Degree my Cam?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 781
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo Grove IL
Degree my Cam?
I will be doing a head/cam swap next weekend. It has been suggested that I degree the cam. Just how necessary is it? It will be a small cam, about 224/228 .580 lift 114lsa.
Steve
Steve
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: MILTON FL
Cam degreeing
Do a search on that subject. That's a very common question and you are probably going to get 50% of the responses that say degree the cam. The other 50% will say dot to dot is fine.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: The Woodlands Texas
I did the dot-to-dot with my H/C package and have had zero issues. I have also done a cam degree set up and had no issues on another car. All depends on your disposition. Degreeing the cam helps if you are really **** about it. Otherwise, that 1 or 2 degrees you get in accuracy will most likely not pay off - dot to dot works just as well.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
That is exactly why people degree their cams, to make the cam timing more accurate.
Inaccuracy can occurr thru manufacturing errors ... is that hole in the gear really in the right place ??
However most of the time, it's close enough.
One reason you may want to degree a cam is if it's an overhead cam (In the head)(This is not what an LS1 engine has) or if your engine has had a lot of work done to it, by Changing how far the Cam is away from the Crank. For example, if you have an overhead cam and you deck the head and or block a good amount (as we would) you then move the cam closer to the crank and therefore rotate the cam slightly, this rotation can be corrected by degreeing the cam, as I did on my 22R Toyota.
If you can and if you have time, yea do it, other wise don't sweat it.
Inaccuracy can occurr thru manufacturing errors ... is that hole in the gear really in the right place ??
However most of the time, it's close enough.
One reason you may want to degree a cam is if it's an overhead cam (In the head)(This is not what an LS1 engine has) or if your engine has had a lot of work done to it, by Changing how far the Cam is away from the Crank. For example, if you have an overhead cam and you deck the head and or block a good amount (as we would) you then move the cam closer to the crank and therefore rotate the cam slightly, this rotation can be corrected by degreeing the cam, as I did on my 22R Toyota.
If you can and if you have time, yea do it, other wise don't sweat it.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Mount Laurel NJ
You should never install a cam without verifying TDC and cam centerline (int or ex). Here's why - camshafts are mass produced and even with todays technology, the machining can be off a degree or two. You can install the cam with the dot to dot method and not see a significant power loss. However, when you verify lobe center, you are blue printing the cam timing and you are capturing every bit of performance the grind has to offer.
I could go on and on, but I think you get the point.
Good luck....
I could go on and on, but I think you get the point.
Good luck....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
From: sterling ct
its hard to believe a CNC machine would be off by 1-2 degrees.....i look at the level of precision in cylinder heads, rods, pistons....etc...if they were off by 1-2 degrees due to erros in mass production...think of the outcome...
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
I would think they would be off 1-2 degrees either, but parts that should be scrapped do get thru ... too often ... and where there's one there's more, even on a CNC. CNC's a good, but they can make a lot of scrap in a short period of time. Let's just hope the inspector catches it and even if he does, lets just hope they still don't ship them anyways.
However I really think degreeing your cam is much more important in an Overhead Cam engine where there are more variables than in our pushrod engines, so I say again, YEA DO IT, if you can and if you have the time, if you don't then don't sweat it.
You should go out of your way to at least check it, I would.
I'm not being very decicive here.
If I were putting a cam in my C5 Corvette, LSX engine, YES, I would check the degreeing of my cam, I would have planned on it all along, I would make sure the cam gear I get CAN be degreed, but I would not be suprised if it were fine without doing anything to it.
However I really think degreeing your cam is much more important in an Overhead Cam engine where there are more variables than in our pushrod engines, so I say again, YEA DO IT, if you can and if you have the time, if you don't then don't sweat it.
You should go out of your way to at least check it, I would.
I'm not being very decicive here.
If I were putting a cam in my C5 Corvette, LSX engine, YES, I would check the degreeing of my cam, I would have planned on it all along, I would make sure the cam gear I get CAN be degreed, but I would not be suprised if it were fine without doing anything to it.
