two hands needed for reverse!
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
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From: Kansas City KS
two hands needed for reverse!
My 99 coupe has a B&M shifter and although the "throws" are short and positive (most of the time), I do have some problems. It seems as though I need to always be fairly aggressive in putting the car in gear especially down shifting to first. If I don't down shift to first with a firm hand I find it not really in gear and thus I proceed to embarass myself with a rather awful noise of grinding gears when taking off from the stop light! But the real test is getting this thing into reverse...It usually takes two hands and a deep breath!
It has always been an issue in the two years that I have owned the car. I recently had the clutch "master cylinder" replaced.
The shifter does not seem to be adjustable...Any clues and/or tips?
thanks,
bc
It has always been an issue in the two years that I have owned the car. I recently had the clutch "master cylinder" replaced.
The shifter does not seem to be adjustable...Any clues and/or tips?
thanks,
bc
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 28
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I can't speak for the B&M Shifter, only the stock one. It certainly sounds like an alignment issue though with your shifter. In the case of the stock one, you put it in neutral, then loosen the locking bolt holding onto the linkage. Again, the stock one, this is done with an alignment pin lowered into the proper position first, loosen the bolt, it aligns itself, tighten the bolt back up and pull the alignment pin back up and into its storage position. Now from what I saw in regards to that pin, the shifter was straight up and centered. You might want to do something similar but suggest you mark things first so you can get it back where it is, just in case.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
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When my Hurst was installed going into reverse was tough. The spring tension on the Hurst can be adjusted, and it made reverse much easier. I have no experience with the B&M, so I don't know if they can be adjusted.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
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From: Kansas City KS
Hmmmm...I guess it is good that I am not alone with my shifter troubles. Next time I have the car "in the air" I will take a look and see if there is any adjustment.
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
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From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I’m changing out my stock shifter this coming weekend for a late model ZO6 shifter and will have the stock shifter up for sale if you would like to go back to stock. With the longer throw getting into reverse would be easier. 
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Brookfield Wisconsin
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,080
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From: Houston TX
make sure the reverse lockout solenoid is operating. This can be bypassed by pushing with both hands to achieve reverse. The are a common problem on the t56 transmissions, could be that yours has been bad for a while.
Team Owner
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 22,830
Likes: 13
From: Columbus Ohio
CI 3-4, 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10
Unless you just have an urge to climb up into the car, in that case you're good to go.
Pull the console section, then pull the radio / shifter surround.
This might help you out
Last edited by Blue 92; Apr 15, 2009 at 11:02 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 19,304
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA
This mod is great for easing up the "into" and "out of" gear effort. I added a couple of .05-inch thick washers and it made a nice difference.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Kansas City KS
Update on my problem
OK so I put the three oil plug washers in place...no real difference. Then I figured what the heck and ordered an new B&M shifter.
I pulled out the old, after market shifter, and found that the shaft has been wearing on the "link" in the shifter base to the point that it has cut a notch!
So before I put the new B&M in I think that I will replace the shifter base and the "link" inside. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket, improved, replacement for the base/link?
I pulled out the old, after market shifter, and found that the shaft has been wearing on the "link" in the shifter base to the point that it has cut a notch!
So before I put the new B&M in I think that I will replace the shifter base and the "link" inside. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket, improved, replacement for the base/link?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 793
From: Longview Texas
OK so I put the three oil plug washers in place...no real difference. Then I figured what the heck and ordered an new B&M shifter.
I pulled out the old, after market shifter, and found that the shaft has been wearing on the "link" in the shifter base to the point that it has cut a notch!
So before I put the new B&M in I think that I will replace the shifter base and the "link" inside. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket, improved, replacement for the base/link?
I pulled out the old, after market shifter, and found that the shaft has been wearing on the "link" in the shifter base to the point that it has cut a notch!
So before I put the new B&M in I think that I will replace the shifter base and the "link" inside. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket, improved, replacement for the base/link?
Are you talking about the socket the shifter ball sets in, or the plastic part that snaps over the shifter ball?
I don't think you can buy the plastic insert separately, and you may have to buy the whole shifter to get a new base.
The previous owner did not leave out the plastic cap that fits over the bottom of the shifter shaft did they?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 7
From: LaPine Oregon
alignment
My 99 coupe has a B&M shifter and although the "throws" are short and positive (most of the time), I do have some problems. It seems as though I need to always be fairly aggressive in putting the car in gear especially down shifting to first. If I don't down shift to first with a firm hand I find it not really in gear and thus I proceed to embarass myself with a rather awful noise of grinding gears when taking off from the stop light! But the real test is getting this thing into reverse...It usually takes two hands and a deep breath!
It has always been an issue in the two years that I have owned the car. I recently had the clutch "master cylinder" replaced.
The shifter does not seem to be adjustable...Any clues and/or tips?
thanks,
bc
It has always been an issue in the two years that I have owned the car. I recently had the clutch "master cylinder" replaced.
The shifter does not seem to be adjustable...Any clues and/or tips?
thanks,
bc
Use the sloted shifter box's mounting holes to help with alignment.[IMG]
[/IMG]When swapping out the C5 shifter assy for a C6 Z06 assy ( which includes the shift box) always mark the boxes location with scribe marks as a point of reference. With the B&M this practice would be advisable as well with your OEM C5 shift box. Loosen the shift box Torx bolts and slide one way or the other and work it back till all gears engage to your satisfaction.
Also note that clutch engagement/ disengagement tolerance may also have a bearing if this problem occurred after R&R of hydrualic cylinder.
Another note of advise is to replace the ATF with Mobil 1 or Amsoil synthetic ATF if you haven't aready done so. So many times what appears to be a "bolt in " job needs more attention.
Last edited by dieseldave56; Jun 6, 2009 at 12:59 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
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From: Kansas City KS
thanks for the suggestions
TEXHAWKO:
The part that I called the "link" is the socket that you referred to and the plastic cap was in place on the other shifter...Now transferred to the new B&M.
The socket that you mentioned also shows wear which is why I am looking for a shifter base assembly. The stealerships only sell the complete shifter assembly!
DIESELDAVE 56:
Thanks for the heads-up on the adjustment and the fluid change suggestions.
It is a really good group of people you experienced Corvette owners are. Thank you for the information.
cheers
bc
The part that I called the "link" is the socket that you referred to and the plastic cap was in place on the other shifter...Now transferred to the new B&M.
The socket that you mentioned also shows wear which is why I am looking for a shifter base assembly. The stealerships only sell the complete shifter assembly!
DIESELDAVE 56:
Thanks for the heads-up on the adjustment and the fluid change suggestions.
It is a really good group of people you experienced Corvette owners are. Thank you for the information.
cheers
bc
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 55
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From: Kansas City KS
final update
The B&M shifter arrived. Since the "socket" in the shifter base showed wear (like the old shifter itself) I replaced the entire base also. Put everything back together and it is like a new 6-speed!
Apparently the wear on the old shifter and the wear on the socket caused my problems. Shifts through the gears smooth and the big WOW is that reverse is simple and smoooooth!
Thanks to everybody for the help!
Apparently the wear on the old shifter and the wear on the socket caused my problems. Shifts through the gears smooth and the big WOW is that reverse is simple and smoooooth!
Thanks to everybody for the help!
