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Coolant Temps with DeWitts EOC Radiator?

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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Default Coolant Temps with DeWitts EOC Radiator?

I previously had a non-EOC DeWitts radiator in my car cooling my 427. Coolant temps were 186 to 190s cruising down the road in the summer. and slightly over 200 in traffic. This was with a 170 Vinci thermostat.

I now have a DeWitts with EOC in the car. The 170 stat croaked so I replaced it with 180 LPE stat when I put the EOC radiator in. My coolant temps were then 221 to 223 cruising down the road with ambient temos in the 50s. When I stopped the coolant temp would drop into the upper 190s. I figured that I must have gotten a bad stat from LPE so I bought a SLP 160 degree stat. Now my coolant temp is now 205 to 207 cruising down the road and the 192ish when stopped and idling. this seems backwards to me.

I talked to Tom and he assured me that this is normal.

My question for those of you with a DeWitts EOC radiator is what do your coolant temps run at?
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 04:52 PM
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Mark,
I have tha same DeWitts radiator/Eoc as you, and I just got back from Phoenix with the car. Temps down there with the air temps in the high 70's and low 80's were running around 178 on the freeway and 185 or so around town in traffic. I am running a 160 stat with the fan on and off temps programmed accordingly. Hope this helps.

Jimbo
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Thanks Jimbo.

I know that I am putting more heat onto the coolant with the EOC in there but it seems like it is running too darned hot.

I fully expected temps like what you are seeing. It seems to me that my coolant temp is about 20 degrees higher than it should be.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 7LitreC5
Thanks Jimbo.

I know that I am putting more heat onto the coolant with the EOC in there but it seems like it is running too darned hot.

I fully expected temps like what you are seeing. It seems to me that my coolant temp is about 20 degrees higher than it should be.
I think what you are seeing here is the flow characteristics of the stat and not the radiator. Based on your numbers you had

Without EOC the range was 186-200+
with EOC it is 192-207

It looks like the eoc added 5-7 degrees which is understandable. I don't see running 20 degrees cooler, that would be 15 cooler than you were without the eoc.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I think what you are seeing here is the flow characteristics of the stat and not the radiator. Based on your numbers you had

Without EOC the range was 186-200+
with EOC it is 192-207

It looks like the eoc added 5-7 degrees which is understandable. I don't see running 20 degrees cooler, that would be 15 cooler than you were without the eoc.
No axe to grind for either camp here, but I don't believe this answers the OP's question.

He sez that before, he ran cooler when cruising than when sitting (makes sense, more airflow through the rad), and now he's hotter cruising than when sitting. Any idea why? Doesn't make any intuitive sense to me, but I'm not on site to verify reported temps, eyeball the installation, etc.

Curious on the Right Coast.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 07:34 AM
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Thanks Tom.

I don't understand 2 things now. One is the running hotter while at steady state (50-55 mph) and cooler in traffic. I have never seen a vehicle that I have owned do that.

the other item is the temps that ZOOMZ06 is seeing. That is what I expected. Why would his run 27-29 degrees cooler than mine? We have the same EOC radiator model purchased at the same time and the same temp thermostat.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 7LitreC5
Thanks Tom.

I don't understand 2 things now. One is the running hotter while at steady state (50-55 mph) and cooler in traffic. I have never seen a vehicle that I have owned do that.

the other item is the temps that ZOOMZ06 is seeing. That is what I expected. Why would his run 27-29 degrees cooler than mine? We have the same EOC radiator model purchased at the same time and the same temp thermostat.
This really makes me NEED to check my temps(with a known accurate guage).....I also have a 7.0L engine. I have a 180 thermostat and a Meziere electric water pump. My temps NEVER get as hot as your temps you describe.(By the guage) Im just not sure how close the stock guage is tho...I have the stock radiator, myself.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 08:48 AM
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Any chance you have air in the system? I am running the same radiator and my coolant temps never get above 190 unless I am on the track. This holds true for my recently installed LS3 416. The temps are always higher sitting still than cruising at 50mph. Sometimes it can be difficult to burp these things.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 09:24 AM
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I have drained and refilled the system twice. I had a local shop use some cooling system pressure thing that they have to get any air out. I have tried both a new 180 stat and a 160 stat.

I have drained/filled the cooling system in this car 12 or 15 times and never had a problem with air in the system.

This problem just does not make sense to me.


Originally Posted by Rob's 73
Any chance you have air in the system? I am running the same radiator and my coolant temps never get above 190 unless I am on the track. This holds true for my recently installed LS3 416. The temps are always higher sitting still than cruising at 50mph. Sometimes it can be difficult to burp these things.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 7LitreC5
I have drained and refilled the system twice. I had a local shop use some cooling system pressure thing that they have to get any air out. I have tried both a new 180 stat and a 160 stat.

I have drained/filled the cooling system in this car 12 or 15 times and never had a problem with air in the system.

This problem just does not make sense to me.
Is the guage an accurate one? Just checkin'.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 7LitreC5
Thanks Tom.