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Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
Cams are NEVER exactly what you ordered. They are usually close, but never exactly to spec.
Degreeing a cam is one way of verifying how close the piece of metal you actually have matches the part you specified.
Cam doctoring is another method of doing the same.
My cam for example...
Intake is .3* short on .050" duration
Exhaust is 1.1* more .050" duration
LSA is .4* more than it should be
ICL is .7*retarded from design spec
The reality is...that's close enough to not bother with an adjustable timing set...but without that knowledge, you're just dealing with the unknown.
If you're lucky, the cam you buy will be like mine and be only .7* off...if your not so lucky, maybe the wrong cam got put into the wrong box and it's 5* off...you will never know unless you verify it one way or the other.
Just helped a friend degree his a couple weeks ago, he had an adjustable timing set, and we had to retard it just less than 1* to set it at designed ICL. In the big picture, not a big deal, dot-to-dot on a std timing set would have worked just fine.
But at least we know for sure exactly what went into the engine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,291
Likes: 0
From: sterling ct
i had carmen degree my cam in since new heads were being put on the car...that being said i can understand if a company is regrinding an existing cam how an error can be made..but a company like comp cams using new cam blanks...i would love to hear from a rep from the company who could answer the question directly....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
i had carmen degree my cam in since new heads were being put on the car...that being said i can understand if a company is regrinding an existing cam how an error can be made..but a company like comp cams using new cam blanks...i would love to hear from a rep from the company who could answer the question directly....
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,411
Likes: 252
From: West of the Sabine, Texas
If you don't degree it, and the car doesn't run right after the install....how dumb are you going to feel for not checking it when it was apart? Or are you going to say "damn I wish I had taken the time then, because now I have to tear it down again just to be sure that's not it"...................
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,275
Likes: 226
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Next time you have your car in the shop go there and ask to see how the degree wheel looks on the motor 
aftermarket timing gears are fun to line up w/ the oil pump and front cover
dot to dot, my first H/C car was done this way, "Fartpipe" on the forum, ran 10.80's on the stock 100k bottom end w/ $1k TSP heads and MS3 cam
aftermarket timing gears are fun to line up w/ the oil pump and front cover
dot to dot, my first H/C car was done this way, "Fartpipe" on the forum, ran 10.80's on the stock 100k bottom end w/ $1k TSP heads and MS3 cam
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
And that's more than enough reason to do it.
Cams are NEVER exactly what you ordered. They are usually close, but never exactly to spec.
Degreeing a cam is one way of verifying how close the piece of metal you actually have matches the part you specified.
Cam doctoring is another method of doing the same.
My cam for example...
Intake is .3* short on .050" duration
Exhaust is 1.1* more .050" duration
LSA is .4* more than it should be
ICL is .7*retarded from design spec
The reality is...that's close enough to not bother with an adjustable timing set...but without that knowledge, you're just dealing with the unknown.
If you're lucky, the cam you buy will be like mine and be only .7* off...if your not so lucky, maybe the wrong cam got put into the wrong box and it's 5* off...you will never know unless you verify it one way or the other.
Just helped a friend degree his a couple weeks ago, he had an adjustable timing set, and we had to retard it just less than 1* to set it at designed ICL. In the big picture, not a big deal, dot-to-dot on a std timing set would have worked just fine.
But at least we know for sure exactly what went into the engine.
Cams are NEVER exactly what you ordered. They are usually close, but never exactly to spec.
Degreeing a cam is one way of verifying how close the piece of metal you actually have matches the part you specified.
Cam doctoring is another method of doing the same.
My cam for example...
Intake is .3* short on .050" duration
Exhaust is 1.1* more .050" duration
LSA is .4* more than it should be
ICL is .7*retarded from design spec
The reality is...that's close enough to not bother with an adjustable timing set...but without that knowledge, you're just dealing with the unknown.
If you're lucky, the cam you buy will be like mine and be only .7* off...if your not so lucky, maybe the wrong cam got put into the wrong box and it's 5* off...you will never know unless you verify it one way or the other.
