Frozen bolt in front spring.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 804
Likes: 4
Frozen bolt in front spring.
I'm trying to lower front on stock bolts and the driver side bolt is frozen in place. I don't care about the bolt, just wont to get it out. Is there a metal thread insert molded in the spring or the thread are just molded into the fiberglass. I'm ready to take a large wrench to it and brake it if necessary but if thee is an insert I would not wont to spin it in the spring. Any ideas how to get that bolt out without trashing the spring?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 804
Likes: 4
I have not tried PB Blaster. This thing is really stuck! I don't care if the old bolts get damaged since I have new ones to put in. Heck I would cut them off flush with the bottom of the spring if I could only get the stud out. I have the wrench power to twist the bolt but I'm afraid there is a thread insert molded in the spring and if I was to spin it lose I could never get the remaining bolt out. I'm doing this for a friend and a new spring is not in his budget right now.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
There is a metal threaded insert inside the spring. If you try to gorilla the bolt (probably rusted in place), you're liable to break the insert from the spring. That will require a new spring.
There is a little trough on the top of the spring that surrounds the OD of the adjustment bolt. Fill that area with PB BLASTER. There's no need to spray the product on the bolt(s) from below the spring. Almost everyone who attempts to lower their cars find success with that specific product.
Allow the product to sit in the trough overnight. Check it again...if you see that the product has wicked through, below the spring, then the bolt(s) are lubricated. You might even be able to turn them by hand w/o need of the 10mm wrench. If it hasn't then it's likely the bolt(s) are rusted solid. You can repeat the process and maybe luck out. This happens to quite a few owners.
Also, use a metal putty knife and PB BLASTER to free the rubber bushing once the pressure has been relieved with a jack at the end of the spring. The bushings are most likely vulcanized to the control arm.
There is a little trough on the top of the spring that surrounds the OD of the adjustment bolt. Fill that area with PB BLASTER. There's no need to spray the product on the bolt(s) from below the spring. Almost everyone who attempts to lower their cars find success with that specific product.
Allow the product to sit in the trough overnight. Check it again...if you see that the product has wicked through, below the spring, then the bolt(s) are lubricated. You might even be able to turn them by hand w/o need of the 10mm wrench. If it hasn't then it's likely the bolt(s) are rusted solid. You can repeat the process and maybe luck out. This happens to quite a few owners.
Also, use a metal putty knife and PB BLASTER to free the rubber bushing once the pressure has been relieved with a jack at the end of the spring. The bushings are most likely vulcanized to the control arm.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Apr 11, 2009 at 03:12 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Soak it in PB Blaster or CREEP (by seafoam) over night. Once its had a good soak, try tightening and loosening in very small increments. If it moves at all your doing good. once it moves, keep soaking it and tightening and loosening it until you get it out. 
If the Penetrating oil fails to get it to break loose, last resort you can try this. I have seen people use it and it has worked. Heat the bolt up with a heat gun hot enough to melt candle wax. Once the bolt is hot, melt the wax in the threaded joint and then try the tightening loosening technique. The wax acts as a lubricant and easily penetrates the threads..
Good luck
BC
If the Penetrating oil fails to get it to break loose, last resort you can try this. I have seen people use it and it has worked. Heat the bolt up with a heat gun hot enough to melt candle wax. Once the bolt is hot, melt the wax in the threaded joint and then try the tightening loosening technique. The wax acts as a lubricant and easily penetrates the threads..
Good luck
BC
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 4,043
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From: Central NJ
Did you jack up the spring a little near the bolt??? I had to so that the tension was released a bit. After that the bolt should start to move tightly and then loosen up more as you make the turns. That's how it was for me......Tony
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
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From: South Western Ontario
Mine were bad. I cut them off even with the top of the spring and then turned them out with channel locks and replaced them. I did crank on them really hard without damaging the spring so you might be ok putting some force into it.
Peter
Peter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: In the pit, trying to love someone.
I had this same issue with my front spring. I took the spring out, and while I was removing the bolt the insert came out. I was able to get the bolt free then, and I wire wheeled it down, put some anti seize on it, and put the spring back in the car. The insert is larger on one end, and as long as the insert is put in correctly you will be fine. I have put several thousand miles on it like this with zero issues.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 804
Likes: 4
Well we soaked the c%^p out of it and still it won't budge
.
At this point I'm debating weather to take the spring out and just gorilla this thing out. I'm glad to hear that the insert install from one direction. In that case it should be no problem to epoxy it back in if it spines out. The previous owner had the front jacked up to within 2 threads from the top
. This thing makes 4X4s jealous 
. At very worst case I'm just gonna cut the thread about 1/2" from the bottom and fabricate some delrin pucks that will screw on the studs. That should tie him over till he can save up for a decent suspension mod. Thanks for all the input
.At this point I'm debating weather to take the spring out and just gorilla this thing out. I'm glad to hear that the insert install from one direction. In that case it should be no problem to epoxy it back in if it spines out. The previous owner had the front jacked up to within 2 threads from the top
. This thing makes 4X4s jealous . At very worst case I'm just gonna cut the thread about 1/2" from the bottom and fabricate some delrin pucks that will screw on the studs. That should tie him over till he can save up for a decent suspension mod. Thanks for all the input
