Head/cam/intake Preparation
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Jesel Rocker Setup - Head/cam/intake Prep
Starting to prepare for my head/cam/intake install next week. Bear in mind this is my first attempt at anything more serious than suspension, brakes & exhaust! Thought I would start and check the Jesel Rockers on the TFS 215 heads off the car for geometry and any interferences.
Put the head on a bench and proceeded to install checking springs.
One spring installed
Both springs installed.
Then proceeded to install Jesel Rocker stand. Problem is the bolts are low head and my socket won't fit inside the machining to torque to 22 ft. lbs. to properly secure stand as shown below:
Guess I will have to try and find a thinwall socket or call Jesel in the morning.
I just laid the Jesel Rockers on the stand and at quick glance there were no interferences and they look really good!
Will keep you updated on my progress which will be slow and easy!!
Put the head on a bench and proceeded to install checking springs.
One spring installed
Both springs installed.
Then proceeded to install Jesel Rocker stand. Problem is the bolts are low head and my socket won't fit inside the machining to torque to 22 ft. lbs. to properly secure stand as shown below:
Guess I will have to try and find a thinwall socket or call Jesel in the morning.
I just laid the Jesel Rockers on the stand and at quick glance there were no interferences and they look really good!
Will keep you updated on my progress which will be slow and easy!!
Last edited by vsocks1; Apr 7, 2009 at 06:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Got a little further today since I am driving the car home tomorrow to start the project!
Checked for interferences with Jesels mounted up - looks good!
Checked the wipe pattern with no added shimming to see where it is at.
Used a dial indicator to check the cam lift and make sure nothing was binding and all was good in the travel....nice and smooth!
Let me know what you think!
Checked for interferences with Jesels mounted up - looks good!
Checked the wipe pattern with no added shimming to see where it is at.
Used a dial indicator to check the cam lift and make sure nothing was binding and all was good in the travel....nice and smooth!
Let me know what you think!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Try it with a little less blue or maybe a Sharpie. Exhaust looks biased to intake side, intake looks centered but wide however in the prior photo it doesn't look as wide. Might just be the amount of blue though as it will tend to smoosh. Are the intake and exhaust lift values the same?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Try it with a little less blue or maybe a Sharpie. Exhaust looks biased to intake side, intake looks centered but wide however in the prior photo it doesn't look as wide. Might just be the amount of blue though as it will tend to smoosh. Are the intake and exhaust lift values the same?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
It took me a few times to get them to wipe correctly (not the pattern but to take off material so I could see it properly). You may need to play with it a bit more to get it to wipe clean. You can try a Sharpie but if it dries too long it doesn't come off too well with check springs.
Should be a nice setup
Should be a nice setup
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Thanks Bob!
Going to start the project tomorrow...have to go in the morning and get the car out of storage. By the time I get it home, jack it up, drain fluids I won't get too much disassembled....maybe intake off.
Any initial tips? Will be following LS1howto minus the balance part!
Does the hood have to come off?
Going to start the project tomorrow...have to go in the morning and get the car out of storage. By the time I get it home, jack it up, drain fluids I won't get too much disassembled....maybe intake off.
Any initial tips? Will be following LS1howto minus the balance part!
Does the hood have to come off?
Last edited by vsocks1; Apr 7, 2009 at 09:07 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Gone
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St. Jude Donor '03
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
I read somewhere that you should drill a couple of holes(not thru hood!) to help alignment when putting back on. Necessary or not...or is there a better way to mark it?
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St. Jude Donor '03
You don't need to do that.
Take out the 2 rear bolts holding the hinge to the hood....they are the only ones adjustable (slotted holes).
Since your car is yellow, just take a black pen or fine sharpie, and trace the bolthole of the hinge onto the hood. The front two boltholes are round, and have very little slop. They merely act as a pivot point...all the height adjustment on the hinge-to-hood connection is done with the rear two bolts only.
Even ifyou don't mark it clearly, re-alignment is still very easy to dial in, since all the hinge-to-hood adjustment does is set the front height of the hood to match the bumper, headlight doors, and front edges of fenders.
Do not loosen or remove the hinges from the frame...this where most of the critical alignment of the hood takes place.
Mark the holes, pop the struts ( do NOT let the spring clips fly! you only need to pop out one side of the clip to release the strut socket from the hinge ball), remove the 4 bolts, lift hood from hinges, and then fold hinges flat to the frame to get them out of the way. With two people, it takes 5 mins, and the hood is very light.
Take out the 2 rear bolts holding the hinge to the hood....they are the only ones adjustable (slotted holes).
Since your car is yellow, just take a black pen or fine sharpie, and trace the bolthole of the hinge onto the hood. The front two boltholes are round, and have very little slop. They merely act as a pivot point...all the height adjustment on the hinge-to-hood connection is done with the rear two bolts only.
Even ifyou don't mark it clearly, re-alignment is still very easy to dial in, since all the hinge-to-hood adjustment does is set the front height of the hood to match the bumper, headlight doors, and front edges of fenders.
Do not loosen or remove the hinges from the frame...this where most of the critical alignment of the hood takes place.
Mark the holes, pop the struts ( do NOT let the spring clips fly! you only need to pop out one side of the clip to release the strut socket from the hinge ball), remove the 4 bolts, lift hood from hinges, and then fold hinges flat to the frame to get them out of the way. With two people, it takes 5 mins, and the hood is very light.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 749
Likes: 3
From: West Yarmouth MA.
Don't drill! Just outline hinges with a little masking tape on underside of hood. Heres a tip you should use since I just did this job: get some blue masking tape and mask the tops of your fenders before covering them with whatever fender cover/towel you are planning to use. It will help with the micro scratches the rubbing fender covers will eventually make. You will be doing a lot of leaning, hours of it. I wished I had thought of it when I did my heads and cam. Good luck and take your time.