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Just installed an LS2 timing set with #12586482 chain. The chain is not tight - 1/8" to 1/4" slop each side. What's up with that? Should I install the lifters and heads first? (Maybe the rear of the cam is lifting up?) When I repalced my L98 set-up the new chain was as tight as a banjo string.
Also, anyone know what torque for the timing chain dampener bolts?
(most) LS1s didn't come with a damper, but yes, that's exactly why that piece exists if you do have one, to prevent chain wrap and binding.
If you are degreeing the cam, make sure to only spin the engine clockwise, to keep the loose side of the chain consistent. There's at least a few degrees of slop there if you back it up.
The timing set I installed last week said it should have .003 to .006 of backlash.
What type of set was that? When one side is tight, I've got about 1/4" wag on the other side on the LS2 chain.
Also, my block is drilled tapped for a dampener, but the bolt layout on the 04 dampener I bought is different so it won't work. Are there dampener versions for early blocks?
What type of set was that? When one side is tight, I've got about 1/4" wag on the other side on the LS2 chain.
Also, my block is drilled tapped for a dampener, but the bolt layout on the 04 dampener I bought is different so it won't work. Are there dampener versions for early blocks?
Never put a damper on an early block. Get a dail indicator and check the backlash on the cam gear. That's really the only way you'll know if you have to much slack.
And the last one I installed was a Pro Gear, I don't use the LS2 chains.
Of whatever chain tensioner setup you used to net those backlash results.
Most direct drive flexible couplings cannot achieve that tight of backlash, I can't imagine a chain drive ever coming close to doing so if not tensioned.
Of whatever chain tensioner setup you used to net those backlash results.
Most direct drive flexible couplings cannot achieve that tight of backlash, I can't imagine a chain drive ever coming close to doing so if not tensioned.
Really, you should try something other than LS2 timing sets.
Here's where I'm coming from; I'm in the middle of a heads / cam swap (80,000 mi. LS1). Obviously while I'm in there a new timing set is in order. I think an LS2 set is adequate for my needs (Basically a daily driver). If there is a strong enough opinion for a timing set other than stock for my application I'm all ears. I was just asking if all was good with my present LS2 set install before I button it up.
Here's where I'm coming from; I'm in the middle of a heads / cam swap (80,000 mi. LS1). Obviously while I'm in there a new timing set is in order. I think an LS2 set is adequate for my needs (Basically a daily driver). If there is a strong enough opinion for a timing set other than stock for my application I'm all ears. I was just asking if all was good with my present LS2 set install before I button it up.
The LS2 chain has been fine for tens of thousands of other cars (including mine), I'm sure it'll work fine for you too.
From all the above replies, I take it the 1/4" wag is normal.
And like I said, just check the backlash rather than shacking the slack in the chain. The Ls2 chain will work fine did you degree the cam and see if the slack is causing a problem?
I appreciate all the replies. If backlash is forward / rearward movement of the cam, mine has none with the retainer plate installed. Right or wrong, I was hoping to get away without degreeing the cam so I don't know if the slack issue will have any adverse affects.
I was just asking what other's experiences were with timing chain slack on a new set up and if mine was excessive. The FSM doesn't seem to address slack in the timing chain.