Just helped a friend degree his a couple weeks ago, he had an adjustable timing set, and we had to retard it just less than 1* to set it at designed ICL. In the big picture, not a big deal, dot-to-dot on a std timing set would have worked just fine.
But at least we know for sure exactly what went into the engine.
But AGAIN, the degreeing of the cam actually does NOTHING but verify the cams lift and duration. I can see doing it with a custom grind MAYBE, but an off the shelf cam from a reputable manufacturer I would say is not worth the time, especially if you have no real way to fix a slight variation.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
In the eyes of a cam grinder, all cams are custom. Just because a tuner picked some specs they liked and chose to market and stock up on them, does not in any way make them more accurately ground.
Call Comp, tell them you'd like a custom cam made with 3724R/3724R XE-R lobes ground on a 114+4...or, call TSP and tell them you want a 228R cam.
Either way you will get the same exact thing, and quite frankly, Comp doesn't care either way.
In either case, YOU still have no idea what you're actually putting into your engine. Yes, you may have bought "x"...how do you know you didn't get "y"?
You bought a shiny new $400 piece of metal. When is the best time to find out if it's the correct one you ordered?
At the time of installation....or after you have the engine assembled, tuned, and dyno'd?
Your choice.
No one is saying you MUST degree your cam...some are just saying it's a good idea to do it, if for nothing more than to verify what you ordered is what you actually got.
Call Comp, tell them you'd like a custom cam made with 3724R/3724R XE-R lobes ground on a 114+4...or, call TSP and tell them you want a 228R cam.
Either way you will get the same exact thing, and quite frankly, Comp doesn't care either way.
In either case, YOU still have no idea what you're actually putting into your engine. Yes, you may have bought "x"...how do you know you didn't get "y"?
You bought a shiny new $400 piece of metal. When is the best time to find out if it's the correct one you ordered?
At the time of installation....or after you have the engine assembled, tuned, and dyno'd?
Your choice.
No one is saying you MUST degree your cam...some are just saying it's a good idea to do it, if for nothing more than to verify what you ordered is what you actually got.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
I really don't know if the lS1 cams are degree'd at the factory, but I would be SHOCKED if they are. On the other hand I would also be shocked if the ZR1 cams are NOT degree'd during assembly.
It's kinda like piston/bore selection matching, and other extra steps that are taken when time and money are not an object.
My friends and I have degree'd maybe 10 Comp cams over the years, and never found one we had to adjust (but I'm sure it can happen occasionally).
I guess I look at it as:
1. Hey, let's throw a mild Comp cam in my street machine this weekend and get 30 horses (we probably won't degree this one).
2. Hey, let's build a 700 HP, $10,000 engine over the winter, put a special mystery cam in it, and match race it for big bucks (yeah, we'll buy/borrow/steal the degree'ing equipment for sure).
DG
It's kinda like piston/bore selection matching, and other extra steps that are taken when time and money are not an object.
My friends and I have degree'd maybe 10 Comp cams over the years, and never found one we had to adjust (but I'm sure it can happen occasionally).
I guess I look at it as:
1. Hey, let's throw a mild Comp cam in my street machine this weekend and get 30 horses (we probably won't degree this one).
2. Hey, let's build a 700 HP, $10,000 engine over the winter, put a special mystery cam in it, and match race it for big bucks (yeah, we'll buy/borrow/steal the degree'ing equipment for sure).
DG
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
stand back that sucker is not going to last long.Degree'ing the cam is just part of the process.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 204
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
This is from Comp Cam....
Should you degree your new cam?
It isn’t absolutely necessary to degree the cam for the engine to run efficiently. COMP Cams® grinds most
of its High Energy, Magnum, and Xtreme Energy™ cams four degrees advanced. This positions the
camshaft for the best street performance. However, to assure maximum performance it is recommended to
degree the cam. The purpose of degreeing a camshaft is to correct the errors and tolerances in the machining
processes of the engine that can affect camshaft timing. COMP Cams® suggests the intake centerline
method as the most simple, quick, and efficient way to degree a new camshaft. Instructions for degreeing
can be found later in this booklet.
