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I appreciate all the replies. If backlash is forward / rearward movement of the cam, mine has none with the retainer plate installed. Right or wrong, I was hoping to get away without degreeing the cam so I don't know if the slack issue will have any adverse affects.
I was just asking what other's experiences were with timing chain slack on a new set up and if mine was excessive. The FSM doesn't seem to address slack in the timing chain.
The backlash would be how much the cam sprocket moves back and forth while not moving the crank.
Without degreeing the cam you wont know if the slack is a problem or not. Many don't and have no problems but could they have made 440rwhp instead of 430rwhp? You just don't know unless you check it. Just as the springs and pushrods should be set up properly.
The Progear set is a very nice set. I bought the Cloyes IRL set when I did mine. Cloyes makes the OEM timing sets for GM. Call Mike at their performance tech line and talk to him about how much slop you have in your setup. Without degreeing the cam, you won't know where your cam timing is.
On the timing chain damper, yes there were two. One is tan in color which fits the earlier years. The tan one was sold through GMPP and is no longer available. It was well over $100 when you could buy it because GM designed it but never put it into productions. The black timing chain damper (the one it sounds like you have) fit some late 04 blocks and the LS2. Some have adapted it but there is no known fix that has shown long term durability. That said, the damper aids in the chain wrap issue these motors have coming off throttle in the upper RPM. The chain tends to want to stay with the crank sprocket and when it happens the chain breaks. A lot of guys blame the chain, but there is more to it.
I want to stay with an adjustable single chain....whats a good single? Also plan on keeping my stock oil pump currently running the stock ls6 chain
with the degreeing of the cam in general how far off is dot to dot, Ideally I'd like to just do a single chain with stock gears and be done with it something like the Katech (C5R single chain) But I dont think that setup can be adjusted...so looking to see how far off dot to dot is
maybe i should ask this...one thing ive never bothered to do is timing chains...always had good luck with stockers, but where is the adjustment made when "degreeing a cam"
and for the guys doing LS2 chains or using stockers....could one check the degree and if its very close at dot to dot be good to go without having to go adjustable? Problem with that is a lot of people dont have that kind of downtime
so what im gathering is also making sure the cam is running as it was designed with a setup custom spec'd there is power to be had by ensure proper degreeing setup?
im pulling my 236 238 601 605 113+2 XER for a
235 243 620 623 111+3 LSL cam (cam doctored at 237.32 244.87 .61832 0.62105 ICL 108)
Last edited by Kurtomac; Mar 30, 2009 at 09:37 AM.
maybe i should ask this...one thing ive never bothered to do is timing chains...always had good luck with stockers, but where is the adjustment made when "degreeing a cam"
Kurt, I am going to degree my cam on install shortly. The adjustment is basically made with an offset bushing on the cam gear. That way you can finely position the cam for proper valve events. You can not do that with the stock timing set. I have heard some say that they check and try to adjust by moving the chain a tooth, but that does not give fine adjustment. You can degree your cam with stock set and check...and if ok you are good to go. The problemis that if you aren't then you have downtime and have to install an adjustable set and redo the whole process.
A good single setup is the Cloyes Hex Adjust. I bought the premium setup from LPE with the IRL single chain. This is reported to be better than even the C5R chain. I believe the set I ordered was the Cloyes 3153-AL. Hope that helps some as I am just learning all this too!
holy F...thats an expensive timing chain setup
are you sure you meant to put a 3 at the beginning?
Yes. This is the chain that solved the problems they were have with the Olds Aurora motor they ran Indy with. It is blue printed, shot peened and hand assembled. Very expensive but a top knotch setup. I have the same setup.
As for checking the cam, you can use a degree wheel with the stock setup to verify the cam installation, the only issue you "could" run into is you won't have the ability to correct it if it should be off.