water pump gaskets
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Stillwater Minnesota
water pump gaskets
I'm installing a new water pump on my LS1. What's the deal with these gaskets.... do they not take any RTV selant.
Also what is the torque specs on these water pump bolts. And is there a tightening order?
Also are there torque specs on the thermostat housing?
Thanks!!
Also what is the torque specs on these water pump bolts. And is there a tightening order?
Also are there torque specs on the thermostat housing?
Thanks!!
Last edited by weinerschizel; Feb 21, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 13
From: Akron Ohio
When I did my cam swap earlier this year I didn't use any. I don't think its necessary, but when I just finished up my head swap I used some on the pump side just to hold them in place. I used my built in torque wrench and tightened them down evenly. No leaks this time or last time and I've used this torque wrench for years. Don't get me wrong, I torqued my heads or anything vital with a wrench. Your thinking too hard.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
No silicone required, all the gaskets are a rubber o-ring type. Last time I did the pump I made four alignment pins by cutting the head off of four bolts. Install the pins, put the gaskets over the pins then install the pump. Install the remaining two bolts then replace the pins with bolts one at a time to keep the gaskets in place.
Bolts are tightened in two passes, first pass is 11 lb-ft (132 lb-in) and the second pass is 22 lb-ft.
Bolts are tightened in two passes, first pass is 11 lb-ft (132 lb-in) and the second pass is 22 lb-ft.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 621
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From: Stillwater Minnesota
No silicone required, all the gaskets are a rubber o-ring type. Last time I did the pump I made four alignment pins by cutting the head off of four bolts. Install the pins, put the gaskets over the pins then install the pump. Install the remaining two bolts then replace the pins with bolts one at a time to keep the gaskets in place.
Bolts are tightened in two passes, first pass is 11 lb-ft (132 lb-in) and the second pass is 22 lb-ft.
Bolts are tightened in two passes, first pass is 11 lb-ft (132 lb-in) and the second pass is 22 lb-ft.
I'm gonna have to remember that trick for next time!
I have two remaining issues. Number one. I cannot for the life of me figure out how this serpintine belt goes back on. I'm gonna google for a diagram but if you guys have one that would be awesome!
Number two. I have a pressure tester. I found one leaky hose already and replaced it. How high do I pump this thing up to? 15PSI as it says on the cap or a little higher?
Thanks!
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Stillwater Minnesota
I'm doing a pressure test. How long should the system hold pressure?
I pump it up to 15psi and it holds for a while then slowly eeks down. I cannot hear any leaks. I suppose over the course of an hour it leaks out 5psi.
I pump it up to 15psi and it holds for a while then slowly eeks down. I cannot hear any leaks. I suppose over the course of an hour it leaks out 5psi.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Leakage of 5 psi over an hour is pretty slow, but you may still want to try a more detailed look for the presence of coolant. It's only got two places to go: crankcase or outside and (eventually) onto the ground.If you want to explore it further, I have seen kits you can purchase that use a dye. Similar idea to an A/C leak check. Put the dye in the coolant, circulate well, pressurize system and look for the colored water/coolant. It may even have some colored glasses to assist in identifying the liquid. A kit like that would be especially helpful in locating leaks in hard to reach or otherwise inaccessible location(s) (think heater core, crankcase, etc).
BTW, is this leakage rate them same for just the cap itself? If so, you may have a cap needing replacement.
HTH
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From: Stillwater Minnesota
I found the leak. It's on the small rear line that runs into the reservoir back closest to the battery and on top.
It looks like a trouble area. I put the clamp on tight and also tried to zip tie it shut. Still leaks. I need a new clamp for one but I think it's just not going to seal up that great.
And another thing... should I be using a 18PSI cap now? I got the newer style LS2/LS3/LS7 pump on my 99 FRC.
It looks like a trouble area. I put the clamp on tight and also tried to zip tie it shut. Still leaks. I need a new clamp for one but I think it's just not going to seal up that great.
And another thing... should I be using a 18PSI cap now? I got the newer style LS2/LS3/LS7 pump on my 99 FRC.
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I found the leak. It's on the small rear line that runs into the reservoir back closest to the battery and on top.
It looks like a trouble area. I put the clamp on tight and also tried to zip tie it shut. Still leaks. I need a new clamp for one but I think it's just not going to seal up that great.
And another thing... should I be using a 18PSI cap now? I got the newer style LS2/LS3/LS7 pump on my 99 FRC.
It looks like a trouble area. I put the clamp on tight and also tried to zip tie it shut. Still leaks. I need a new clamp for one but I think it's just not going to seal up that great.
And another thing... should I be using a 18PSI cap now? I got the newer style LS2/LS3/LS7 pump on my 99 FRC.
Unless you have some specific reason to replace the cap, I don't see any particular need to replace it. The extra 3 lbs only represents approx 10 degree higher boiling point.
HTH