Now if you can do the following your very first time to perfection then do it...I just fear people will make more mistakes trying to degree a cam then they will with the simple dot to dot method.
An expierenced engine builder shoud degree a cam, not a weekend guy looking to do a cam swap for fun, it just doesn't make sense.
Just my 2 cents
Camshaft Degreeing Instructions
The purpose of degreeing a camshaft is to ensure that it is phased correctly with the crankshaft. Some
factors that may cause improper positioning are:
• Cam or crank gear marked incorrectly
• Incorrectly machined cam or crank gear keyways.
• Misindexed cam keyway or dowel pin.
• Improper machining of camshaft or crankshaft.
• Accumulation of machine tolerances
The important factor to remember is that camshaft position is extremely important for the engine to
operate at maximum efficiency. COMP Cams® offers all the equipment needed to properly degree in a
camshaft, which includes the following:
• Degree wheel
• Rigid pointer that can be attached to the block
• Dial indicator with enough range to measure full cam lift
• Magnetic or attachable base to affix the dial indicator
• Top Dead Center stop
• Solid lifter to fit the engine.
• A means to attach the degree wheel to the crankshaft.
Engines that have nonadjustable rocker arms will also require an adjustable pushrod. A camshaft
degreeing kit (part #4796) is available from COMP Cams® which has each of these in it.
Intake Centerline Method
There are several accepted ways to degree a camshaft. COMP Cams® suggests the intake centerline
method as the easiest and most accurate. This method of cam degreeing is very practical and
indifferent to design characteristics. It simply involves positioning the center, or point of maximum
lift, of the #1 intake lobe with Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. The intake centerline method still
requires accuracy to be correct, but it is somewhat forgiving. Once you have degreed a camshaft using
this method, you will be surprised at its ease. We also recommend positioning the dial indicator on the
#1 intake retainer because lift measurements will include any deflection that may occur in the pushrod
9
and rocker arm. This makes the degreeing process as accurate as possible in relation to what actually
goes on inside the engine.
Step 1: The camshaft and timing set have been installed. Make sure that the timing marks on both the
cam gear and crank gear are aligned properly per the cam installation instructions. Use chalk or
similar marker to better define the marks.
Step 2: For example, we have our cam card and it suggests we install the cam on 106 degree intake
centerline. Install all the rocker arms and pushrods in the engine as normal. On #1 intake lobe, install
the solid lifter in place of a hydraulic lifter. If a solid lifter or roller cam is being checked, use that
respective lifter. Adjust the #1 intake lash to exactly zero. Do not pre-load the lifter. Next, adjust the
#1 exhaust lash to zero. You should be able to turn both pushrods with your fingers easily.
Step 3: Attach the pointer to the block. Many people will make a pointer out of some sort of rigid, yet
manageable wire. A stiff coat hanger wire works well.
Step 4: Attach the degree wheel to the balancer and install the assembly on the crankshaft. There are
several ways to attach the degree wheel to the crankshaft. The crank may be rotated from either the
front or from the flywheel end. Obviously, if the engine is in the car, you must rotate from the front.
Remember, the greater the leverage, the smoother the crank rotation, thus more accuracy. Note: Never
use the starter to turn the engine while degreeing a cam.
Step 5: Before installing the piston stop, rotate the crankshaft to get the #1 piston in approximate TDC
position with both the intake and exhaust valves closed. This can be a rough guess, but it can save you
from making a mistake later. Adjust you pointer to zero or TDC on the degree wheel.
Step 6: Turn the crankshaft opposite the engine rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. This will lower
the position enough to allow the TDC stop to be installed in the spark plug hole. Screw in the piston
stop until it touches the piston. Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes
back up and touches the piston stop. Mark the degree wheel with a pen or pencil on the number the
pointer is on. Turn the engine in the other direction, same as engine rotation, until the piston comes
back up and touches the piston stop. Make a mark on the number the pointer is on.
