Front Cradle
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Port Richey FL
Need Help Lowering the Front Cradle
Did a search but didn't get much.
Need to drop the cradle to put engine back in. Anyone have a write-up for it? Is there a way to keep the alignment correct?
Thanks for the help
tHE sQUIDMAN
Need to drop the cradle to put engine back in. Anyone have a write-up for it? Is there a way to keep the alignment correct?
Thanks for the help
tHE sQUIDMAN
Last edited by squidwards vert; Apr 6, 2009 at 10:01 AM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
Unbolt the upper a-arms at the top. That should keep you fairly OK on the alignment as the normal bolts for the alignment are on the bottom a-arm. Be careful to not loose or mix up any spacers (washers) on the studs. But, you more than likely will be off on the alignment. I pretty much assume I need a alignment if I drop either cradle or do any wrenching on the suspension.
I like to disconnect the shocks at the bottom, disconnect the steering at the crimp bolt. Unbolt the sway bar at the bushings.
The brake lines will become an issue if you drop too far.
Is the radiator out? If not, I'd take it out.
There are 4 bolts that attach the cradle to the frame, like 21mm. ONLY use hand tools, do NOT use power tools or you may create a huge project. I don't even want to think about what it would take to repair those studs.
Hopefully others will chime in, as I'm sure I missed something.
I like to disconnect the shocks at the bottom, disconnect the steering at the crimp bolt. Unbolt the sway bar at the bushings.
The brake lines will become an issue if you drop too far.
Is the radiator out? If not, I'd take it out.
There are 4 bolts that attach the cradle to the frame, like 21mm. ONLY use hand tools, do NOT use power tools or you may create a huge project. I don't even want to think about what it would take to repair those studs.
Hopefully others will chime in, as I'm sure I missed something.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Port Richey FL
This was WAY easier then I thought it was going to be.
4 bolts on each A-Arm
2 lower shock bolts
1 steering column bolt
4 Cradle bolts
5. Forgot to add I disconnected the calipers and secured them to the frame
Trans jack under cradle with 2x6 board perpendicular to the cradle
That was it. I used an open end 21 MM wrench on the front two cradle bolts so I didn't even need to disconnect the sway bar.
Had the motor in and positioned sitting on the mounts in less then five minutes.
4 bolts on each A-Arm
2 lower shock bolts
1 steering column bolt
4 Cradle bolts
5. Forgot to add I disconnected the calipers and secured them to the frame
Trans jack under cradle with 2x6 board perpendicular to the cradle
That was it. I used an open end 21 MM wrench on the front two cradle bolts so I didn't even need to disconnect the sway bar.
Had the motor in and positioned sitting on the mounts in less then five minutes.
Last edited by squidwards vert; Apr 12, 2009 at 01:27 PM. Reason: added step #5
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 3
From: Winter Park FL
This was WAY easier then I thought it was going to be.
4 bolts on each A-Arm
2 lower shock bolts
1 steering column bolt
4 Cradle bolts
Trans jack under cradle with 2x6 board perpendicular to the cradle
That was it. I used an open end 21 MM wrench on the front two cradle bolts so I didn't even need to disconnect the sway bar.
Had the motor in and positioned sitting on the mounts in less then five minutes.
4 bolts on each A-Arm
2 lower shock bolts
1 steering column bolt
4 Cradle bolts
Trans jack under cradle with 2x6 board perpendicular to the cradle
That was it. I used an open end 21 MM wrench on the front two cradle bolts so I didn't even need to disconnect the sway bar.
Had the motor in and positioned sitting on the mounts in less then five minutes.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Port Richey FL
all was out. Just a shell. 
Complete drive line rebuild, engine, (forged 383) trans (rebuilt stronger) and diff (4:10 and hardened output shafts).
just dropped in a 383 forged stroker. Waiting on the trans, should be Wednesday. Will measure air gap on the clutch for possible shims and then re-assemble.
Complete drive line rebuild, engine, (forged 383) trans (rebuilt stronger) and diff (4:10 and hardened output shafts).
just dropped in a 383 forged stroker. Waiting on the trans, should be Wednesday. Will measure air gap on the clutch for possible shims and then re-assemble.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
I like going in from the bottom, with the engine and trans I mean.
It was built that way, that is how its done in the manual, and there is more room to play with. Just drop the whole cradle, without the brake module. It is pretty much the same amount of work, and easier to control. I'd think its easier to align with the drive train as well, if you have the tunnel plate off it can drop pretty far to allow you to work on it.
But, I've only done it a couple of times and I'm still learning.
It was built that way, that is how its done in the manual, and there is more room to play with. Just drop the whole cradle, without the brake module. It is pretty much the same amount of work, and easier to control. I'd think its easier to align with the drive train as well, if you have the tunnel plate off it can drop pretty far to allow you to work on it.
But, I've only done it a couple of times and I'm still learning.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Port Richey FL
I was totally shocked how easy the motor went in. I busted out laughing thinking of my previous struggles with the cradle in place.
Live and learn
Last edited by squidwards vert; Apr 12, 2009 at 01:28 PM. Reason: redundant double negative.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh NC
The heads were not on the motor.
