I posted this about 5 days ago but, I have a 99 auto that the battery went low. After that I got the service column and pull key alarms. This happened once before and I only got the column lock alarm. And that went away and came back the other day along with the fuel shut off.
The car can only go 1 mph. I have had the recall and have the k harness in place. I removed it and still had the problem I ordered the CLB. Will this solve the problem of the car shutting off. I have read some posts where guys are saying it won't and then there are others that say it works.
Will the CLB solve the problem of the car cutting off.

 

Charge the battery and MAKE SURE it is 100 % good. Then make sure that the CL is working normally. Clear ALL the DTCs and then operate the car and see if any DTCs come back. List and report those.

BC

 

I can't operate the car, it shuts off at 1 mph. I also charged the battery to 12.25 volts.

 

The problem is being reported by a DTC! Read and Post the DTCs!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Bill I have the repair manuals and have checked the codes and most were history ones. There were one or two the were recent.
I was a certified GM mechanic back in the 80's and was ASE certified.

 

If you clear ALL the DTCs and some come back as HISTORY,,,,theres an issue. There are several very common issues that C5 have that are completely foreign to C4 platforms. If you list the codes that are persistently returning, it will allow people who have seen theses common problems many times to help you sort things out.

Ill tell you that, I have solved NUMEROUS problems that many ASE Corvette certified mechanics have failed miserably on and have done it over the INTERNET!. I'm not ragging on ASE cert people. Just that, not all are what there supposed to be or what there paid to be. The C5 platform is totally different than the 80's technology. The C6 crap is worse!

You have some great ASE skills but, this stuff is going to be foreign until you get some time on it.
Ive been solving C5 issues since 98 and I'm willing to share with you or any one else that request what I have learned.

Post your returning DTCs.

BC

 

Bill I appreciate you help and wasn't bragging about my backround. But I don't have any codes that are related to the fuel shutoff or steering column lock problem.

The battery went dead and the problems came up. All I wanted to know was if the CLB will solve my problem with the fuel shutoff. I have read from some guys that it has and some where it hasen't. Is it supposed to solve the problem.

 

There are two things that cause fuel shut off. One is the VATS system. Make sure that the resistor in the key is clean and working correctly. The column lock motor and relays have to be working correctly.

Do you hear the column lock motor operating when you turn the ignition on and off? If the theft deterrent system isn't working correctly, the CLB wont help.

Try cycling the the ignition several times and see if that helps. Also, low battery voltage can cause problems in this system. If the battery is good, I have seen numerous times where the ignition switch goes bad and one or more of the voltage outputs out of the switch is less than 12 VDC. A lot less!

For now, check the 12 VDC fuses to ground on all the the Fuses for the BCM. Make sure that when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, that there is the proper battery voltage on those fuses. If one or more are LOW, the relays for the Column Lock circuit and the column lock motor will NOT function correctly.

If the voltages are all correct and the grounds for the BCM are good, we will just have to dig a little deeper.

BC

 

I removed the k harness and rehooked up the connections and did not hear the acuator run.

Also I cleaned my keys with alcohol, both of them and no luck So I think the keys are fine, both won't go. Especially if one has very little use.

 

The column lock motor can be operated without the BCM. You will need to remove the knee bolster under the steering column and locate the column lock motor wiring harness. Its a small FOUR wire connector.

The Column Lock Bypass kit comes with a power cord that you plug into the lighter receptacle and the cord is connected to the column lock motor side of the connector. By doing so, it will cause the column lock motor to retract the bolt. Once you do that you plug the CLB in to the BCM side of the connector and then the BCM should be happy with the column lock circuitry logic conditions.

Knowing weather the Column Lock Motor works is necessary. If its in the wrong position (bolt out) the Column Lock will be sending the wrong logic to the BCM and that will cause the fuel cutoff issue your having.

See if you can retract the bolt by applying 12 VDC to the correct retract wires and get the CL switches in the correct position.

