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2001 with 50000 miles, first noticed engine died at a stop. some what rough running. I restarted the car and drove on. ran fine I pulled in to get a coffee, came out, tried to start the car NO GO! engine light was on, dash lights and display flashing, display said low voltage. But I did have my coffee. Played with the key tried a few starts, and it started.
Drove home parked, turned off, tried to start NO GO! I was not able to restart the car. Battery check, good. I banged on the solenoid, nothing.I checked all wiring connections, good. So I jumped TDR, starter turned.
When I try to start the car all gauges go to 0, and panel lights are going crazy blinking, starter might go thump thats it. NO CODES current. leftthe car for a couple of hours, cleaned the key. Tried to start but NO GO. Sitting I played with the key in the lock and was able to start the car!!! I am not sure what I did But was able to repeat it.Could this just be the lock cylinder.
ALSO do cell phones affect the pellet in the key? help!
Batteries are easy to check.. Rip it out and take it down to Autozone. If the battery proves good,,,,you could very well have an ignition switch problem. There are fool proof ways to check this out. Take voltage reading at all of the fuses that are powered on when the ignition key is in the ON/RUN position. Make sure each fuse is being supplied battery voltage. If the switch s bad, the output will be LESS (like 7-8 VDC)
I have an IGNITION SWITCH repair post that details all of this. Look for it.
If you have the OEM battery you probably have one of the early AC Delco AGM batteries. If it lasted 8 years thats good going so try fitting a new one. That will almost certainly fix the problem
O.K. Men!
Had a year-old Optima in her. Kudos to Autozone... they just gave me a new battery, which I installed. Unfortunately, the starting problem is still there... intermittently.
Symptoms:
1. Insert the key
2. Turn to Accessory (radio and misc items work in this position)
3. Turn to Guages (headlights pop up, the "ODO" on odometer blinks, the Security light blinks, and the gauges stay at zero... but the engine will not turn over when I turn the key further to the Start position.
4. If I try to start the car ten times, one time the display will read "LOW VOLTAGE" (even with the new battery).
5. If I play with the key enough times (apx 20 times) I might get the car to start normally, but after shutting down the problem remains.
Sound familiar? If I'm checking the ignition switch do I test all fuses for low voltage or just a select few? If that's the case, which few?
In the post check out page/reply number 64. It details the fuses to check with the switch in the ON position.
BC
Originally Posted by Dirtin
O.K. Men!
Had a year-old Optima in her. Kudos to Autozone... they just gave me a new battery, which I installed. Unfortunately, the starting problem is still there... intermittently.
Symptoms:
1. Insert the key
2. Turn to Accessory (radio and misc items work in this position)
3. Turn to Guages (headlights pop up, the "ODO" on odometer blinks, the Security light blinks, and the gauges stay at zero... but the engine will not turn over when I turn the key further to the Start position.
4. If I try to start the car ten times, one time the display will read "LOW VOLTAGE" (even with the new battery).
5. If I play with the key enough times (apx 20 times) I might get the car to start normally, but after shutting down the problem remains.
Sound familiar? If I'm checking the ignition switch do I test all fuses for low voltage or just a select few? If that's the case, which few?
No after market security system installed. I found Bill's switch post. I had a Idea if it is the switch why not try to clean it. I picked up some contact cleaner at Radio Shack. I removed battery cable, sprayed into the key opening let sit turned key a few times then blew it out with air, cleaned the key with it. Connected the battery, first start attempt did not work but after that car starts as it should. I have started it a few times over rhe last 24 hours and no problem! I don't think I'll drive her untill I change the switch or rebuild. I gotta gain some trust that this really is the problem. You guys are great, Thanks.
I really think its your ignition switch.. I had many of the same problems you are having, Bill Directed my towards his Ignition Switch Repair thread. I did the Repair and have not had a problem since...
P.S. There is no way that Cleaner threw the key hole will reach the contact points of the problem.
I really think its your ignition switch.. I had many of the same problems you are having, Bill Directed my towards his Ignition Switch Repair thread. I did the Repair and have not had a problem since...
P.S. There is no way that Cleaner threw the key hole will reach the contact points of the problem.
I was JUST going to say that EXACT statement! Your my VETERAN Ignition Switch man!
Unless you remove the switch and physically clean the contacts, you not going to get much resolve. When you disassemble it clean it and bend the contact arms for better contact, you will be very happy with the improvement in switch operation and feel!!
Dirtin
If you want to see a very interesting IGNITION SWITCH post, check out my reply to "slvrzo6" post on the issues he was having with his car.
I will see if I can find it and add a link to it. You will see how incompetent some dealers really are!!
BC
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 31, 2009 at 07:53 PM.
I'm not sure if I'm seeing symptoms of this problem or not?....After starting my 2004 auto coupe, my A/C temp readout and my radio readout (green led display) start to fade gradually, then "Pop" return to normal brightness.....has anyone noticed this behavior just prior to the switch failure?
Also, about every 30th start or so, I get a DIC warning "CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT" upon starting, but it then starts normally and the DIC clears.....No codes current or history....
didn't feel like reading bills stuff but my issue was a loose starter cable from the battery to the starter at the starter. once i tightened that cable the problem went away