When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I had a issue with my crank bolt coming loose. Don't know why. Replaced the bolt again, took it to 240 lbs and now it has come loose again. Any ideas what this could be from? Thanks for any help. Car is an 03 Z06 with heads/cam full bolt ons and 150 shot.
I am not sure where the 240 ft lbs comes from. That is the torque to mount the balancer but the GM book is VERY specific about first and second passes being done on the bolt.
New bolt, red loctite. First pass is something like 38 ft lbs. NEXT AND MOST IMPORTANT is the torque 140 DEGREES of rotation. If you dont have a degree index, get one. cheap and easy to use. http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/tag281.jpg
Theres a picture of one. 140 degrees takes EVERYTHING I have to get it that tight (6' 190lbs and in shape) on a 26 inch breaker bar. Longer pipe would make it easier, but I couldn't get the space under the car. My torque wrench is a 250 pounder and it pops LOOONG before I reach 140 degrees.
Sorry you have to do the job again man, just sounds like the bolt is not tight enough. Unless the threads are galled up, which you would know as you pull the bolt back out, you are good to go.
Have always used a new bolt and done the right procedure to tighten it up. This is the second time. First time was on the N20 this time was on the motor.
Crankshaft is out of balance and the pulley is walking off. You probably thrashed your main bearings and sent metal throughout the engine. Rebuild time.
Just kidding. I've never had this problem. Perhaps an ARP bolt would be worth a try.
If you re-used your stock pulley I have always felt that it loses some of its interference fit and it more likely to spin than a new one. Correct procedure should be followed too, but I have always had a suspicion that re-use contributes to this happening.
I did my own h/c job back in '02. Pulley got lose after 50 miles. Took it to a local shop that specializes in vettes, no problems since. Worth the $$ for the fact that they know how to it, and did it right.
If you re-used your stock pulley I have always felt that it loses some of its interference fit and it more likely to spin than a new one. Correct procedure should be followed too, but I have always had a suspicion that re-use contributes to this happening.
If the stock pulley has spun twice, there's an issue. While it's apart, get a another pulley (go with UD for a few more hp) and pin the crank. The pulley is spinnig on the crank and backing out the bolt.
Remove all the old crap and trash the old stuff. Purchase a new Powerbond damper. The power bond damper has a key way that will allow you to side pin the crank. Beg, borrow or purchase a side crank pinning kit and pin the crank. That process sounds very complicated but,,,,it is amazingly simple and takes about 30 minutes TOPS to preform.
The crank snout is most likely worn from the old dampers spinning on the crank shaft (which is normally machined to a TIGHT press fit with the stock damper. ) and will not support installing a stock or an aftermarket damper without pinning. The pin prevents the damper from slipping or spinning on the crank. That movement causes the bolt to come loose.
Replaced my stock crank pulley with Powerbond (as suggested above). We used an ARP bolt (that's where the 240 ft lbs spec comes from). No problems since. No pinning. 125 shot on my stock bottom end.
Remove all the old crap and trash the old stuff. Purchase a new Powerbond damper. The power bond damper has a key way that will allow you to side pin the crank. Beg, borrow or purchase a side crank pinning kit and pin the crank. That process sounds very complicated but,,,,it is amazingly simple and takes about 30 minutes TOPS to preform.
The crank snout is most likely worn from the old dampers spinning on the crank shaft (which is normally machined to a TIGHT press fit with the stock damper. ) and will not support installing a stock or an aftermarket damper without pinning. The pin prevents the damper from slipping or spinning on the crank. That movement causes the bolt to come loose.
You can pin any crank and balancer. Even a stock balancer can be pinned. Just use an A&A crank pinning tool. I can lend you one for the cost of shipping if you'd like. It even has a pin in there, all you need is a drill bit (that may even be in there)
red lock tight dosnt mean poop if you are TQing this bolt that much. I switched to the ARP bolt when I built my 416. if it keeps coming loose, something is not jiving.