BC

 

If the bypass relay is working, I don't think you need a working actuator for the BCM to be satisfied.
At least one forum member has installed the GM Harness K relay and left the actuator disconnected, and the system still worked.
And of course, the aftermarket CLB relays only have one connector so the actuator obviously has no effect.

 

There are FOUR wires on the column lock motor assy.

Pins A, B, C, & D

Pin A & B are the FEED BACK signals to the BCM. Its basically just a switch that opens and closes when the bolt retracts or engages.

Pins C & D are the 12 VDC wires to the column Lock Motor that drives the bolt. The BCM has relays inside it that reverse the polarity of the 12 VDC signals on pins C & D to cause the bolt to retract or engage depending on what position the ignition switch is in. SO,,,,if that feed back switch isn't in the correct logic position,,,,,,,you NOT going to get fuel enable. This schematic is on 8-506 (in the 98 Shop manual)

BC

 

By the way,,, Instrument Panel Fuse Center, Fuse BCM-2 (mini fuse# 2 "10 amp" is the drive voltage for the column lock motor. Make sure that fuse is good and your getting the proper 12 VDC voltage on that fuse to ground.

BC

 

Steve

If you disconnect the four wire column lock motor assembly connector and find the light green wire on Pin- B,,,thats the steering column motor feed back signal.

You can ground or open that wire and change the logic in the BCM. Give that a try. Figure out what logic that switch in the CL is in currently (grounded or open ) and just reverse the logic.

If its grounded now, let it be open (disconnected) and try it. If its open, just ground it and see what it does.

BC

 

On the BMC i got a B2587 ansd a B2592, both having to do with the column lock.

I also checked my running voltage at the battery and it was 14.78.

 

Both those coded are drive A and Drive B "column Lock motor circuits. If the BCM isn't switching those relays or the drive voltages are not there, your never going to get fuel enable.

Reading battery voltage doesn't tell you if the modules in the vehicle are receiving the correct voltages. Each module gets TWO different 12 VDC power (B+ ) voltages. One is HOT at ALL TIMES and the other is Hot In Run and Start.

The "Hot In Run and Start" voltages comes from the ignition switch. There have Been NUMEROUS problems with these switches in that the contacts in the switch bet dirty and arced up and output much less than 12 VDC. Ive seen as low as 6-7 VDC. Unless you check, you may be chasing ghost for quite a while. Just find all the BCM 12 VDC fuses, BCM-2, BCM & ICP, BCM-2, BCM-1 Check all of these fuses to ground and make sure that there is at least battery voltage on each one. Make sure that the key is in the ON /Run position.

BC

 

I also got a p1626 h, u1096, 1064 and 1016. All the codes are history codes.

 

Your BCM is not happy. Now its telling you that you dont have the correct resistor in the key or fuel enable pass word.

Start by checking all the BCM basic operating conditions since all this centers around the BCM. Make sure that its CLEAN and DRY. Its getting all the correct voltages and has the proper grounds. Chech chassis grounds: G-104, G-202

G-104 is near the battery on a ground stud.

 

Maybe those codes came up because I pulled fuse 25 with the key on. None of these dics were from the bcm except the column ones.

It amazes me that 4 days ago the car was perfectly fine and then the battery went low and all of a sudden the grounds are bad. And the bcm is no good and all these others problem. Maybe it is just from the battery going low.


The original question I asked was if the clb will take care of the fuel cutoff. Which is happening because of the recall.

 

So heres where I stand.

The car had the recalls. It has the k harness.
The car will not go over 2 mph.
Checked all the fuses, all o.k.
Did all the fuse removal and bcm reset tricks.
Disconnected the battery and tried that. No luck with all of these.
I removed the k harness and rehookerd up the harness with out it. No change. Also the actuator did not make any noise in the column.
Oredered the CLB, hope this will work and from what I have read it should.


If it dosen't what is the next step.