Step 7: Remove the piston stop after marking the two points on you degree wheel. Rotate the
crankshaft to the midpoint of the two marks. This point is TDC for cylinder #1. Without rotating the
crankshaft, adjust the degree wheel to read 0 degrees at the pointer. You are now ready to locate the
intake lobe centerline relative to TDC. If you are not absolutely sure that your 0 degree mark is set at
TDC, repeat this procedure. This step by step is critical to proper cam alignment.
Step 8: Attach the dial indicator to the dial indicator mount. Position the dial indicator mount so the
tip will contact the retainer of the intake valve. It is important that the indicator plunger be parallel to
the valve stem. Any variance in the angle of the indicator will introduce geometric errors into the lift
readings.
Step 9: Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until you reach maximum lift. The dial
indicator will change direction at the point of maximum lift. At this point, set the dial to zero.
10
Step 10: Back the engine up (opposite normal rotation) until the indicator reads .100.” Next, turn the
engine forward in the normal direction of rotation until the dial indicator reads .050” before maximum
lift. Record the degree wheel reading.
Step 11: Continue to rotate the engine over in its normal direction of rotation until the indicator goes
past zero to .050” on the closing side of maximum lift. Again, record the degree wheel reading.
Step 12: Add the 2 numbers together and dived by 2. That number will be the location of maximum
lift of the intake lobe in relation to the crank and piston. This is the intake centerline. For example:
The first degree wheel reading was 96 degrees. The second reading was 116 degrees. These two
numbers (96 + 116) added together will be 212. 212 divided by 2 will equal 106. Your actual intake
centerline is 106 degrees. Reference back to your cam spec card and see what the recommended intake
centerline is.
In the event that your camshaft did not degree in as per manufacturers’ specs, it will be necessary to
either advance (move the cam ahead) or retard (move the cam back) the cam to meet the suggested
intake centerline. Depending on the engine application, there are several different ways for advancing
or retarding the camshaft. One common method is by use of a crank gear with multiple keyways-each
one being at a slightly different relationship to the gear teeth. A second method is to use offset
bushings that fit on the cam pin and in the cam gear. The offset will advance or retard the cam
depending on how the bushing is placed on the cam pin. Another method is by offset keys that fit into
the crank gear keyway. A more elaborate system uses an adjustable timing gear. Contact COMP
Cams® for the method best suited to your application.
Note: When degreeing a cam, remember to look at the degree wheel as a full 360 degrees no matter
how the degree wheel you are using is marked. Many degree wheels are marked in 90 or 180 degree
increments. On wheels that are marked in 90 degree increments, keep in mind that you must
continue to count the number of degrees on past 90 degrees. Be sure all readings are taken from
Top Dead Center.
Keep in mind that to advance the cam, you must lower the intake centerline. For example, if our cam
has a lobe separation of 110 degrees. Moving the centerline to 106 degrees advances the cam 4
degrees. If we change the centerline to 112 degrees, this would be 2 degrees retarded. We at COMP
Cams® hope that these instructions will be helpful in making your camshaft installation and degreeing
a successful experience. COMP Cams® produces a video entitled “The Proper Procedure to Install
and Degree a Camshaft.” This video covers all of the points discussed here and illustrates many other
helpful tips to achieve the maximum performance from your engine. If you wish to order this video, or
if you have any other questions concerning your cam change, please call our CAM HELP® line at 1-
800-999-0853. Our technical specialists are her to help you 7 AM to 8 PM (CST) Monday through
Friday.
Should you degree your new cam?
It isn’t absolutely necessary to degree the cam for the engine to run efficiently. COMP Cams® grinds most
of its High Energy, Magnum, and Xtreme Energy™ cams four degrees advanced. This positions the
camshaft for the best street performance. However, to assure maximum performance it is recommended to
degree the cam. The purpose of degreeing a camshaft is to correct the errors and tolerances in the machining
processes of the engine that can affect camshaft timing. COMP Cams® suggests the intake centerline
method as the most simple, quick, and efficient way to degree a new camshaft. Instructions for degreeing
can be found later in this booklet.
