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Need a Quick Answer! Timing Chain "Slop"

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Default Need a Quick Answer! Timing Chain "Slop"

Just installed an LS2 timing set with #12586482 chain. The chain is not tight - 1/8" to 1/4" slop each side. What's up with that? Should I install the lifters and heads first? (Maybe the rear of the cam is lifting up?) When I repalced my L98 set-up the new chain was as tight as a banjo string.

Also, anyone know what torque for the timing chain dampener bolts?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by geezel
......(Maybe the rear of the cam is lifting up?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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As far as I know some "slop" is normal/allowed...
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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How much slop is normal? Won't the chain be slapping againt the dampener? Or maybe that's what the dampener is for...
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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They are sloppy. It's normal.

(most) LS1s didn't come with a damper, but yes, that's exactly why that piece exists if you do have one, to prevent chain wrap and binding.

If you are degreeing the cam, make sure to only spin the engine clockwise, to keep the loose side of the chain consistent. There's at least a few degrees of slop there if you back it up.

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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The timing set I installed last week said it should have .003 to .006 of backlash.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
The timing set I installed last week said it should have .003 to .006 of backlash.
Pics of the tensioner?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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The timing set I installed last week said it should have .003 to .006 of backlash.
What type of set was that? When one side is tight, I've got about 1/4" wag on the other side on the LS2 chain.
Also, my block is drilled tapped for a dampener, but the bolt layout on the 04 dampener I bought is different so it won't work. Are there dampener versions for early blocks?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by geezel
What type of set was that? When one side is tight, I've got about 1/4" wag on the other side on the LS2 chain.
Also, my block is drilled tapped for a dampener, but the bolt layout on the 04 dampener I bought is different so it won't work. Are there dampener versions for early blocks?
Never put a damper on an early block. Get a dail indicator and check the backlash on the cam gear. That's really the only way you'll know if you have to much slack.

And the last one I installed was a Pro Gear, I don't use the LS2 chains.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
Pics of the tensioner?
What pic's are you talking about?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
What pic's are you talking about?
Of whatever chain tensioner setup you used to net those backlash results.


Most direct drive flexible couplings cannot achieve that tight of backlash, I can't imagine a chain drive ever coming close to doing so if not tensioned.


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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
Of whatever chain tensioner setup you used to net those backlash results.


Most direct drive flexible couplings cannot achieve that tight of backlash, I can't imagine a chain drive ever coming close to doing so if not tensioned.


Really, you should try something other than LS2 timing sets.

http://www.progearweb.com/4000/pg4210.htm
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
Really, you should try something other than LS2 timing sets.

http://www.progearweb.com/4000/pg4210.htm
You sound just like all the other salesmen you claim to despise....


Click the smiley if you fail to understand


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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 09:19 PM
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Here's where I'm coming from; I'm in the middle of a heads / cam swap (80,000 mi. LS1). Obviously while I'm in there a new timing set is in order. I think an LS2 set is adequate for my needs (Basically a daily driver). If there is a strong enough opinion for a timing set other than stock for my application I'm all ears. I was just asking if all was good with my present LS2 set install before I button it up.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by geezel
Here's where I'm coming from; I'm in the middle of a heads / cam swap (80,000 mi. LS1). Obviously while I'm in there a new timing set is in order. I think an LS2 set is adequate for my needs (Basically a daily driver). If there is a strong enough opinion for a timing set other than stock for my application I'm all ears. I was just asking if all was good with my present LS2 set install before I button it up.
The LS2 chain has been fine for tens of thousands of other cars (including mine), I'm sure it'll work fine for you too.

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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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From all the above replies, I take it the 1/4" wag is normal.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
You sound just like all the other salesmen you claim to despise....


Click the smiley if you fail to understand


And I don't even sell them.

And as you can tell from that thread there's going to be slack in all of them, it's just a matter of how much and how accurate it is when degreed.

Last edited by willyfastz; Mar 29, 2009 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by geezel
From all the above replies, I take it the 1/4" wag is normal.
And like I said, just check the backlash rather than shacking the slack in the chain. The Ls2 chain will work fine did you degree the cam and see if the slack is causing a problem?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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I appreciate all the replies. If backlash is forward / rearward movement of the cam, mine has none with the retainer plate installed. Right or wrong, I was hoping to get away without degreeing the cam so I don't know if the slack issue will have any adverse affects.
I was just asking what other's experiences were with timing chain slack on a new set up and if mine was excessive. The FSM doesn't seem to address slack in the timing chain.

Last edited by geezel; Mar 29, 2009 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
The LS2 chain has been fine for tens of thousands of other cars (including mine), I'm sure it'll work fine for you too.

20k miles so far with an LS2 timing chain on a 224/228 .641"/.646" lift cam and Patriot Golds.. been fine to 6600+ many times

I also didn't degree anything..

Get the crank mark to TDC, then rotate the cam CCW to take up the slack (don't move the crank) and see if the marks still line up.

Last edited by DuronClocker; Mar 29, 2009 at 10:28 PM.
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