I don't understand 2 things now. One is the running hotter while at steady state (50-55 mph) and cooler in traffic. I have never seen a vehicle that I have owned do that.

the other item is the temps that ZOOMZ06 is seeing. That is what I expected. Why would his run 27-29 degrees cooler than mine? We have the same EOC radiator model purchased at the same time and the same temp thermostat.

My car does the same thing. My oil temps hit 215 to 220 when running down the interstate at say 60 to 70 MPH, but it runs much cooler in traffic. I have a Dewits with the trans cooler. I am currently going to aftermarket fans, and an EOC and ETC, both bar and plate with fans.

When driving over 55 MPH i can watch my oil temps rise, and soon after the coolant temps start to follow, but never getting over mid 190s.

Alot of this is due to the supercharger and the location of my intercooler and radiator. But I am in the process of picking the radiator back up (close to strait up and down) adding the trans and oil cooler and reclocating my intercooler.

Alot of work, but hopefully wil add som life to my engine and trans. At veryleast itwill give me some piece of mind when it runs cooler.

LionelC
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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It was last I November. The reason I replaced the thermostat in the first place is because it was hosed and was causing the car to run at 140 to 150 degrees.

Originally Posted by intoc6s
Is the guage an accurate one? Just checkin'.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mneblett
No I don't believe this answers the OP's question.

He sez that before, he ran cooler when cruising than when sitting (makes sense, more airflow through the rad), and now he's hotter cruising than when sitting. Any idea why?
Curious on the Right Coast.

I did suggest an answer, and that was different flow characteristics of the thermostat.

Many people have reported higher temps when at high speeds and that could be due to the increase hp it takes to go faster and/or timing. You work harder when you jog vs walking, and so does the car.

Radiators are pretty simple devices and there isn't a lot of variables that can change with one, except for the obvious degrading from crud.
Motors on the other hand have numberous variables that can affect heat generation and the final temperature. That includes ambient temps, coolant water ratio, pump flow, air flow, stat, timing and tuning.

In the end, these numbers don't sound bad at all and I see no reason to be concerned.
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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I guess that I will have to get a male-male -10 AN coupler and bypass the EOC.

If the temp drops then the EOC is causing the temperature rise.

If the temp does not drop it there is some other problem.

The tune is the same on that I ran all last summer. The only things that have been changed is a regular DeWitts to an EOC DeWitts and a dead 170 thermostat to both a 180 and a 160 stat.

Last edited by 7LitreC5; Mar 17, 2009 at 06:40 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 05:19 AM
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Other things that I have done to ensure airflow through the radiator:

Sealed up the ac condenser to radiator gaps with foil tape.

Sealed up the shroud to condenser with duct tape.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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i to am working cooling issues,
i found out the fans cut out at 45 mph.i have mine come on at 160 deg,both,and stay on.if you turn on the a/c and try it at 55 mph this keeps them on.i will say the air dam makes a difference.we have experimented to make what i have.i wish i had your problem at stop or low speed instead of the opposite.
has for my car ,i have two 12" spals ,160 them,20%dextron,two bottle wetter and the rest water.i have a 6 qt. aluminum expansion tank in the battery tray.
mine runs 185-189 down the road and 205 w/a/c.

at idle and in traffic it climbs up slowly.234 deg is were i start to freak out.i have read and run it at 260+ with no damage.
i am looking for a radiator now,


ps i will try the tape idea,sometimes it is the simple stuff

lxW=aprox HP,as told by mike at Howe racing.
looking at a cross flow dual pass if i can make it work,31x19x3 w/cooler,no fill neck.i got a threaded neck for the expansion tank.so i use the factury cap.
any ideas on a radiator would help me.
mike in mobile
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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If you aren't cooling the oil in the EOC you are then transfering the heat from the oil to the coolant in the block and then cooling that in the radiator. The heat has to go somewhere. As for coolant temps I am always more concerend about engine oil temp Vs coolant temps. The damage comes when the engine oil gets too hot.

Bill
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:18 PM
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just bought a Howe 28.375x16x3 ,2 rows per" ,no filler neck,oil cooler,the core is 2.250 thick and is a cross flow.this is so i can move it back away from the .25" inter cooler clearance i have now.i all so found out that when i changed the factory fans out i needed to shroud off the back side were the new fans are.
i think i get it now.i will add the Evans R 400* waterless.
mike
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by z06 vett
i think i get it now.i will add the Evans R 400* waterless. mike
Be prepared to see the temps go up. Read the literature
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 02:50 AM
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you mean the Evans?
i saw that,
280* to cook out the remaining water?
i will blow out what i can with air and then,if i have to do the plugs.
i did speak to an expert at Evans and he answered my questions and offered up advice.i have over heated three or four times and towed home once.all when i am out hard driving,boosting over 100 mph for extended time.my sys. seems to gather heat and not dissipate it well.
i have two gal. of prep and three race 400.the new radiator and shroud that I'll make.hoping for 200* with a/c on all the time.
the Dewitt is a nice piece for a swap.i needed a universal for a custom install.
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