Now if you can do the following your very first time to perfection then do it...I just fear people will make more mistakes trying to degree a cam then they will with the simple dot to dot method.
An expierenced engine builder shoud degree a cam, not a weekend guy looking to do a cam swap for fun, it just doesn't make sense.
Just my 2 cents
Camshaft Degreeing Instructions
The purpose of degreeing a camshaft is to ensure that it is phased correctly with the crankshaft. Some
factors that may cause improper positioning are:
• Cam or crank gear marked incorrectly
• Incorrectly machined cam or crank gear keyways.
• Misindexed cam keyway or dowel pin.
• Improper machining of camshaft or crankshaft.
• Accumulation of machine tolerances
The important factor to remember is that camshaft position is extremely important for the engine to
operate at maximum efficiency. COMP Cams® offers all the equipment needed to properly degree in a
camshaft, which includes the following:
• Degree wheel
• Rigid pointer that can be attached to the block
• Dial indicator with enough range to measure full cam lift
• Magnetic or attachable base to affix the dial indicator
• Top Dead Center stop
• Solid lifter to fit the engine.
• A means to attach the degree wheel to the crankshaft.
Engines that have nonadjustable rocker arms will also require an adjustable pushrod. A camshaft
degreeing kit (part #4796) is available from COMP Cams® which has each of these in it.
Intake Centerline Method
There are several accepted ways to degree a camshaft. COMP Cams® suggests the intake centerline
method as the easiest and most accurate. This method of cam degreeing is very practical and
indifferent to design characteristics. It simply involves positioning the center, or point of maximum
lift, of the #1 intake lobe with Top Dead Center of the #1 piston. The intake centerline method still
requires accuracy to be correct, but it is somewhat forgiving. Once you have degreed a camshaft using
this method, you will be surprised at its ease. We also recommend positioning the dial indicator on the
#1 intake retainer because lift measurements will include any deflection that may occur in the pushrod
9
and rocker arm. This makes the degreeing process as accurate as possible in relation to what actually
goes on inside the engine.
Step 1: The camshaft and timing set have been installed. Make sure that the timing marks on both the
cam gear and crank gear are aligned properly per the cam installation instructions. Use chalk or
similar marker to better define the marks.
Step 2: For example, we have our cam card and it suggests we install the cam on 106 degree intake
centerline. Install all the rocker arms and pushrods in the engine as normal. On #1 intake lobe, install
the solid lifter in place of a hydraulic lifter. If a solid lifter or roller cam is being checked, use that
respective lifter. Adjust the #1 intake lash to exactly zero. Do not pre-load the lifter. Next, adjust the
#1 exhaust lash to zero. You should be able to turn both pushrods with your fingers easily.
Step 3: Attach the pointer to the block. Many people will make a pointer out of some sort of rigid, yet
manageable wire. A stiff coat hanger wire works well.
Step 4: Attach the degree wheel to the balancer and install the assembly on the crankshaft. There are
several ways to attach the degree wheel to the crankshaft. The crank may be rotated from either the
front or from the flywheel end. Obviously, if the engine is in the car, you must rotate from the front.
Remember, the greater the leverage, the smoother the crank rotation, thus more accuracy. Note: Never
use the starter to turn the engine while degreeing a cam.
Step 5: Before installing the piston stop, rotate the crankshaft to get the #1 piston in approximate TDC
position with both the intake and exhaust valves closed. This can be a rough guess, but it can save you
from making a mistake later. Adjust you pointer to zero or TDC on the degree wheel.
Step 6: Turn the crankshaft opposite the engine rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. This will lower
the position enough to allow the TDC stop to be installed in the spark plug hole. Screw in the piston
stop until it touches the piston. Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes
back up and touches the piston stop. Mark the degree wheel with a pen or pencil on the number the
pointer is on. Turn the engine in the other direction, same as engine rotation, until the piston comes
back up and touches the piston stop. Make a mark on the number the pointer is on.
