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DTE trans strut rod tightening

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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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Default DTE trans strut rod tightening

I had to remove one end of the lower drivers side strut rod to be able to check my auto trans fluid.

I marked everything. but the marks wiped off after i cleaned off some trans fluid/.

so, I need to know how to properly tighten just one rod. Since the coating chiped where I used a wrench on the flats. I want to remove it completey and re-coat it . I want to make sure its installed correctly

I have e-mailed Phil,, but I thought someone may already know how to tighten them up correctly. I cant get to all the rods..and hence cannot do them in the proper sequence , and I only need to do the lower drivers side one.

help me,, so I can wrap up this project. I had to remove my leaking radiator and lost some trans fluid ,,,,that is why I had to loosen the rod to check the fluid.

Last edited by wrustywrench; Mar 15, 2009 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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More than likely, since you tighten each rod ONE full turn after 0-lash, I would say to put it back to zero-lash and turn it one full turn, Making sure that you were, in fact tightening, not loosening.


I just installed mine recently, and i don t see why one turn wouldn t still be one turn. Good Luck!
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by intoc6s
More than likely, since you tighten each rod ONE full turn after 0-lash, I would say to put it back to zero-lash and turn it one full turn, Making sure that you were, in fact tightening, not loosening.


I just installed mine recently, and i don t see why one turn wouldn t still be one turn. Good Luck!

exactly what i thought,, but I was wondering if the sequence had to be done. I guess not, since everyone with an auto will have to loosen one rod and just tighten one rod....

I will do this.

thanks, robin
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Personally, I would wait for Phil. There are reasons for sequencing and application of the pre-tension in steps. If not tensioned correctly you could cause other issues.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 07:30 PM
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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man o man,,,,if that was in OT,, I would have been hit for terrible grammar and all sorts of stuff. you guys are tame.lol

sorry for the bad spelling and such... I was typing in the dark and did not proof read...( I really need to proof read more often..)

thanks,,,I hope Phil chines in Monday and give me a n easy answer
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 01:26 AM
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Taken from cajundude.com

Strut Rod Pre-Load Adjustment

1. Adjust all four strut rods to a static ZERO-lash first by HAND until they are JUST snub, making sure they are PULLING THEMSELVES TOGETHER during your adjustment procedure.

2. The proper adjustment sequence is as follows: passenger, upper right, driver's upper left, driver's lower left, and passenger lower right.

3. After ZERO lash adjustment is complete, tighten each respective strut rod IN SEQUENCE 1 (one) full turn past ZERO-lash in ∏-turn tightening increments, in sequence until 1 (one) full turn is reached.

DO NOT adjust the pre-load rods tighter than 1 (one) full turn pas ZERO-lash or differential damage/gear whine WILL occur. Once ZERO-lash has been completed for each rod, DO NOT further adjust to ZERO-lash as you proceed through the adjustment sequence even though pre-load rod may "feel" loose before final tightening is completed. These steps are ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL!

4. Lock down each respective pre-load rod jam nut at each Hiem joint stud.

Follow this step for all four main strut rods in prescribed sequence and when you are complete, each respective pre-load strut rod should have tightened up smoothly and evenly.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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Phil emailed, said " cold drivetrain, 1/2 turn after zero " for a rod that has been removed.

the one turn after zero is for a new install when you can get to all the bars.
I trust DTE and Phil,, so its 1/2 turn after zero......wheee.....

thanks to Phil, I am back in bixness
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