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Drl disable???

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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
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Default Drl disable???

i have an 04 convertible and would like to turn the DRL off. i did a search and located a C6 thread dealing with the ability to disable the system via the regular light switch. obviously since the auto function isn't part of the switch on a C5, i would think the C6 method won't work on a C5, lol!

is there a fairly simple means of turning the DRL system off without having to re-wire the front end of the car, lol!!??

thanks for the help.

steve
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 05:08 PM
  #2  
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It is a fuse you need to pull #2 fuse or I found this info on this site.

"I got this from another member, so it's twice passed on.

I didn't do it this way, I pulled a fuse, I have to look where it is, but it also disabled the reverse lights when you unlock the car. Other than that no issue.

This way is more work, but the car functions more "normally"...

Here's how to do it. Info from another forum member.

No codes for me. Was the second thing I did three years and 17K ago.

My first question is exactly how did you go about defeating the DRL's ?

Here's how I did it.....got this from the forum:

Here is how to disable them permanently and it is reversable and does not affect the operation of any other lights. Cut and paste follows.
1. In the passenger footwell, lower the front carpet.
2. Remove the foot panel.
3. Locate the IPEC (Instument Panel Electrical Center) It looks like the fuse box next to the battery.
4. Remove the cover of the IPEC.
5. Turn it over and find the diagram of the components.
6. Locate relays 38 and 40. (38 controls the right DRL and 40 the left)
7. Pull each relay and carefully remove the cover.
8. Insert some type of insulator between the relay contacts (matchbook cover cardboard or the plastic from a coffee can lid works well) that you have cut to fit.
9. Replace relay cover, replace relay, replace IPEC cover, replace the footwell.
10. DONE!! "

And

"Take a look in your owners manual page 6-71. There's a diagram there that shows which one is the A2 fuse. Its the underhood panel."

And

"Look at the diagram on the fuse panel cover. Pull the number 2 fuse called "Approach"


The search feature works sometimes here.
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #3  
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I pulled the number 2 fuse and don't miss the reverse lights not coming on when I walk up to it. Non issue.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:58 AM
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I pulled the A2 fuse initially

Now I'm back in England, DRLs showing ambers are illegal so I did the relay mod that Nextime posted. As he said, that restores the approach light functions but you'll still have the DTCs
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:36 AM
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many thanks for the details and both suggestions. greatly appreciated. BTW, when i did a search on DRL, i never saw that post (there were loads of hits, but i must have overlooked that post (if in fact it even came up for me)).

steve
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by srs244
many thanks for the details and both suggestions. greatly appreciated. BTW, when i did a search on DRL, i never saw that post (there were loads of hits, but i must have overlooked that post (if in fact it even came up for me)).

steve
While I understand DeeGee's need for no DRL's, what is the advantage to them not being on.....other than the weight savings from the removed fuse..
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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DRL's are a pain to replace, they have been known to melt the housings. 2 good reasons for me!
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nextime
DRL's are a pain to replace, they have been known to melt the housings. 2 good reasons for me!
you got it! since there is no legal issue with it, the advantage of having them off at all times seems to be a no brainer in my opinion. i guess others might disagree and consider it not much of an issue (which it probably isn't), but it's just one less thing to deal with perhaps in the future.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by srs244
you got it! since there is no legal issue with it, the advantage of having them off at all times seems to be a no brainer in my opinion. i guess others might disagree and consider it not much of an issue (which it probably isn't), but it's just one less thing to deal with perhaps in the future.
I see...
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nextime
DRL's are a pain to replace, they have been known to melt the housings. 2 good reasons for me!
I have to say having never run DRLs I've never had a DRL bulb go out and my housings are strong as the day the General fitted them.

I've never been convinced of the safety value of DRLs. If the guy coming can't be seen because of poor weather conditions he should have his headlights on. In daylight I see the car before the DRLs. JMHO
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Didnt I post the exact same thing in post #2?

Originally Posted by ALLEGRO
This was my method of choice:

Here is how to disable them permanently and it is reversable and does not affect the operation of any other lights.