Step 7: Remove the piston stop after marking the two points on you degree wheel. Rotate the
crankshaft to the midpoint of the two marks. This point is TDC for cylinder #1. Without rotating the
crankshaft, adjust the degree wheel to read 0 degrees at the pointer. You are now ready to locate the
intake lobe centerline relative to TDC. If you are not absolutely sure that your 0 degree mark is set at
TDC, repeat this procedure. This step by step is critical to proper cam alignment.
Step 8: Attach the dial indicator to the dial indicator mount. Position the dial indicator mount so the
tip will contact the retainer of the intake valve. It is important that the indicator plunger be parallel to
the valve stem. Any variance in the angle of the indicator will introduce geometric errors into the lift
readings.
Step 9: Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until you reach maximum lift. The dial
indicator will change direction at the point of maximum lift. At this point, set the dial to zero.
10
Step 10: Back the engine up (opposite normal rotation) until the indicator reads .100.” Next, turn the
engine forward in the normal direction of rotation until the dial indicator reads .050” before maximum
lift. Record the degree wheel reading.
Step 11: Continue to rotate the engine over in its normal direction of rotation until the indicator goes
past zero to .050” on the closing side of maximum lift. Again, record the degree wheel reading.
Step 12: Add the 2 numbers together and dived by 2. That number will be the location of maximum
lift of the intake lobe in relation to the crank and piston. This is the intake centerline. For example:
The first degree wheel reading was 96 degrees. The second reading was 116 degrees. These two
numbers (96 + 116) added together will be 212. 212 divided by 2 will equal 106. Your actual intake
centerline is 106 degrees. Reference back to your cam spec card and see what the recommended intake
centerline is.
In the event that your camshaft did not degree in as per manufacturers’ specs, it will be necessary to
either advance (move the cam ahead) or retard (move the cam back) the cam to meet the suggested
intake centerline. Depending on the engine application, there are several different ways for advancing
or retarding the camshaft. One common method is by use of a crank gear with multiple keyways-each
one being at a slightly different relationship to the gear teeth. A second method is to use offset
bushings that fit on the cam pin and in the cam gear. The offset will advance or retard the cam
depending on how the bushing is placed on the cam pin. Another method is by offset keys that fit into
the crank gear keyway. A more elaborate system uses an adjustable timing gear. Contact COMP
Cams® for the method best suited to your application.
Note: When degreeing a cam, remember to look at the degree wheel as a full 360 degrees no matter
how the degree wheel you are using is marked. Many degree wheels are marked in 90 or 180 degree
increments. On wheels that are marked in 90 degree increments, keep in mind that you must
continue to count the number of degrees on past 90 degrees. Be sure all readings are taken from
Top Dead Center.
Keep in mind that to advance the cam, you must lower the intake centerline. For example, if our cam
has a lobe separation of 110 degrees. Moving the centerline to 106 degrees advances the cam 4
degrees. If we change the centerline to 112 degrees, this would be 2 degrees retarded. We at COMP
Cams® hope that these instructions will be helpful in making your camshaft installation and degreeing
a successful experience. COMP Cams® produces a video entitled “The Proper Procedure to Install
and Degree a Camshaft.” This video covers all of the points discussed here and illustrates many other
helpful tips to achieve the maximum performance from your engine. If you wish to order this video, or
if you have any other questions concerning your cam change, please call our CAM HELP® line at 1-
800-999-0853. Our technical specialists are her to help you 7 AM to 8 PM (CST) Monday through
Friday.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 731
Likes: 9
From: Ivins, Utah
It may sound complcated but it's really not all that bad, but you do need the tools, most people don't have most of these, for example a degree wheel (the bigger the better) Mag base with travel dial indicator, etc.
Cam timing will also change over time, as the cam chain stretches, I try to plan for this as well, but that's just a guess really.
So like I say, do it if you can
Cam timing will also change over time, as the cam chain stretches, I try to plan for this as well, but that's just a guess really.
So like I say, do it if you can