride height adjusters ('03 Z06), and with them both bottomed for zero preload, the right side of the car still sits lower than the left by 3/4". I have to jack the heck out of the right adjuster to even get both sides close, but this means I'm preloading that side of the spring and I notice the car wants to drift to the left.

Could it be that the front leaf is not centered in it's mounts, thus causing one side to sit higher? I wouldn't mind 1/4" or so, but 3/4 is unacceptable, and I don't want to have to crank the heck out of one adjuster to even get them to within 1/2".

Opinions? Thanks in advance.

 

If you haven't unhooked the anti sway bar and you don't have adjustable end links, it's going to be tough to get the right side up with minimal adjustment. Also, the left side should sit higher than the right to compensate for driver weight. What are your ride heights now with your weight in the driver's seat?

 

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. I didn't cut any bushings but I tighten both bolts in the front (and rear) to the exactly the same position (or so I thought) to find out a week later (after 25 miles or so) that the right front was 1/4 too high and the right rear was 1/2 inch too high. I wanted the car exactly level from left to right and I wanted the rear to mimic what the factory had set up which in my case was about 1/2 taller in the rear (2001 z51). I dont track and most of the time its the two of us in the car so I didn't want to compensate for drivers weight at all. I had to raise the left front a few turn and I was able to lower the right front another 1/2 turn and now they are exactly level (at lease so far - it could settle more over time since i have not driven it yet). I also raised the left rear 1/4 inch and lowered the right rear 1/4 inch. Its only off my 1/8 or so and it may settle as well. I may adjust the rear again but that is easy to do with the tires left on.

IMO I would adjust the bolts until you are satisfied.

Good luck.

 

I hadn't thought about the swaybar limiting the amount of adjustment. I just have the stock endlinks which aren't adjustable as far as I know.

Measuring from the fenders, with both bolts bottomed for minimum ride height, the right side sits 3/4" lower than the left at 26 1/4". I've twisted the right adjuster and gotten it up to about 26 1/2", but the car now seems to ever-so-slightly want to turn to the left. I would imagine that's the preloading of the spring from the adjuster that's causing the behavior.

My theory was that the leaf spring wasn't perfectly-centered, and I was wondering if anyone else had experience with such an issue. Guess I'll climb underneath and measure the best I can to check on the spring centering. I would think that could have an effect on ride height irregularities.

Thanks for the replies and any other words of wisdom.

 

Lowering does require a 4 wheel alignment. Perhaps your car was already out of alignment (slightly) and when you lowered it made it worse. I would try and level out (raise one side) and see it that helps it from pulling.

Perhaps an adjustable end-links will help and then you can try and lower it more.

 

I know that a vast majority of us lower the car for the "looks". Because we do it for that reason, we always use the fenders in order to establish the "height" of the car. Actually, however, the "ride height" is measured at the inner lower control arm bolts, both front and rear.

By measuring at the control arm bolts, you're setting the actual height of the CHASSIS, and not the body panels, which are NOT adjustable, and may vary from side to side. This may not give you equal "fender gap", but it does give you an accurate, and lower, chassis height, which is more important.

Secondly, when levelling the chassis in this manner, it automatically takes the sway bar links out of the equation, as the chassis will be level, and not inputting any tension into the bars.

Also, to the OP, did you drive the car a bit after making the adjustments? This topic has been discussed MANY times, and most people agree that anywhere from 40-70 miles are sometimes needed to get the car to "settle" after adjusting the spring bolts.

Good luck!

 

Does anyone know what the factory height spec is?

 

The "J" height (front), is 6.02" and the "K" height (rear) is 6.22". I'm searching the shop manual, and the height numbers are in one spot, ant the definition of those points are in another.

I believe, however, those "J" and "K" figures are from the center of the lower control arm pivot points....

 

Another fairly accurate way to measure the ride height, abeit not to factory spec, is to measure the four points on the frame just ahead of the front lift points and just behind the rear lift points. Fenders can be considerably off. Use the actual frame not the inset plate with the holes for the pucks. I use this highly technical measuring tool a 79 cent 3" turn buckle and bolt, but it works good.

 

Excellent tip!

 

I think maybe the J-point was changed from the subframe to the outer rocker panel (rocker panel????) at some time.
My 2000 shop manual has specs of J=6.02" (front) and K=6.22" (rear).
These are measured from a point on the lower edge of the rocker panel 35 inches behind the center of the front wheel, and 31 inches in front of the center of the rear wheel.

I assume they are referring to the painted fiberglass rocker panel, and not the frame. Seems strange, as the rocker panel could probably vary quite a bit in it's distance from the frame, depending on how it's molded and bolted on?

Then there is Z ht, which is the distance between the lowest point on the lower ball joint and the center of the front of the inner lower control arm bolt = 1.73". Looks difficult to measure without proper leveling equipment. But seems more accurate than that "rocker panel" stuff.

There is a similar D ht = 4.25" for the rear. Measured from the same points (lower ball joint to control arm bolt).

I guess you could put a level across the bottom of the ball joint, pointed toward the front of the control arm bolt, then measure straight up from the level to the center of the bolt, and you should be at 1.73" or 4.25".

Whew!

DG

 

Hey, I like your tool. Very ingenious!

To those who asked, I forgot to mention that I did measure between the frame and the ground near the lift points, and the right sits still sits 1/4" lower than the left. Is the only way to level the car with the adjusters, or is there something else I can tweak? Nobody has said whether or not an un-centered spring could cause this. I'm still curious.

Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Keep 'em coming!

 

Well, I suppose an uncentered spring could cause a ride height problem, but I really don't think that's what you're going to find. The right 1/4" lower than the left sounds pretty close to a factory difference to me.

 

Thanks for the thoughts. I think I'll crawl underneath the car this weekend and see if there's any measurable difference in spring centering. I was at the Hyperco website looking at installation instructions, and it really called out how important it was to center the spring, thus my curiousity. I'll report any variations.

 

Any news yet?

 

Not all frames are "square." in fact most are not and can very by as much as 1/8" UP and down.

So it is important to measure and adjust the right height by measuring to the lower part of the frame where the A-arm attaches front and rear. and the Rear should be 1/4 to 3/8" higher then the front.

Ideally this should be measured with the drivers wt is in the drivers seat.

Good Luck

 

Sorry to open this thread again but I have exactly same problem. Well I was not tiring to lower my car I was actually kind of rebuilding whole front end but anyway I put the car back together everything looks strait I lower the spring all the way down and still on one side I can stick 4 fingers between wheel and wheelhouse and on the other side 5 fingers. But … and maybe this is my problem I still didn’t hook up my swaybar yet I’m still waiting for the right size since twice I got delivered regular 28mm swaybar. So basically my question is did the missing sb could cause uneven ride height? And if so why? Any explanation? Thanks…

 

one important thing this thread doesn't mention is the floor your measuring on. Make sure your tire pressure is correct and check the floor for level with water, it will show the low spots as it dries.

Then measure from the frame

 

Well yeah but it could make that kind of difference? Anyway my question still remains did or did not front swaybar if it’s not attached could make that kind of difference in ride height on relatively even pavement. ?

 

No, a missing sway bar will not effect your ride height in that way. Measure from the frame, not the fenders.