1. In the passenger footwell, lower the front carpet.
2. Remove the foot panel.
3. Locate the IPEC (Instument Panel Electrical Center) It looks like the fuse box next to the battery.
4. Remove the cover of the IPEC.
5. Turn it over and find the diagram of the components.
6. Locate relays 38 and 40. (38 controls the right DRL and 40 the left)
7. Pull each relay and carefully remove the cover.
8. Insert some type of insulator between the relay contacts (matchbook cover cardboard or the plastic from a coffee can lid works well) that you have cut to fit.
9. Replace relay cover, replace relay, replace IPEC cover, replace the footwell.
10. DONE!!
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #12  
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Who cares if you posted it in 2003, how many times does this guy need the exact same info posted in one thread? Dont need to confuse anybody here.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nextime
Who cares if you posted it in 2003, how many times does this guy need the exact same info posted in one thread? Dont need to confuse anybody here.
Be nice !!!!!
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 10:28 PM
  #14  
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Well with all of the quotes and posts on this topic you got your 2003 post up 3 times now!
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
While I understand DeeGee's need for no DRL's, what is the advantage to them not being on.....other than the weight savings from the removed fuse..
I can turn this the other way too. What's the advantage to having DRL's? Me, it's a preference. Don't like em. Don't like pork chops seeing me coming way before I get there. And if John Q public can't see a Torch Red Vette coming at them at the speed of sound then a couple of butt ugly yellow lights isn't going to save me. Heck most of the time they still see you and have to run a stop sign to get in front of you just to drive 5 or 10mph under the posted speed limit. Makes me wish GM had a rocket launcher option.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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To srs244,
It's been a while since I posted anything, been busy starting a small business But....

It's a little surprising that we develop solutions and everyone forgets what they are. I have an 04 that I bought new in August of 2003. I didn't like the DRL's either. So I put up a post much like yours and got many answers like the ones you have seen here. Although some of them will work I got some help from a forum member in Germany that provided a much better solution.

He posted the solution in Tech Tips and its probably still there. The old link was:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techtip...=273&TopicID=1

I tried to check it but it seems things have changed since the last time I logged in and a userid/password is required for Tech Tips, I can't get into it.

Well anyway this German fellow tells me he has a C5 that was built for the U.S. market and shipped to Europe but in Germany DRL's are not legal. Vette's built for the European market don't have them. So, GM provided him with a solution. There are two components on the internal fuse panel that serve the left and right DRL. You make up a small jumper and bridge these. The write up he did explains it and it's really pretty simple. I used solid 14 or 12 gauge unstranded wire to make the jumpers. You just strip about a half inch of insulation off each end and bend it into a horseshoe shape. Then it simply slips into the sockets on the blocks. It's very simple but I did it almost 5 years ago so I don't remember the details. Today it is still working reliably for me. If you can get to the tech tips it should still be out there. You can also do a search on my userid and find an old link where I explained it to someone back in 2007.

If you can't find it in Tech Tips maybe you can twist my arm enough to get me to look at my car and refresh my memory of how we did it.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #17  
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lemansblue04 please dump some of your PM box as it is full and won't accept any additional messages.

BTW, i was able to find the original post by our member in germany, and it is certainly an easy to follow and simple means to correct the "problem".

many thanks again.


steve

Last edited by srs244; Apr 30, 2009 at 05:17 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nextime
It is a fuse you need to pull #2 fuse or I found this info on this site.

"I got this from another member, so it's twice passed on.

I didn't do it this way, I pulled a fuse, I have to look where it is, but it also disabled the reverse lights when you unlock the car. Other than that no issue.

This way is more work, but the car functions more "normally"...

Here's how to do it. Info from another forum member.

No codes for me. Was the second thing I did three years and 17K ago.

My first question is exactly how did you go about defeating the DRL's ?

Here's how I did it.....got this from the forum:

Here is how to disable them permanently and it is reversable and does not affect the operation of any other lights. Cut and paste follows.
1. In the passenger footwell, lower the front carpet.
2. Remove the foot panel.
3. Locate the IPEC (Instument Panel Electrical Center) It looks like the fuse box next to the battery.
4. Remove the cover of the IPEC.
5. Turn it over and find the diagram of the components.
6. Locate relays 38 and 40. (38 controls the right DRL and 40 the left)
7. Pull each relay and carefully remove the cover.
8. Insert some type of insulator between the relay contacts (matchbook cover cardboard or the plastic from a coffee can lid works well) that you have cut to fit.
9. Replace relay cover, replace relay, replace IPEC cover, replace the footwell.
10. DONE!! "

And

"Take a look in your owners manual page 6-71. There's a diagram there that shows which one is the A2 fuse. Its the underhood panel."

And

"Look at the diagram on the fuse panel cover. Pull the number 2 fuse called "Approach"


The search feature works sometimes here.
Did you use a matchbook cover or plastic from a coffee can lid to isolate the contacts?
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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Never did the mod, just found the info here.
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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It not only kills the reverse lights on approach (unlock), but you also loose the taillight blink when locking with the fob. (Driving lights still blink up front on lock).
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