anyone know the current draw on a C5
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Corona Ca
anyone know the current draw on a C5
Does anyone know where I can find the current draw for a C5? I need both the total draw (after the car is in sleep mode) and on a few of the individual circuits. The circuits I need are as follows:
RDO/CD, BMC1&IPC, DCM-L, and DCM-R.
Thanks
RDO/CD, BMC1&IPC, DCM-L, and DCM-R.
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
20-25 milliamps is what you should have. 
The fuse rating for that circuits is the max draw so,,,most likely 25% less than the fuse rating. My guess.
The fuse rating for that circuits is the max draw so,,,most likely 25% less than the fuse rating. My guess.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Corona Ca
Thanks for the info, now I am really confused.
My total draw in sleep mode is 1.6 amps.
My Radio draws 740 ma (.74 amps)
My CD changer draws 340ma (.34 amps)
The BCM1&IPC fuse (fuse #25 which I believe is the Body Control Module and Instrument Panel Cluster) draws 300ma (.3 amps).
Finally the DCM-L (fuse # 30) and the DCM-R (fuse # 34) ( Which I believe is the Door Control Module right & left) each draw 30ma (.03amps).
Hard pressed to believe all of those are bad. Must be doing something wrong I guess.
My total draw in sleep mode is 1.6 amps.
My Radio draws 740 ma (.74 amps)
My CD changer draws 340ma (.34 amps)
The BCM1&IPC fuse (fuse #25 which I believe is the Body Control Module and Instrument Panel Cluster) draws 300ma (.3 amps).
Finally the DCM-L (fuse # 30) and the DCM-R (fuse # 34) ( Which I believe is the Door Control Module right & left) each draw 30ma (.03amps).
Hard pressed to believe all of those are bad. Must be doing something wrong I guess.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,282
Likes: 58
From: Somewhere out there
When testing parasitic draw you need to let the car 'go to sleep'. Hook everything up and walk away, come back in 5 minutes and see what you get then. Make sure to pull the under hood lamp too.
Having 1.6 amp draw at rest is huge and there is problem, but I agree not all of your listed items can be bad. Is your stereo stock? The BCM at 300ma sounds like it has not fully shut down yet same with the DCMs. Are the doors closed?
-KOZ
Having 1.6 amp draw at rest is huge and there is problem, but I agree not all of your listed items can be bad. Is your stereo stock? The BCM at 300ma sounds like it has not fully shut down yet same with the DCMs. Are the doors closed?
-KOZ
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When testing parasitic draw you need to let the car 'go to sleep'. Hook everything up and walk away, come back in 5 minutes and see what you get then. Make sure to pull the under hood lamp too.
Having 1.6 amp draw at rest is huge and there is problem, but I agree not all of your listed items can be bad. Is your stereo stock? The BCM at 300ma sounds like it has not fully shut down yet same with the DCMs. Are the doors closed?
-KOZ
Having 1.6 amp draw at rest is huge and there is problem, but I agree not all of your listed items can be bad. Is your stereo stock? The BCM at 300ma sounds like it has not fully shut down yet same with the DCMs. Are the doors closed?
-KOZ
100% on the mark! When you turn the ignition switch OFF, you turn power OFF to many modules and relays. If you had a service manual you would be able to check all the circuits that are powered by the ignition switch when its in the "HOT in ON and START. Theres another circuit that id "HOT at ALL TIMES" What usually happens is a relay that gets turned on by the HOT in ON and START, sticks ON and what ever it powers, stays on. A good exanple of that is the Bose Amp.
Most of the excessive current draw issues is caused by the drivers power seat. Just umplug it and see if you get a change.
Make SURE that your car is secure (doors shut, hood light OFF, trunk shut and RAP circuit is off.) and with in 5-10 minutes the BCM should go into sleep mode and you will / should see minimum current draw.
Remember, if you break the battery circuit any time during the test, you start the timer all over again.
There are other things that commonly cause this issue but try the seat and bose amp first.
BC
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Corona Ca
Thanks again. You guys are the best. I really appreciate the help.
KOZ- the Stereo is stock, and I have made sure all the doors and stuff are closed.
Bill,
I held the meter on the posts for about 1 minute, and the draw did drop down to 540ma. from the 1.6 amps.
With your help, I believe I found the problem. I disconnected the CD changer, and held the meter again as Bill suggested, and now it dropped down to 70ma.
I am willing to bet that if I were to wait 15-20 minutes it would drop off to the 25-30 ma reading (but my meter has a 10 minute limit on constant measurement of current (don't ask me why).
I am going to leave the CD disconnected for a few weeks and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks again for the help.
KOZ- the Stereo is stock, and I have made sure all the doors and stuff are closed.
Bill,
I held the meter on the posts for about 1 minute, and the draw did drop down to 540ma. from the 1.6 amps.
With your help, I believe I found the problem. I disconnected the CD changer, and held the meter again as Bill suggested, and now it dropped down to 70ma.
I am willing to bet that if I were to wait 15-20 minutes it would drop off to the 25-30 ma reading (but my meter has a 10 minute limit on constant measurement of current (don't ask me why).
I am going to leave the CD disconnected for a few weeks and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks again for the help.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Weird meter!
Well,,,if thats the case, I have your solution.
Find a screw that will screw into the battery negative terminal. Attach TWO wires to that screw. Attach one wire to the Neg battery cable and the other wire to the meter. Then connect the other meter lead to the negative battery cable.
Once the car enters sleep mode (given that its sat for the required time), turn on the meter and once its ON, disconnect the wire that goes from the neg battery cable to the battery. Once that wire is disconnected, the current will be flowing thru the meter and should give you the reading that your looking for.
The meter will still be completing the circuit so there should have been ZERO disruption of current flow and the meter will be able to read sleep current draw.
BC
Well,,,if thats the case, I have your solution.
Find a screw that will screw into the battery negative terminal. Attach TWO wires to that screw. Attach one wire to the Neg battery cable and the other wire to the meter. Then connect the other meter lead to the negative battery cable.
Once the car enters sleep mode (given that its sat for the required time), turn on the meter and once its ON, disconnect the wire that goes from the neg battery cable to the battery. Once that wire is disconnected, the current will be flowing thru the meter and should give you the reading that your looking for.
The meter will still be completing the circuit so there should have been ZERO disruption of current flow and the meter will be able to read sleep current draw.
BC
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