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You might want to pick up two new o-rings for the PS lines. Use a toothbrush to clean the top of the house where the lines connect to keep out dirt. You may also need to use vice grips to the the lines free. The 18mm flare will spread if they are too tight and round the edges. Take photo's. If you have a CLB, use some rope to lash the steering wheel straight so there are no accidental movements. Don't use the methods on LS1howto for removal or installation of the pulley itself. Pick up a new timing cover seal and replace it while in there. Follow GM procedures on re-installation to the "T".
No need to take the rack completely out of the engine bay. Just rotate / push it out the passenger's side wheel well far enough to get to the balancer. Use an ARP crank bolt.
No need to take the rack completely out of the engine bay. Just rotate / push it out the passenger's side wheel well far enough to get to the balancer. Use an ARP crank bolt.
I TOTALLY agree!!
I have NEVER totally removed my rack from the car and had my balancer out three times. If your able to disconnect the rack and slide the drivers side section of the rack out of the car a few inches,, you can push the passengers side FORWARD enough to service the damper 100% Sure,,you still have to TOTALLY disconnect the rack BUT,,,,,,you don't have to remove the rack from the car.
Check out the proof! The steering rack in this picture is NOT removed but just slid out of the drivers side enough to push the passengers side forward enough to service the damper.