If you have any tips on installing American Racing headers I would like to hear them. I did a first try and they don't look close to going in. How high does the car need to be, and does the starter need to come loose?

 

It may help if you read the instructions:

http://www.americanracingheaders.com...stallSheet.htm

 

I installed mine from the bottom. It really helps if you loosen up the starter on the passenger side and take the steering shaft loose on the driver's side. Make sure you remove all the spark plugs and un-do the ground strap from either the frame or engine block on the driver's side.
FWIW these are the easiest headers to install I've ever seen. I had Dynatech Supermaxx LT's on my car before these and they were alot harder to get in. Good luck and keep us posted.

Jimbo

 

Below is a link I found on installing longtube headers on a C5. Different brand, but should provide some basic info. I recently installed Kooks LT headers in my '02, and to be honest, it was a challenge, but not too bad. I had to remove oil filter, alternator, loosen starter, unbolt and jack engine up (one side at a time, with other bolt loose), unhook steering, along with other items. At firtst I thought maybe I had the wrong headers, but after they get where they belong, they fit precisely. I believe I read somewhere that car has to be 28 inches in the air, but I might be mistaken. Hope this helps, Mike.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29

 

i used the AR header instructions when i did mine, i didn't have to loosen starter or steering shaft. i did it on jackstands and headers slipped right in. i would get mls header gaskets and not use the graphite ones they give you.

 

I just did the TPIS headers and I did remove the alternator and valve covers, and loosened the sterering shaft. I did NOT remove the spark plugs or the ground strap though. I put them in from the top.

When I did the LG's, the drivers side went in from the top and passenger from the bottom.

 

Yea, I have the install instructions, got the left side in but the right gets caught between the ac line and the block. I took the starter loose but it didn't help. I may have to raise the car more.

 

Didn't loosen starter or steering shaft either....was unnecesary so don't blindly do it unless needed. I did take off coil packs/brackets to make it easier access. Very straightforward install.

 

Here you go Vettezeke,

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...s-learned.html

 

Here are some notes I wrote down when I installed mine. I am lucky enough to own a lift so I had the car up high...

Passenger side:
- remove starter (2 bolts)
- move all wiring up and out of the way
- note, AC/compressor bracket was not installed in the car (doing an engine swap so hadn't got to it yet and figured it might help to not have the compressor in the way. An Elite Engineering Catch Can WAS installed on the head.
- Important note, install starter back on the block BEFORE inserting any bolts in the header.

Feed header up from bottom and lead with the part of the flange furthest from you. Push up and twist slightly until flange closest to you is near the bellhousing, tilt far end down a bit and push up.

Drivers side:
- move clutch hose out of bellhousing holder (just push up)
- remove clip on the firewall for the 02 sensor wires (try a test fit and you will see which one is in the way)
- move all other wiring up and out of the way
- note, alternator was not yet installed from engine swap, not sure you would need to remove it.

Feed header up from the bottom and lead with the part of the flange furthest from you. Push up and twist slightly until flange closest to you is near the bellhousing. Far end of the flange should be nearly touching the base of the head, tilt far end down and twist slightly and push up.

 

Thanks for the help, I think I will try losening the ac compressor mount bolts and slide the compressor outward rather than trying to bend the pipe. You would be bending it near where it is welded to the comp manifold. Didn't look like a good option.

 

Yes, that happened to me too. What I did was dropped the engine cradle by 1/2" and then jack the engine up (place the jack on the bolt of the engine mount) and then the header will slide right in from the bottom. No need to undo the starter or its wires.

Dropping the cradle involves loosening the four nuts. And the motor mounts involve two nuts on the bottom of the cradle.

 

No problem installing mine. I did wrap old t-shirts around them while working them in place to minimize the scratches to the ceramic coating. Getting the starter wires reconnected was not easy for me as I could barely fit my hands in there. I left everything loose until it was installed and went from front to back and tightened as I went.

I pre-assembled to make sure all was well.








I also heat-wrapped the starter while I had it out.

 

Have a second set of hands hold the line away from the header while you slip you don't have to permanently bend it,it in should go no problem no need to move the compressor

 

I installed over 15 sets along w/ Tom and the AR crew at Carlisle last year(dozens more in the past 3 years)

1. It can be done in 1.5 hours w/ 2 skilled wrench turners

2. What size tubes are you using?

3. either way, don't touch the a/c comp